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> Suggestions needed: Stripped Cone Screw
stepuptotheMike
post Dec 31 2006, 04:02 PM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) The instructions said "don't strip the cone screw".... well.... I didn't do it.... it was already stripped for me.

Now... I have a set of screw extractors that I was going to try rather than actually trying to drill out the screw. The instructions from the bird said that it was pretty darn hard to drill the thing out without screwing up the shift rod.

Before I go ripping into this thing, I wanted to see if anybody had any suggestions...

Thanks in advance and Happy New Year!

-Mike
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736conver
post Dec 31 2006, 04:06 PM
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QUOTE(stepuptotheMike @ Dec 31 2006, 04:02 PM) *

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) The instructions said "don't strip the cone screw".... well.... I didn't do it.... it was already stripped for me.

Now... I have a set of screw extractors that I was going to try rather than actually trying to drill out the screw. The instructions from the bird said that it was pretty darn hard to drill the thing out without screwing up the shift rod.

Before I go ripping into this thing, I wanted to see if anybody had any suggestions...

Thanks in advance and Happy New Year!

-Mike

Heres something I did once. It work good.
Stick some jbweld onto the end of a allen wrench, set it into the screw and let it set-up, then unscrew it.
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davep
post Dec 31 2006, 04:07 PM
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try a reverse twist drill. often you need to core it to give the extractor something to bite on. with luck, the bit will grab, and it will come out.
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McMark
post Dec 31 2006, 04:13 PM
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And once you do get it out, don't use red loctite to put it in. Blue loctite is okay, but new cone screws are best. I don't know if loctite, was what caused it, but this is just a general tip when working with the cone screws.
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stepuptotheMike
post Dec 31 2006, 04:16 PM
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Thanks guys..... I think I'll try the JB weld first and then drill/extract if I have to.

I'll keep the loctite in mind.... but it will be quite a while before any of this gets reinstalled as I'll be in the land of body work.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif)

Thanks,

Mike
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ws91420
post Dec 31 2006, 04:18 PM
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Ask Dr. Evil about the custom cone screw the PO did on my car.

New cone screws are a good thing.

That reminds me I need to order some so I will have them on hand.
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stepuptotheMike
post Jan 1 2007, 07:13 PM
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OK... now this thing is pissing me off.... So last night I JB welded an old hex key to the cone screw. Let that sit all night and all day today.

So I crawl under tonight and give it a twirl and the jbweld cracks off. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/ar15.gif)

So then I figure well what the hell and I get out my screw extractors. Match up the right size and give it a tap in there. I start turning on the thing and think I'm making progress when....... SNAP.... there goes the screw extractor. It frigging broke off in the damn cone screw (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

So... should I:

1) just drill the damn thing out and try not to screw up the shift rod.
2) drill it out and don't worry too much about screwing up the shft rod as it can be replaced.
3) try and find a puller to push out the pin/bushing just ahead of the cone screw and fiddle with the cone screw extraction on the work bench.
4) try the JBweld one more time with a bit more

Thoughts?

Thanks,

Mike
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r_towle
post Jan 1 2007, 07:17 PM
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My first question, before I suggest my ideas...

Why are you taking it out?

Rich
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McMark
post Jan 1 2007, 07:20 PM
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You've had exactly the same experience I've had with screw extractors. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) And the worse news..... you cannot drill them. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif) They are too hard and you will end up screwing up the joint on the shift rod.

Easiest answer is to look for a new shift rod. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) You can disassemble the joint (push the center pin out) and then take the two shift rods out and have the screw and extractor taken out with an EDM.

No good news in this situation. Sorry.
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r_towle
post Jan 1 2007, 07:26 PM
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do you have a welder?
you can tack a lever to the end and use that to twist it.

Or, you can get a drill bit from an industrial supply store that will drill out the extractor.

You can take off the engine bar, and pull it and all the shift rods out together..

Rich
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McMark
post Jan 1 2007, 07:29 PM
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IIRC, welding tool steel is not easy either. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)
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r_towle
post Jan 1 2007, 07:32 PM
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mark, you are really in a pessemistic mood tonight.

It can be done, not fun over your head though.

R
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McMark
post Jan 1 2007, 07:40 PM
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Heheheh, sorry. YOU CAN DO IT!!!

(IMG:http://myspacecomedy.com/images/funny/you-can-do-it.jpg)
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nebreitling
post Jan 1 2007, 07:48 PM
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drill it with a reverse bit. with any luck, it'll bite and come out. if not, then just try not to fuch it up too much. wear safety glasses while doing this (ask me how i know).

if you do mess it up, then just weld it up and re-drill it. use new screws, use 'em dry.
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r_towle
post Jan 1 2007, 07:49 PM
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much better...

Now
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/clap.gif)
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stepuptotheMike
post Jan 1 2007, 07:50 PM
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Thanks guys.

I'm taking it out because I am taking the car down to the tub so that I can start doing all the rust work. It'll be quite a while before any of this goes back into the car, so I should have plenty of time to find a new one.

Can I disconnect the shift linkage from within the cabin and then pull the whole thing back through the fire wall and engine bar?

It was pretty much just the tip of the extractor that broke off, so I might be able to pick that out..... I just didn't try at the time because I was a little too pissed off.

I don't have a welder as of yet so that isn't an option for me at the moment.

Mike
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r_towle
post Jan 1 2007, 07:54 PM
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well then
You can disconnect the bar from the shifter, but you cant fit the joint (with the screw) through the engine bar....thus the problem.

If you support the motor from above...you can remove the engine bar and take it off the shifter rod..

I would say, if it was me...
Get a sawzall (one key tool for what you are planning in the future)
and cut the shifter bar BEHIND the joint...away from the firewall.

The short bar in the car seems to be harder to find than the long bar out back..

Rich
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