stroking a 4 cyl Options

[ws91420]

Looking to build a 2270. I know I know get a Jake kit.
I'm a bit of a rebel and want to go at it myself.
Stroker crank 78mm what else is needed.

is a longer cylinder need for the stroke
longer rods should I go chevy or type 4 rod journals
thinking about doing larger intake valves on the heads and using 40mm Webers

[McMark]

RANT You will be hard pressed to replicate the combo that will net you 175 HP easy ENDRANT

You need to pick up a set of 96 mm pistons. Longer cylinders aren't necessary and OEM German cylinders are best.

Type IV rods are weak. Best bet is Type I rods. But this means custom pistons. Which means you gotta know pin height, ring heights, etc.

Larger intake valves are fine. If you want your power to start a 4000 rpm and peak at 7000. Smaller valves keep the air flowing nicely and boost low RPM power, but you reduce top end power (top end can mean 7500 RPM, ie, no power loss for street motors). If you decide you want some large valve heads, let me know. I have a set I'll make you a deal on. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

[Jake Raby]

Being a Rebel is sometimes not cost effective and its hard to justify if it costs MORE money to get a lesser result.

We sell all the parts individually that make up the kits, except the camshafts... The benefit of a kit if full balance work and the possibility of us prepping the parts for you and the fact that all parts come clearanced ready to drop right in.

The carbs you are going to use are too small to produce a broad powerband at 2270cc, you'll be stuck with a 5,000 RPM operating range.

I created my kits because people complained about HAVING to be a "Rebel" with a performance TIV build, I never would have guessed that people would ever want to revert back to the pre millenium days..

It's impossible to equal the standard performance of any of our kits (especially the 2270) by doing a piece meal combination and do so for the same or less money. Most people don't understand exactly what they get with a kit until they receive and inventory the parts- they are always amazed.

You can always grab my RAT 2036 crank, 3030 rods, 9500 cam, 6012 P/C kit and LE 190 heads and build from there, but to do the job as thoroughly as possible the kit is the most cost effective and wisest decision.

we offer the average Joe the opportunity to create an engine with the end result exacting a professionally configured and assembled unit- thats because these kits are passed down from my engine shop with known tuning, power ratings and etc. You can rest assured that we can offer component recommendations that are compatible with the combination because EVERY kit (while it was in the engine shop as a custom offering) saw tests with most every sub component available..

This isn't just a box of parts and it really isn't a kit. Its an unassembled engine.

Let us know if we can help in any way, I'll match the cost of any retail part you can find online. (must be the exact same component and not offered as a special from our competitors.)

[gregrobbins]

Be smart, save money, listen to Jake.

[Jake Raby]

Some guys feel that my kits take all the "adventure" out of the project, and thats exactly what they are supposed to do..

You'll have enough adventure- don't worry about it!

[crash914]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) 100%

I did the same thing. figured out that I wanted to do it my way.

now I have a good motor, but, I bought the wrong cam, wrong rods, (Had Jake rework them) wrong crank, (80mm, had to case clearance) etc.....

I have a lot more in my motor than I would if I got a kit...

You are welcome to come by and look at what I have,

I need to put it up on the stand to change out the cylinder spacers, (too much, bought wrong) to correct this problem...Then I can install my new push rods, (better than what I used) and full flow oil system..etc...the list goes on and on....

I did learn a lot and did find out that Jake is not that expensive for parts and service....go with a proven winner, you still will have lots of learning and things to figure out. You just won't be stuck with a bunch of stuff that you don't want to put in your engine when you find out that it is not the best solution....

good luck!
herb in maryland....

[spare time toys]

Im too old for that much adventure. Call Jake and get it over with and have an adventure blasting down the road in your car (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)

[brer]

It that's what you want to do... build it yourself.

Just do your homework first. There are plenty of people you can talk to and bounce ideas off of. if you think you've got your motor planned, post what you are planning here.

There are some who dont rely on jake's expertise who will gladly comment.


Not everyone "wants" to do it the easy way.
I think i'm one of those people. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

[Jake Raby]

As stated, I have done my best to take the guesswork away from this engine, make known combos and have done so in a very serious manner.

We still have a lot of guys that buy individual parts from us to do things their own way, most of the time these people are on a track that we have been down before but still refuse to listen to why we didn't stay on that same road...

A huge portion of the people that do things another way either end up never finishing the engine due to complications that force them to lose interest in the project. A few of them end up getting the engines running but then they ask us tons of questions because they have issues... These issues they have NO ONE can answer because what they were created with is unknown... Sometimes people create their own monsters- we can't help them, no one can...

A huge portion of "those"people end up crawling back, starting over and spending even more money to do what they could have done the first time.

Being bull headed costs you money, leaving development and experimentation to the guys like us is certainly what the smart man does and its the reason why we do the things we do.

I appreciate experimentation and any mans desire to go outside the box, just don't expect it to be friendly on the wallet and good for your blood pressure. Getting big results takes a lot of time, dedication and energy- I live that life everyday and let me tell you its one hell of a roller coaster ride.... I do it so the guys that don't want to- don't have to. .. Most appreciate this, some don't.

[brer]

That's a fair enough warning.

[ws91420]

I guess the thing is that I have a fairly fresh rebuild of a 2.0 in the car that I want to use. Heads had new valve guides and one seat replaced and the others checked. new valves put in. A high volume melling oil pump was put in as well. I did not put a cam for carbs in b/c at the time I was planning to stay w/ FI. I already have carbs 40 mm Webers so I would like to stay with them at this time.
I did the rebuild before I ever heard of Jake and his stuff and before he started offering kits.

This post has been edited by ws91420: Jan 27 2007, 11:42 PM

[Aaron Cox]

I guess the thing is that I have a fairly fresh rebuild of a 2.0 in the car that I want to use. Heads had new valve guides and one seat replaced and the others checked. new valves put in. A high volume melling oil pump was put in as well. I did not put a cam for carbs in b/c at the time I was planning to stay w/ FI. I already have carbs 40 mm Webers so I would like to stay with them at this time.
I did the rebuild before I ever heard of Jake and his stuff and before he started offering kits.

the whole thing has to come apart anyway (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

but remember... its all in the combo as jake says....

increased stroke may mean changes in your heads... and definately a cam swap if you would like to run carbs.

your 40's are most likely too small for the ~300CC increase of displacement...

mellings are "eh" ok... but schadeck's and a few other pumps are a bit nicer.


jake's kits are miles ahead of most... and are cheaper in the long run (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
AA

[anthony]

I guess the thing is that I have a fairly fresh rebuild of a 2.0 in the car that I want to use. Heads had new valve guides and one seat replaced and the others checked.

The thing to do would be to sell the fresh 2.0 for good money and find another engine as a core. For the core all you need to send Jake is a 2L crank, 914 flywheel, and 914 fan. You can even start with a 1.7 or 1.8 core since it's easy enough to buy a 2L crank for $150-200.

As Aaron said, to make good power out of a 2270 you need high performance heads. At minimum you need a high performance valve train to match the cam.

[jimkelly]

weather - time is money - or - time is time - both have value.

and although there are no bad choices - like there are no bad ideas : )

i say go with raby and use your engine building skills

or

renegade and a cfrate engine.

to compete in some porsche events - you will need a porsche powerplant

otherwise - go sub or v8 : ))

jim

[Jake Raby]

Changing ANY component internally will dictate equal changes to be made to all the otyher support components IF you intend to maintain efficiency, power band and overall effectiveness..

Building a 2270 with stock heads WILL net a worthless powerband that makes all it's power at such a low RPM that it will be worthless in a Sports car- it may work great in a Bus.

I have seen 2270 engines with screwed up combos MAKE LESS power than a stock engine.

It is ALL in the combo.

Guess who has over 100 proven combos for a 2270-

[jimkelly]

let me guess : )

hum

hum

hum

BORAT -- no no

W -- no no

Raby ??