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> Single carb problem, fuel to only one barrel
terrymason
post Dec 3 2006, 11:27 AM
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Could you guys take a quick look at this video of my carb:

http://drunkencrab.com/temp/carb.mpg

The barrel on the right is to the front of the car if it matters.

This is a single progressive carb (which I have no experiance with up till now). Should I be seeing fuel to both barrels, or is this working as it should? My car runs pretty poorly, and has no real power (I have to race the engine to take off).

Thanks guys!
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ejm
post Dec 3 2006, 11:44 AM
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Looks to be working correctly, the second barrel opens mechanically around 3/4 throttle. These carbs generally have a big off-idle flat spot that's worse in cooler weather. That may be why to have to race it to take off?

Had one of these carbs on my first 914, always wanted to give it the float test.
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terrymason
post Dec 3 2006, 11:51 AM
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OK, that makes sense. I think the air filter hasn't been cleaned in a couple of years, and it already seemed a little better when I took the old one off.

Thanks for the help.
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terrymason
post Dec 3 2006, 11:53 AM
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well, along the same lines - the electronic choke doesn't seem to be working. Is there a simple way to test that? Should the flaps move as I turn the key off and on?
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So.Cal.914
post Dec 3 2006, 11:55 AM
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Back in 82 I ran one of those set ups for about two months and it never

ran right. Its like pouring raw fuel into the cylinders. You really would be better

offf running two one barrels.
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terrymason
post Dec 3 2006, 12:01 PM
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QUOTE(So.Cal.914 @ Dec 3 2006, 09:55 AM) *

Back in 82 I ran one of those set ups for about two months and it never

ran right. Its like pouring raw fuel into the cylinders. You really would be better

offf running two one barrels.



I totally agree. I'm getting two dellorto carbs from a guy on this board, but it's going to be some time before I get them - and probably longer before I learn how to sync them.

The car idles great, and works fine under speed, but when the light turns green I really need to rev it up to 3k to gently pull out.

I think 50% of my problem may have been the air filter, and I've put about a can of carb cleaner down it - that may have helped.

I'd really like to get a good understanding of this carb, and how it works, in case I need to continue running this for a while.
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So.Cal.914
post Dec 3 2006, 12:15 PM
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Mine ran the best after a good tune up. What color are your plugs? Is it probably

running really fat at the low end, it's the nature of the beast from my experience.

Sorry I don't have better news for you.
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Flycut
post Dec 3 2006, 12:25 PM
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You really need to make sure the electric choke is working properly, Make sure your positive from the coil is hooked to the male connector at the front of the carb. I would also advance timing by ear, Meaning until you have detonation at hard throttle while driving and then back off timing until detonation is not present.
Make sure all the ports your not using on the carb are plugged up. What kind of dizzy are you running?
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ejm
post Dec 3 2006, 12:43 PM
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QUOTE
I would also advance timing by ear, Meaning until you have detonation at hard throttle while driving and then back off timing until detonation is not present


Good way to cook an engine..... just because you can't hear it does not mean it's good..... use a timing light



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Flycut
post Dec 3 2006, 01:00 PM
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QUOTE(ejm @ Dec 3 2006, 10:43 AM) *

QUOTE
I would also advance timing by ear, Meaning until you have detonation at hard throttle while driving and then back off timing until detonation is not present


Good way to cook an engine..... just because you can't hear it does not mean it's good..... use a timing light

I agree and disagree.....I will time my engine with a timing light and then push the advance beyond.....Always get a better running engine. I've been doing this for 20 years to various aircooled rides and have never cooked an engine. The 32/36 carb will never run well unless timing is maxed out! It will be obvious timing is to advanced when car has a hard time cranking when starting, When this occurs retard timing until engine will crank normally. Advance will be beyond the 27 degrees reccomended for injection timing. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/chowtime.gif) Try it you might like the way your car runs under 1500 RPM. There are book facts and then real world tried and true findings. IMO (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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terrymason
post Dec 3 2006, 01:21 PM
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QUOTE(Flycut @ Dec 3 2006, 10:25 AM) *

You really need to make sure the electric choke is working properly, Make sure your positive from the coil is hooked to the male connector at the front of the carb. I would also advance timing by ear, Meaning until you have detonation at hard throttle while driving and then back off timing until detonation is not present.
Make sure all the ports your not using on the carb are plugged up. What kind of dizzy are you running?



I have just started getting into the car, and have no idea what dizzy I have - is there an easy way to tell?

And I'm not really sure what you mean by detonation - I assume that the motor will make a different noise?
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So.Cal.914
post Dec 3 2006, 02:37 PM
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Detonation = pinging.
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Flycut
post Dec 3 2006, 05:11 PM
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Post a pic, (IMG:style_emoticons/default/bye1.gif) and or give us some numbers off the body of the distributor.
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SGB
post Dec 3 2006, 05:15 PM
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Have you changed the spark plugs? That can be a big proponent for combustion.
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Joe Bob
post Dec 3 2006, 05:20 PM
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That carb was designed for a PINTO...remember them? Explode on impact????

Give it the float test and get some duals....
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Jake Raby
post Dec 3 2006, 05:34 PM
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The best tool for working on these carbs is an 8 pound sledge hammer.

I take pride in crushing every one that I get the opportunity to interact with. Horrible, absolutely worthless!
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bd1308
post Dec 3 2006, 05:41 PM
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i thought about covering the runners with old cyrix chips, and then lighting them up with 5 volts of power to keep the runners warm.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)
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Flycut
post Dec 3 2006, 06:52 PM
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QUOTE(Jake Raby @ Dec 3 2006, 03:34 PM) *

The best tool for working on these carbs is an 8 pound sledge hammer.

I take pride in crushing every one that I get the opportunity to interact with. Horrible, absolutely worthless!

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) Engine will be a totally different animal with duals, And a mallory.
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PORobinSCHE
post Dec 3 2006, 07:44 PM
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QUOTE(Flycut @ Dec 3 2006, 02:00 PM) *

QUOTE(ejm @ Dec 3 2006, 10:43 AM) *

QUOTE
I would also advance timing by ear, Meaning until you have detonation at hard throttle while driving and then back off timing until detonation is not present


Good way to cook an engine..... just because you can't hear it does not mean it's good..... use a timing light

I agree and disagree.....I will time my engine with a timing light and then push the advance beyond.....Always get a better running engine. I've been doing this for 20 years to various aircooled rides and have never cooked an engine. The 32/36 carb will never run well unless timing is maxed out! It will be obvious timing is to advanced when car has a hard time cranking when starting, When this occurs retard timing until engine will crank normally. Advance will be beyond the 27 degrees reccomended for injection timing. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/chowtime.gif) Try it you might like the way your car runs under 1500 RPM. There are book facts and then real world tried and true findings. IMO (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

FLY, appx how far are you pushing the Dist past 27 degrees? 30-32?
i would do the same on my old 74 Vette. stock time it then advance till it pinged. after that back it off appx 3 deg on the timing wheel. turned out i was at 35 degrees . ran super on bottom and mid range. i didn't race it so never worried about fall off on the top.

my 02
Robin
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bd1308
post Dec 3 2006, 07:57 PM
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Hmm, I'm wondering what the HEAD temps are when you do this?

I have found that advancing timing leads to higher temps....
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