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> The Official 914 World 3 Rotor 914 Build Thread, Otherwise known as round and round we go......
soloracer
post Jan 7 2007, 07:22 PM
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Mueller: I don't know how much the bare 20b engine weighs. I think we should weigh it before tearing it apart for the peripheral port and rebuild. Did you notice that on the plastic LS1 block you can bolt on all the pieces you normally would (ie: heads, headers, etc.) It makes life a lot easier for Paul when trying to fit that big chunk of aluminum in tight places.

Dr. Roger: Thanks for the link! I already bought the Patrick Motorsports shift linkage to go with my James West Rennshifter. I'll have to surf their website more to see what other goodies I might need.

To anyone out there: One thing that was brought up was that the oil cooler I bought may not work correctly with a 915 transmission that has a flipped ring and pinion. Does anyone here have any insight on this? Will the cooler work or did I just buy a nice piece of garage art?
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smrz914
post Jan 9 2007, 12:34 AM
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My rear breaks look really similar but i still haven't found a way to make the e-break work. any thoughts on that?
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soloracer
post Jan 16 2007, 12:48 PM
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I found 4 peripheral port 20b videos on youtube. The first one in the series is:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AbwrQ2f-kLg...ted&search=

The other 4 are listed on the right side when you watch this video. By the end of the 4th video I got wood.

If Max can get my 914 to sound anything like that I will be ecstatic.
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turbo914v8
post Jan 19 2007, 11:26 PM
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Before you put the 20B back together you should investigate 3MM apex seals.
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soloracer
post Feb 4 2007, 01:06 AM
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QUOTE(turbo914v8 @ Jan 19 2007, 10:26 PM) *

Before you put the 20B back together you should investigate 3MM apex seals.



I am very familiar with 3mm apex seals and I can say without a doubt they are an absolute waste of time. They are only used by guys looking to reuse old parts that are worn out. Sure they give you the "they are stronger" B.S. but in fact all they are doing is peddling old parts. The 2mm apex seals are lighter, don't chatter, just as strong and seal better. There is no good reason to use 3mm seals. Pro shops in Japan such as Revolution (who build the 20b peripheral port in the RE Amemiya GT car) and KKM all use 2mm seals. Mazda did away with 3mm seals in the early 80's and so should the rest of us. Sorry for the rant, I know you mean well, it's just that 3mm seals are a pet peeve of mine because I fell for the B.S. once and never again.
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soloracer
post Feb 4 2007, 01:08 AM
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On another note I am told that the engine mount is nearly completed. I will be sure to post pictures of how it looks when it's done.
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Rotary'14
post Feb 4 2007, 06:45 PM
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Just found your thread! I was on anoter site! my lazy @ss is back,,,, your build is getting me fired up again! If you don't want to cut your firewall,,, you might want to consider an electric water pump. stock BMWs come with them now,, all ECU controlled, and very sweet. There are others out there. just FYI. I like your project!!! More power too ya.

-Rob
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ArtechnikA
post Feb 4 2007, 06:48 PM
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QUOTE(soloracer @ Jan 7 2007, 08:22 PM) *

One thing that was brought up was that the oil cooler I bought may not work correctly with a 915 transmission that has a flipped ring and pinion. Does anyone here have any insight on this? Will the cooler work or did I just buy a nice piece of garage art?


the pump gears are driven from a ring gear on the outside of the diff carrier. so - if the diff is flipped, it's on the wrong side to work the pump.

I have just such a transmission (915/67) for my 911...

You could (possibly...) flip (invert) the transmission but then you have to work out a whole bunch of internal plumbing 'cause the sump would then be well above the pickup.
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soloracer
post Feb 4 2007, 07:06 PM
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ArtechniKa: I have come to the same realization. So if you know anyone who wants to buy a 915 Euro cooler let me know. I paid $750 US for it and am taking offers. Thanks.
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Heeltoe914
post Feb 5 2007, 11:23 AM
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QUOTE(soloracer @ Feb 4 2007, 05:06 PM) *

ArtechniKa: I have come to the same realization. So if you know anyone who wants to buy a 915 Euro cooler let me know. I paid $750 US for it and am taking offers. Thanks.



Do I see a cooler on the ground and if so who makes it? Is it a -12AN or what?


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Rotary'14
post Feb 5 2007, 12:10 PM
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QUOTE(Heeltoe914 @ Feb 5 2007, 09:23 AM) *

QUOTE(soloracer @ Feb 4 2007, 05:06 PM) *

ArtechniKa: I have come to the same realization. So if you know anyone who wants to buy a 915 Euro cooler let me know. I paid $750 US for it and am taking offers. Thanks.



Do I see a cooler on the ground and if so who makes it? Is it a -12AN or what?



I do believe that's an intercooler,, but I could be wrong. What ya say Solo?

-Rob
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ArtechnikA
post Feb 6 2007, 07:03 AM
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For those curious about the 915/67 Euro trans cooler stuff, here's the picture...


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army dude
post Feb 6 2007, 07:44 AM
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First off... You go!!! I will be watching this intently!! I will be putting the same body on my car when I get home and probably will be buggin ya for some extra photos.

I have a v8 in mine and I have a Meziere electric waterpump with one inlet and two outlets that I will use. It is the schiznit fo sho!! Part number 680wp337. I will have it mounted behind the driver and they say it is good for about 3000 hours before a rebuild in necessary but they have been having greater performance with them lately. They also say they have a 48 hr turnaround on rebuilding it. I think I can manage with that. It flows 55gph and having that with my electric fans will run for several minutes after shutdown to cool her off.

I also plan on some reinforcing in the car like your po did with the kits for the longs. I also want to cage it and supports in front as well.I am sure it is overkill but I will wait to hear what the other v8 gurus think.

Ok, now for the stupid question. I noticed your engine mount bar with a "hole" in it? Obviously for the shifter bar but WTF?? Mine doesn't have that mount bar and I am curious what gives? I plan on getting a new bar and adding a support bar to the rising bar but maybe I have the wrong bar in mine to begin with. Ideas on that??

Ian in Iraq...Again
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soloracer
post Feb 6 2007, 11:10 PM
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Ian: Thanks for the nice response. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) The engine mount bar is a factory bar for a side shifter. If you are going with a side shifting transmission you will need one - I don't think it necessary for the stock tailshifter. I bet if you post here that you are looking for one someone will respond. I don't think they are extremely scarce as they show up on e-bay from time to time.

I considered the electric water pump but I like the reliability of the stock one. So for now I'm sticking with the good old mechanical pump.

As far as the reinforcing I think that there is a good thread here covering that topic and that the trailing arm ears are where the car needs it most. I'm glad the previous owner did what did to my car but from reading here I'm not sure that everything was extremely beneficial. If you are starting from scratch do a little search on this forum for advice as there is some good information.

If you are looking for more pictures of the body kit on my car let me know what you are particularily interested in and I will see what I can do.

I had two cousins in Iraq and all I can say is do your time and get the hell home as soon as you can. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)



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soloracer
post Feb 6 2007, 11:13 PM
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QUOTE(Rotary'14 @ Feb 5 2007, 11:10 AM) *

QUOTE(Heeltoe914 @ Feb 5 2007, 09:23 AM) *

QUOTE(soloracer @ Feb 4 2007, 05:06 PM) *

ArtechniKa: I have come to the same realization. So if you know anyone who wants to buy a 915 Euro cooler let me know. I paid $750 US for it and am taking offers. Thanks.



Do I see a cooler on the ground and if so who makes it? Is it a -12AN or what?



I do believe that's an intercooler,, but I could be wrong. What ya say Solo?

-Rob


That is correct. It's a stock 944 Turbo intercooler with modified end tanks. I had it laying in the garage and placed it there to give the rear wheels some scale.
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soloracer
post Feb 26 2007, 01:42 AM
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Just a little update here. The engine mount is done and ready to go to painting and powdercoating along with the mounting bar. My builder did a really good job in building the mount in my opinion. It sits tight on the engine and uses existing bolt holes - in fact on the exhaust side it uses the engine mount holes. There is one hole that we have to tap but that should be minor. The mount bolts to the engine and then to the bar which in turn uses the factory mounting points. Feel free to comment with your thoughts guys. Here are some pictures:



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Rotary'14
post Feb 26 2007, 05:30 PM
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Engine mount looks sweet! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)

Keep the pics coming.

-Rob
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djfamousa
post Mar 2 2007, 10:26 PM
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QUOTE
I am very familiar with 3mm apex seals and I can say without a doubt they are an absolute waste of time. They are only used by guys looking to reuse old parts that are worn out. Sure they give you the "they are stronger" B.S. but in fact all they are doing is peddling old parts. The 2mm apex seals are lighter, don't chatter, just as strong and seal better. There is no good reason to use 3mm seals. Pro shops in Japan such as Revolution (who build the 20b peripheral port in the RE Amemiya GT car) and KKM all use 2mm seals. Mazda did away with 3mm seals in the early 80's and so should the rest of us. Sorry for the rant, I know you mean well, it's just that 3mm seals are a pet peeve of mine because I fell for the B.S. once and never again.


Yep, I would have to agree. My last car was a 3rd gen twin turbo with all the goodies, and I also recommend to stay away from the 3mm seals for all of the above reasons and more! Just trust me =P ooooh ya! NOW TIME FOR 914 ACTION!!!
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soloracer
post Mar 8 2007, 12:43 AM
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Just a quick update. The engine will be going to the rebuilder in the next week or so. I also spoke to a cage builder and if all goes well we will come up with a game plan for the cage. The though currently is to do a 4 point in the interior with bars going through the back window to the rear towers and to the front towers - although I'm not sure of the routing to the front towers. There will be door bars but lower than the edge of the race seats. A bar will run along the floor on both drivers and passenger side (front to rear) and will be stitched to the longitudinals to add rigidity. At the firewall a typical diagonal bar and horizontal bar at the floor and just below shoulder height will be added. I also asked for extra at the firewall to prevent the engine from entering the cabin in the event of a rear end collision. At the front a bar will also go under the dash.

The thought is to keep the car driveable for the street if I so desire and with the ability to just add more bars in the doors and elsewhere if I plan at a later date to make it a wheel to wheel track only car.

Any suggestions for a cage are welcomed.
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db9146
post Mar 8 2007, 10:10 PM
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I had a chance to ride in a 914 powered by a stock 13B connected to a 901 and it was great. The characteristics of the engine worked very nicely with the 901 gearing. It really made me think twice about my 914s motivation.

I really like the sound of the yellow RX racer in the link above. You are really going to have a cool ride.
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