Re-keying your locks, The how-to thread Options

[markb]

The Front Trunk Lock

I did not have a key for this lock, so I had to use a cutoff wheel to get it out of it’s housing. That’s why there are grooves in it. Please ignore them.

The first pic is showing where the screw that holds it to the housing is located. The cable in the front trunk needs to be disconnected, then this screw needs to be taken out. You need a key, or at least have the handle unlocked, to remove it. Then the handle will pull far enough forward to get the cable off of the handle


Here is the small screw that releases the tumbler.

[markb]

Note the locking pin, it needs go back in the same way it came out.

Re-key in the normal way.

Reassemble, making sure the locking pin is in correctly.

Put it back in the car, and you’re done. This is a very simple, but time consuming lock.

[dflesburg]

okay all my locks are set, except my 911 ignition tumbler... PLEASE!

[markb]

okay all my locks are set, except my 911 ignition tumbler... PLEASE!

OK ALREADY!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

I'll take home a couple of 911 switches & work something up.

[rezron]

Great job on the "How to " thread! If a person has a little patience
it's actually pretty easy! I've rekeyed a few locks already with no problems!

Thanks,
Ron (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[markb]

Glad to hear it! This really isn't that hard once you see what it looks like torn down. My goal is to have everyone with single-key cars! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[jim_hoyland]

I finally got my truck and glve box locks done. One question Mark: The wafers used on the doors should have completely square openings right ?

Also, stopped by Balport Lock Shop in Newport. The guy there has done Porsche locks for many years. He said the wafers can be purchased from suppliers by locksmiths. The guy was really helpfull.

[markb]

Since the lock cyls are curved, I would think the wafers would need to be slightly rounded, but I could be way off base there.
It's nice to know the wafers are available. I'll have to check with my local locksmith & see if he can get me some.
I really need to get ambitious again & finish this thread. Sorry it's taking so long.

[jim_hoyland]

Sorry, I wasn't clear. I'm asking whether the doors get al square center wafers. That is they do not have the little step in the center area.

I know you refer to one type as the valet wafer--just confused over which is which anf what tumberls get what.

Also, in post 42: Does a screw attach the cable to the pull handle.

[markb]

Correct, the doors & ignition switch get all square ones. No valet wafer. That being said, you can put a valet wafer in any of them if you want, or delete the valet wafers from any or all. It just depends on what you want to do.
It's been a while since I actually pulled a front trunk handle, but I think the cable end is threaded onto the handle. The screw keeps the handle from pulling all the way out of the housing.
Please correct me if I'm not remembering this right.

[PRS914-6]

Great thread......I took all my locks down to a locksmith to re-key. The "master locksmith" could not figure out how the valet key worked and even called me and told me that the locks were worn out because both keys fit in all the locks. I told him they are supposed to and the functions had something to do with the wafers but wasn't sure what. He told me I was wrong.....

You just can't find good work anymore........

Thanks for the great thread!

[jim_hoyland]

My guess, having just done this is that if both keys ( Red and Black) fit all locks, then all the wafers had perfectly rectangular openings. That is, none of the wafers have a "step" inside the retangular hole.

I have heard a lot of cars that had the so-called valet wafers in the locks ( the ones with a step in the opening) were converted so that either the red or black would work.

Mark' thread is really helpfull--hopefully it will go classic

jim

[markb]

Moving on to the rear trunk lock.
You will need a 32mm wrench to remove the nut.
Remove the nut and spacer sleeve, and the lock will pull out of the car.

Remove the screw that holds the mechanism in.

Insert the key and remove the tumbler.

[markb]

Clean and re-key in the normal fashion.
Fit the mechanism back into the housing, making sure to line up the slots.

Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly.

[mrhurtalot]

i used my cyl. from the trunk lock (got a pull cable) in the passenger door! worked great.

btw i used this Tutorial to learn how to rekey a lock and it WORKS LIKE A CHARM! thanks!

[markb]

And now for the dreaded glovebox lock.
It’s a pain in the a$$ to get out of the car. You need to take the strap loose that holds the glovebox in place, and to do that you should remove your radio to give you better access to the small nut holding the strap in place.
Once you can get to the lock, from the glovebox side, you can get a small screwdriver on the nut.

Once the nut is off, you can pull off the latch. There is a wavy lock washer in there, don’t lose it when you pull off the latch.

Now you can remove the 24mm nut, and take the lock itself out. There’s a locking sleeve that will come out with the nut.

[markb]

You will need a pair of snap-ring pliers to remove the snap-ring.

Insert the key & remove the tumbler.

Clean and re-key as described above.
Once again, reassembly is the reverse of disassembly.

That’s it for the normal 914/4 locks.

I’ll tackle the 914/6 ignition next time.

[jim_hoyland]

Mark,

Got the hood lock in but having trouble with the pull cable. Is the cable replaceable ? Any sources out there ?
Jim

[markb]

I'm sure the cable can be replaced. I've even heard you can pull the old cable out while leaving the sheath in, and just thread a new cable in the old sheath. That would make it pretty easy.
I'd call Dave at GPR, but that's only because he's always the first one I call. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[jim_hoyland]

That the trick I missed-leaving the sheath in place.... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

I'm sure the cable can be replaced. I've even heard you can pull the old cable out while leaving the sheath in, and just thread a new cable in the old sheath. That would make it pretty easy.
I'd call Dave at GPR, but that's only because he's always the first one I call. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)