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> Re-keying your locks, The how-to thread
markb
post Feb 21 2007, 10:10 PM
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Uh-oh. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) IIRC, it will be easiest to have 2 people to thread that baby back in, but it's been a really long time since I put one in.
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dyw914
post Feb 22 2007, 12:51 PM
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Mark, great thread. I was disassembling my trunk lock last night and noticed there is a rubber?/plastic? gasket between the cylinder and the housing near the top where the key is inserted. I’m guessing it’s used to keep dirt from getting into the lock cylinder. Do you know if this gasket is still available?

David
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7TPorsh
post Feb 22 2007, 01:19 PM
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My handles are good...are the lock cylinders available by themselves?
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markb
post Feb 22 2007, 02:21 PM
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QUOTE(dyw914 @ Feb 22 2007, 10:51 AM) *

Mark, great thread. I was disassembling my trunk lock last night and noticed there is a rubber?/plastic? gasket between the cylinder and the housing near the top where the key is inserted. I’m guessing it’s used to keep dirt from getting into the lock cylinder. Do you know if this gasket is still available?

David

I'm sure you're correct as to thier use, but I have no idea whether they are still available. You might check with our parts folks (GPR, Pelican, etc) to see.
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markb
post Feb 22 2007, 02:23 PM
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QUOTE(7T Porsha @ Feb 22 2007, 11:19 AM) *

My handles are good...are the lock cylinders available by themselves?

As I mentioned above, check with the parts places, I'll bet they can hunt them down for you. More than likely I'll have a couple from broken handles if you want a used one.
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914Sixer
post Feb 23 2007, 08:54 AM
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The 75-76 steering column requires you to mark and then drill hole to remove pin holding ignition lock. The only place I have seen the demensions is the the factory manuals. Good pictorial.
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bd1308
post Feb 23 2007, 02:11 PM
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A dremel makes any key suddenly work.

I took the lazy way out LOL
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jim_hoyland
post Feb 23 2007, 09:36 PM
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Yup; just learned about this today.Why didthey make that change ? The '74 has a hole.


QUOTE(914Sixer @ Feb 23 2007, 06:54 AM) *

The 75-76 steering column requires you to mark and then drill hole to remove pin holding ignition lock. The only place I have seen the demensions is the the factory manuals. Good pictorial.
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markb
post Feb 24 2007, 12:46 AM
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Jim, were you able to take any pics you could post?

QUOTE(jim_hoyland @ Feb 23 2007, 07:36 PM) *

Yup; just learned about this today.Why didthey make that change ? The '74 has a hole.


QUOTE(914Sixer @ Feb 23 2007, 06:54 AM) *

The 75-76 steering column requires you to mark and then drill hole to remove pin holding ignition lock. The only place I have seen the demensions is the the factory manuals. Good pictorial.
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markb
post Jun 14 2007, 11:22 PM
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I guess it's time for a little update. I finally got around to digging out my 911SC ignition switch, and after a bit of tinkering, I've figured out how to re-key it. Look at the end of this thread for the update.
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orange914
post Jun 14 2007, 11:43 PM
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not trying to hijack the thread but have a door lock that locks but doesnt unlock. with key turned normally in unlock direction, the screwed on tab on the inner door side "jumps" back to neutral. the screw is tight and moves with tab. like something is releasing internally (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) oh, and it does have a good plastic piece
now back to your regularly schedualed program
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markb
post Jun 14 2007, 11:47 PM
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It sounds like you need to clean & lube everything in the door and the handle. The actuator on the handle is not working the lock mechanism. Either that or your handle itself may be broken (corners rounded).
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orange914
post Jun 15 2007, 12:23 AM
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QUOTE(markb @ Jun 14 2007, 10:47 PM) *

It sounds like you need to clean & lube everything in the door and the handle. The actuator on the handle is not working the lock mechanism.

the handle is out and in hand. the key turns the inner screwed on tab to lock but when turned to unlock it moves a short way and pops back nuetral position. as if internally slipping. the screw is not loose and stays with the tab
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markb
post Jun 15 2007, 12:27 AM
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I bet the edges of the tumbler have rounded off. The actuator (the piece screwed on the end) is probably slipping because of that. Pull the actuator off & look at the edges. You may need a new tumbler.
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markb
post Jun 19 2007, 01:15 PM
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OK, hopefully I can now finish this thread.
This is what I've done to re-key a 914-6 (this one is actually a 911) ignition switch.

There is a "blind" pin that needs to be removed. I was lucky with this one, in that it was removable without drilling. I talked to a local locksmith, and he advised drilling a small hole next to the pin, and use a small pick or awl to remove it.

Attached Image

Once the pin is removed, the assembly will slide out.

Attached Image

There is a black piece at the front of the assembly that twists off.

To remove the tumbler, remove the circlip (kind of a pain in the a$$).

Attached Image

Attached Image

Now you can re-key it as explained above.

Attached Image

Put it back together & drive that puppy! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving-girl.gif)
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dflesburg
post Jun 19 2007, 04:14 PM
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sweet.
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dflesburg
post Jul 6 2007, 12:16 PM
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oh, and Thank you
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markb
post Jul 6 2007, 04:20 PM
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You're welcome. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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JPB
post Jul 6 2007, 06:48 PM
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Cool thread! For the record, you can stick your key in that tumbler doohicky and then them brass pieces all get sucked in. If you gerind the remaining brass pieces flush, the key you are using will work. You can us one key for all your cars! If this has been said before then oooh well. Are you using genuin Porsche tools on that or VW? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif)
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96740
post May 12 2008, 09:05 AM
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Great thread. Someone over at 914.club gave me a link to this. I'm going to probably have to do this to mine here soon. A couple questions... Where do you get the new set of keys? and are they allready cut and do the wafers just work around that?
Roy.
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