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> I bought my roll cage today, Autopower bolt-in
Randal
post Dec 8 2006, 12:28 PM
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QUOTE(trekkor @ Dec 7 2006, 10:09 PM) *

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)




Yay!


KT




Does it come with a side to side dash bar?

If not are you going to add one?
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grantsfo
post Dec 8 2006, 01:14 PM
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QUOTE(Randal @ Dec 8 2006, 10:28 AM) *

QUOTE(trekkor @ Dec 7 2006, 10:09 PM) *

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)




Yay!


KT




Does it come with a side to side dash bar?

If not are you going to add one?


Whats the thought on the side to side dash bar? I'm likely going to add door bars, but hadnt considered the dash bar.
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Trekkor
post Dec 8 2006, 01:16 PM
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It has no "knee bar". I will add one. Brad suggests 1" tube

This cage bolts to the top of the longs.

It is exactly the same as the one I have now that bolts to the top.
The one I have now had it's cage pieces ground off to make it just a roll bar.
It was an Autopower cage from another car before I bought it.


KT
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Trekkor
post Dec 8 2006, 01:27 PM
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Can I weld this directly to the Engman Long kit or do I need thicker plates that will be welded to the same Long kit?

I will not be bolting it in...Gonna be a full weld up (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)


KT
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Trekkor
post Dec 8 2006, 01:31 PM
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QUOTE
Whats the thought on the side to side dash bar?



I always thought it was to keep a V8 from coming through the dash on a front engined car...Hmmm (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)


KT
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Randal
post Dec 8 2006, 01:48 PM
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QUOTE(grantsfo @ Dec 8 2006, 11:14 AM) *

QUOTE(Randal @ Dec 8 2006, 10:28 AM) *

QUOTE(trekkor @ Dec 7 2006, 10:09 PM) *

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)




Yay!


KT




Does it come with a side to side dash bar?

If not are you going to add one?


Whats the thought on the side to side dash bar? I'm likely going to add door bars, but hadnt considered the dash bar.





Our resident engineers should pop up here, but to me without the dash bar you don't have complete continuity.

I'd also bet that the dash bar has a lot to do with eliminating flex, expecially in Trekkor's current configuration.
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jhadler
post Dec 8 2006, 02:38 PM
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Hey Trek,

What does that cage weigh in at??

-Josh2
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Brad Roberts
post Dec 8 2006, 05:17 PM
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REMOVE your front targa latches. You dont need them after the cage is installed.

Then.. removing the top becomes a NON issue.

I suggest removing the rear targa pad also prior to install.

This will give you move access to the rear latches.


B
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Mike T
post Dec 8 2006, 06:04 PM
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QUOTE(URY914 @ Dec 8 2006, 08:59 AM) *

[You know if I was to do it all over again I would use a hole saw and drill the longs and feed it thru and weld on the bottom and on the top of the longs.


and it would give you tie in points for your 5-link unequal length a=arm rear suspension. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

Mike T
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Crazyhippy
post Dec 8 2006, 06:16 PM
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the dash bar is quite helpful in side impacts (spin in front of someone). Even better would be some triangulation from the dash on one side to the floor on the other, but it makes it tough to get your feet to the pedals...

BJH
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Brett W
post Dec 8 2006, 07:55 PM
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QUOTE(914forme @ Dec 8 2006, 09:16 AM) *

QUOTE(Brett W @ Dec 8 2006, 10:52 AM) *

When you get it put in let me know if it fits as bad as the other bolt in cages I have seen.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) So is that why you are sellling the one in the Classifieds?



Sorta. My buddy has it in his car and he is too tall to fit in it without having his knees up around his ears. We are going to design a weld in cage that fits much better. I have a couple of customer cars that have Autopower cages and they fit awful. The Kirk cage is much better, but it is still a bolt in cage. I prefer to do weld in cages as I can fit them much closer to the body.
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ChrisFoley
post Dec 8 2006, 08:08 PM
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I don't recommend a knee bar in a cage that has the forward hoops aft of the dash. Positioning the bar below the steering column puts it too close to one's knees, and positioning it above the steering column obscures the gauges. When a roll cage is more fully fitted into the chassis so the forward hoops pass through the dash a cross bar can be positioned at an effective height without danger of impacting body parts.
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Trekkor
post Dec 8 2006, 08:24 PM
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QUOTE
What does that cage weigh in at??


I would guess about 100#'s (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)
I really don't know.

While it was assembled for that picture I shot, I could easily pick the whole thing up.


KT
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Trekkor
post Dec 8 2006, 08:30 PM
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I was thinking about the install today.

How would setting the bolt plates directly on top of the longs, running very long bolts all the way through and out the bottom and then using another bolt plate under the car?

Weld the plates to the car as well.

Input, please.


KT
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J P Stein
post Dec 8 2006, 08:38 PM
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Well....that's one way.
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J P Stein
post Dec 8 2006, 08:40 PM
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J P Stein
post Dec 8 2006, 08:42 PM
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here
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Randal
post Dec 8 2006, 08:44 PM
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QUOTE(trekkor @ Dec 8 2006, 06:30 PM) *

I was thinking about the install today.

How would setting the bolt plates directly on top of the longs, running very long bolts all the way through and out the bottom and then using another bolt plate under the car?

Weld the plates to the car as well.

Input, please.


KT




What you described Paul outlined in an earlier post, but Andy pointed out that your cage bolts directly to the floor.

I wonder if you could (tube) bend that baby outward so that you could bolt it to the longs?

Or it looks like you could section two pieces in to get it wider to fit the longs, but the question would be whether or not there would be enough room, given the angle, to fit.

Wish I was up there with a tape.
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J P Stein
post Dec 8 2006, 08:59 PM
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gone
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914forme
post Dec 8 2006, 08:59 PM
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I would prefer to see you add a plate to the side of the log, like on Andy's cage and other I have seen. That way the log is less likely to collapse. If you add a tube for the bolt ride in then it could be closer to being correct. What Paul was describing is the strongest way you can build the cage. The tube design, going through the logs. A little extra weight here could save your butt, when needed. Bolts by themselves will not work properly and if the log colapses while the cage is in stress, they will loosen and a lose cage does you no good.

BTW, the knee bars will be right there where you don't want it, at your knees. It is bad enough you will probably screw up your leg in a side impact in a teener, due to the shifter, with the knee bars placed below the steering column you run the risk of taking out both legs.
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