Black soot in my exhaust Options

[rhodyguy]

after the baseline setting are made, and you ensure that both carbs are flowing the same (droplink adj), the 4 idle/air mixture needle screws are not ness going to be set at the exactly the same # of turns in or out after that stage of the tuning. each one will be set for the best running of the engine. as you turn each one in to fully seated you'll hear an idle stumble and perhaps a slight black fire. you'll know when you hear it. slowly turn the i/a screws out, one at a time, for a smooth idle. the 50s are a better starting point for your engine. there should be little o-rings under the caps on the i/a screws. check their condition for cracks and deterioration if you sem to have one cyl that is unresponsive.

k

[Joe Ricard]

You should be aiming for 14:1 at idle, as adjusted by the air correction screws. Some where around 1 1/2 turns out.

Now go for a cruise and watch your AF meter. you should be hovering in the middle of the the gauge at 2500 RPM part throttle.

If it's rich you will need smaller jets on the idle cicuit.

It it pops and stutters as you push on the gas an the gauge peggs lean then you need to increase acceleration volume. Turn in the nuts on the linkage to the acceleration linkage (middel of the carbs)

Next after all this is sorted go to the main jets and find a place to safely hold it full throttle and see how it goes. and adjust main jets.

2.0L should be around .50 idle 130 main 200 air. But this is so subject to air temps and humidity.

I just went down to 135's from a 140 yesterday 40 degrees this winter I could pour on the gas now I can't I also hogged out a set of air correction jets to like 250. But I like to think I know what I'm doing ans why.

[type11969]

Which WBO2? LM-1? If it is an LM-1, be careful during startup. Although it is not advertised in the instructions, if you hit the innovate forum you will find that it is recommended to not power up the LM-1 until the engine is warmed up. If the LM-1 has self heated and gets hit with some raw unburned fuel (cold shock), it can get killed. Of course, you also can't drive for particularily long with it off either before you kill it as well.

As for the dells, make sure you have ~3.5 psi and your float heights are set correctly. When setting your float heights, make sure that the little spring loaded pin is not compressed at all during the float travel (this will prematurely close the needle valve).

I suggest getting some jet plug gauges, jet reamers, and at least a unisyn if not the better version (can remember the legit name) if you are going to try to get these dells dialed in perfect. The WBO2 will definitely help. Also, pull all the jets to verify what the jet sizes are (plug gauges are important here, jets can easily be reamed out and not marked correctly), if they are the same across the board, etc. Also check the e-tubes, you want 9164.2s. Verfiy that the acc. pump is putting out the correct volume as well (.2 ccs I think).


-Chris

[terrymason]

Thanks for all the help guys!

Take a look at this video - http://www.drunkencrab.com/wbo2.mpg

You should be able to see my rpms, and the associated AF mixture.

I'm making real progress, but is still seems to lean out when I hit the gas

[type11969]

Are the pumps squirting? Is the pump volume adjusted to .2cc? What size are your pump jets? Could be the cause.

-Chris