1973 914-1.8 ?, Did the factory ship a 1.8 in 1973? |
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1973 914-1.8 ?, Did the factory ship a 1.8 in 1973? |
jagalyn |
Feb 4 2007, 08:14 AM
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#1
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True Patina Group: Members Posts: 414 Joined: 31-January 06 From: Scandia, MN Member No.: 5,503 Region Association: None |
I have a question. I've read that the 1.8 liter L-jectronic was available from 1974 on but have seen a lot of ads listing a 1973 914 with a 1.8 liter engine. Did the factory ship the really late 1973 cars with 1.8 engines or is this just a engine swap or oversize pistons installed at a later date? Just wondering.
Thanks, j. |
davep |
Feb 4 2007, 08:17 AM
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#2
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914 Historian Group: Benefactors Posts: 5,143 Joined: 13-October 03 From: Burford, ON, N0E 1A0 Member No.: 1,244 Region Association: Canada |
No 73 model year cars got the 1.8. In fact the 1.8 engine was late, and all the early 1974 models were 2.0 engined. It requires quite a bit of work to install a full 1.8 engine in a 73 or earlier car.
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jagalyn |
Feb 4 2007, 08:54 AM
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#3
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True Patina Group: Members Posts: 414 Joined: 31-January 06 From: Scandia, MN Member No.: 5,503 Region Association: None |
No 73 model year cars got the 1.8. In fact the 1.8 engine was late, and all the early 1974 models were 2.0 engined. It requires quite a bit of work to install a full 1.8 engine in a 73 or earlier car. That's what I thought. But then, why are there so many 73 cars listed with 1.8? Is it just a big bore kit? j. |
davep |
Feb 4 2007, 10:59 AM
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#4
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914 Historian Group: Benefactors Posts: 5,143 Joined: 13-October 03 From: Burford, ON, N0E 1A0 Member No.: 1,244 Region Association: Canada |
Not likely, since the popular big bore is a 96mm and that gives a 1911 engine. More likely is just a swap from a later year. The 1.8 is a decent engine, great heads, hates air leaks, and is a great core for a building an engine on. Any 914 with a non-original engine should be looked at carefully for other modifications. Probably very few 914's are still original, 37 years is a long time, and few care what they do with a junker.
Also, some of the cars might actually be 74 model cars sold in 1973 and the license bureau screwed up. |
Bleyseng |
Feb 4 2007, 11:15 AM
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#5
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Aircooled Baby! Group: Members Posts: 13,034 Joined: 27-December 02 From: Seattle, Washington (for now) Member No.: 24 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Also when the 1.7 engine were rebuilt mostly the domed 90mm Pistons($$$) were switched to the 93mm ones (for more hp-not).
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davep |
Feb 4 2007, 01:31 PM
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#6
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914 Historian Group: Benefactors Posts: 5,143 Joined: 13-October 03 From: Burford, ON, N0E 1A0 Member No.: 1,244 Region Association: Canada |
Most common 1.8 P&C would be the factory ones. This would require either machining the 1.7 heads for the cylinder register, or using 1.8 heads. The latter option gives you a real 1.8 basically. Either way would be expensive probably. There were 2.0 cylinders made to slip in the 1.7 heads, possibly 1.8 cylinders as well. How common these are I don't know. Anyway, check the engine number: WO & EA are 1.7, EC & AN are 1.8.
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Bleyseng |
Feb 4 2007, 03:12 PM
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#7
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Aircooled Baby! Group: Members Posts: 13,034 Joined: 27-December 02 From: Seattle, Washington (for now) Member No.: 24 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Most common 1.8 P&C would be the factory ones. This would require either machining the 1.7 heads for the cylinder register, or using 1.8 heads. The latter option gives you a real 1.8 basically. Either way would be expensive probably. There were 2.0 cylinders made to slip in the 1.7 heads, possibly 1.8 cylinders as well. How common these are I don't know. Anyway, check the engine number: WO & EA are 1.7, EC & AN are 1.8. It was common to install the 93's and have the heads rebuilt and cut for the 93's. The 93's were also a common cheap bus part. I have seen several motors that were done like this. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/barf.gif) Nice low 67hp 1.8's. NRP made a slip in 96mm that if it got pretty hot collapsed, nice but it did bump you to a 1911 engine. |
type47 |
Feb 4 2007, 03:47 PM
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#8
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Viermeister Group: Members Posts: 4,254 Joined: 7-August 03 From: Vienna, VA Member No.: 994 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
i keep seeing this want ad in the back of panorama for a 1973 1.8L. should i forward this thread to him? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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ClayPerrine |
Feb 4 2007, 06:29 PM
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#9
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Life's been good to me so far..... Group: Admin Posts: 15,470 Joined: 11-September 03 From: Hurst, TX. Member No.: 1,143 Region Association: NineFourteenerVille |
If you pull the motor down, put 2.0 euro pistons in the 1.8 engine. It ends up a 1911, and a substantial bump in HP (somewhere close to 90). Not as much torque as a true 2.0, but it will pass PCA muster because it is only 1mm bigger than the stock bore.
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Bleyseng |
Feb 4 2007, 06:32 PM
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#10
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Aircooled Baby! Group: Members Posts: 13,034 Joined: 27-December 02 From: Seattle, Washington (for now) Member No.: 24 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
If you pull the motor down, put 2.0 euro pistons in the 1.8 engine. It ends up a 1911, and a substantial bump in HP (somewhere close to 90). Not as much torque as a true 2.0, but it will pass PCA muster because it is only 1mm bigger than the stock bore. I thought that won't work due to the different wrist pin offset in the pistons so it will stick out of the cylinder. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) |
davep |
Feb 7 2007, 11:34 AM
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#11
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914 Historian Group: Benefactors Posts: 5,143 Joined: 13-October 03 From: Burford, ON, N0E 1A0 Member No.: 1,244 Region Association: Canada |
put 2.0 euro pistons in the 1.8 engine. It ends up a 1911 Uh, don't think so, perhaps an 1832. You need a 96 piston with the 66 stroke to get to 1911. Displacement chart of the type IV: http://www.tunacan.net/t4/reference/displace.shtml |
ClayPerrine |
Feb 7 2007, 01:52 PM
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#12
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Life's been good to me so far..... Group: Admin Posts: 15,470 Joined: 11-September 03 From: Hurst, TX. Member No.: 1,143 Region Association: NineFourteenerVille |
If you pull the motor down, put 2.0 euro pistons in the 1.8 engine. It ends up a 1911, and a substantial bump in HP (somewhere close to 90). Not as much torque as a true 2.0, but it will pass PCA muster because it is only 1mm bigger than the stock bore. I thought that won't work due to the different wrist pin offset in the pistons so it will stick out of the cylinder. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) Funny... if it won't work, then I have a rare car driving around on the streets of Dallas/Fort Worth. |
Bleyseng |
Feb 7 2007, 02:19 PM
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#13
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Aircooled Baby! Group: Members Posts: 13,034 Joined: 27-December 02 From: Seattle, Washington (for now) Member No.: 24 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
I'll have to mock it up with the spare parts I have laying around to see if the "Myth" is true or not.
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Bleyseng |
Feb 7 2007, 08:05 PM
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#14
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Aircooled Baby! Group: Members Posts: 13,034 Joined: 27-December 02 From: Seattle, Washington (for now) Member No.: 24 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
With stock parts it doesn't work! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)
A 1.8L rod with the end won't go into a 2.0L Euro piston. The big end hits the top of the piston so you can't put in the wrist pin. Now you could grind off the big lump and rebalance the rod.... but I still didn't check how the rod/piston length works with a cylinder. Later maybe. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) Attached image(s) |
ClayPerrine |
Feb 7 2007, 09:03 PM
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#15
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Life's been good to me so far..... Group: Admin Posts: 15,470 Joined: 11-September 03 From: Hurst, TX. Member No.: 1,143 Region Association: NineFourteenerVille |
With stock parts it doesn't work! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) A 1.8L rod with the end won't go into a 2.0L Euro piston. The big end hits the top of the piston so you can't put in the wrist pin. Now you could grind off the big lump and rebalance the rod.... but I still didn't check how the rod/piston length works with a cylinder. Later maybe. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) Uhhh.. OK.. but how did I do it then??? Stock rods and 2.0 euro pistons. It is out in the garage and has been running like that for 4 years now. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) |
jd74914 |
Feb 7 2007, 09:26 PM
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#16
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Its alive Group: Members Posts: 4,780 Joined: 16-February 04 From: CT Member No.: 1,659 Region Association: North East States |
How much would that weaken the piston end of the rod if you were to grind it off?
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Bleyseng |
Feb 8 2007, 12:22 AM
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#17
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Aircooled Baby! Group: Members Posts: 13,034 Joined: 27-December 02 From: Seattle, Washington (for now) Member No.: 24 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Not much but you have to balance the rod. I am still not sure if it works.
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914werke |
Feb 8 2007, 05:01 PM
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#18
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"I got blisters on me fingers" Group: Members Posts: 10,070 Joined: 22-March 03 From: USofA Member No.: 453 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
With stock parts it doesn't work! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) A 1.8L rod with the end won't go into a 2.0L Euro piston. The big end hits the top of the piston so you can't put in the wrist pin. Now you could grind off the big lump and rebalance the rod.... but I still didn't check how the rod/piston length works with a cylinder. Later maybe. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) Uhhh.. OK.. but how did I do it then??? Stock rods and 2.0 euro pistons. It is out in the garage and has been running like that for 4 years now. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smoke.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) |
Eric_Shea |
Feb 8 2007, 05:08 PM
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#19
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PMB Performance Group: Admin Posts: 19,275 Joined: 3-September 03 From: Salt Lake City, UT Member No.: 1,110 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) with Rich... Clay's been (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smoke.gif) ing
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SLITS |
Feb 9 2007, 09:49 AM
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#20
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"This Utah shit is HARSH!" Group: Benefactors Posts: 13,602 Joined: 22-February 04 From: SoCal Mountains ... Member No.: 1,696 Region Association: None |
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