discussion on weight removal., where to start? |
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discussion on weight removal., where to start? |
grantsfo |
Dec 11 2006, 01:34 AM
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#21
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Arrrrhhhh! Group: Members Posts: 4,327 Joined: 16-March 03 Member No.: 433 Region Association: None |
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Chris Pincetich |
Dec 11 2006, 12:04 PM
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#22
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B-) Group: Members Posts: 2,082 Joined: 3-October 05 From: Point Reyes Station, CA Member No.: 4,907 Region Association: Northern California |
Stock seat (even your custom one) = 30+ lbs
Racing seat = 15-18lbs x2 = up to 15lbs off However, this could be expensive (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) If you do a dash bar in the cage, and tie it in right, you could gut most of the dash. Then you could build your own custom dash/gauge pods out of fiberglass or aluminum sheets. One of those pics looked like the cage dash bar was the mounting point for the gauge pods (?). (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) |
Randal |
Dec 11 2006, 12:18 PM
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#23
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 4,446 Joined: 29-May 03 From: Los Altos, CA Member No.: 750 |
Stock seat (even your custom one) = 30+ lbs Racing seat = 15-18lbs x2 = up to 15lbs off However, this could be expensive (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) If you do a dash bar in the cage, and tie it in right, you could gut most of the dash. Then you could build your own custom dash/gauge pods out of fiberglass or aluminum sheets. One of those pics looked like the cage dash bar was the mounting point for the gauge pods (?). (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) If it was my picture, then it is the down tube thad has the mounting point for a set of 3 gauges. Actually we are going to move that mounting as we decided it wasn't the best place with all the hand action going on. |
campbellcj |
Dec 11 2006, 01:09 PM
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#24
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I can't Re Member Group: Members Posts: 4,543 Joined: 26-December 02 From: Agoura, CA Member No.: 21 Region Association: Southern California |
Good points about the dash and glovebox. I have to keep a stock "appearing" dash for my POC class, but I interpret that to mean it just has to resemble stock, not actually be 100% stock.
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nine14cats |
Dec 11 2006, 05:24 PM
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#25
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Bill Pickering -- 914-6 GT aka....Leeloo Group: Members Posts: 2,618 Joined: 10-February 03 From: Campbell, CA Member No.: 287 Region Association: None |
Hi Trekkor,
My vote is for you to turn to the dark side by keeping all the windows/glass for driving on the street (since that's what you want to do and why not?...you get to play with your car more often than I do with a trailer queen!). Since it's power to weight and you're already decently light, I'd save up and put in a bigger motor. Base it on a 3.0 liter case, either 3.0 or short stroke 3.2. I've got a full quote from Supertec in SoCal that does nice motors for the vintage air cooled crowd. If the Beast gets a retro motor versus a newer one this would be one option. And this is for a motor with no core, just order and have it delivered. And since you have excellent hound dog skills, I'm betting you could find a 3.0 liter or equivalent type motor for a price you would be happy with. You could offset some of your new motor by selling your old motor. And with 275 reliable HP you will be under 2:10's at Thill. Even on 205's, so you don't need to hassle with flares, although Bontempi pieces like I had are decently priced and you could then fit some meats under there. Your MSX 901 should work fine with this type of motor. And you can still drive on the street and you don't lose your windows. Lighter is faster, but you're pretty light now. Do the math on a bigger motor minus the sale of your existing motor compared to the cost of going f/g, gutting, etc. The motor will be more expensive up front probably, but I bet it's closer in cost than you think. And in the straights you can go 130MPH+, which really helps make up for any missed apex's.... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) Let me know if you want to see the quote on the motor. You'll see the parts involved and then can go looking for a good deal on a used one. And don't worry about what class the motor throws you in. With any weight mods or an engine mod you will go up in class same as me (I'm maxed out in points save for 5, which is worth "chipping" the engine. I don't want to do that yet until I decide what I'm going to do). I'm sure we can find a third driver to call our own class with and you and I and the third guy can go run together. If we bump up into TT7 we run against guys turning 2:05's. Tough to do with little put puts. Hey Greg Braun (race914)...what are you turning at THill CCW? I bet we are all close together in time and since you're TT5 where you go up against Turbo's and the like, why don't you join us and we start our own class? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) All we need is 3 people. We'd have a 914-4, a 914-6 and a Boxster. Anyone else want in? Bill P. |
Trekkor |
Dec 11 2006, 05:55 PM
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#26
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I do things... Group: Members Posts: 7,809 Joined: 2-December 03 From: Napa, Ca Member No.: 1,413 Region Association: Northern California |
It is all so tempting. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)
I really liked the fact that trailering home with the threat of rain was OK as I had the windows rolled up. An enclosed trailer...Hmmm. My other option is to build a higher HP 2.0 and only take a 30pt hit due to increasing compression ratio above 1.0 over stock ( 10.5:1 ) I could quite possibly end up with 40 more hp and not move up a class. the big motor does sound good, though. this side is darker than I realized. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/vampire.gif) KT |
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