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> Rusty long, Holly hell hole Batman
trojanhorsepower
post Nov 23 2003, 09:22 PM
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Is that the ground? Damn!. I finally got time and a place to work on her. I made a frame like Jeroen did and have the car up on jack stands. Maybe I can get this hole filled this week. Thanks to all the tips I am proceeding with confidence (ignorance is bliss). Any last minute advice before I fire up the saws, grinders, and welder?

Thanks

-Pete
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)


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Bleyseng
post Nov 23 2003, 09:51 PM
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Make sure to brace everything so it goes back together straight and weld slowly so it doesn't heat up and grow on you. (warp)

Geoff
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thomasotten
post Nov 24 2003, 08:15 AM
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Pete:

How are the door jamb clearances with that much rot?

-Thomas
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trojanhorsepower
post Nov 24 2003, 05:37 PM
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Drivers side door looks perfect. Passenger side is variable. With the car on the ground it closes up. Now it is open (up in the air w/ no support in the back). I have the doors on still, but I have designed adjustable braces so I should be able to get the spacing right. I figure if I can fix this I can fix anything!

Thanks

-Pete

PS what are you guys using to measure these gaps?
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scotty
post Nov 24 2003, 06:10 PM
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Jeroen
post Nov 24 2003, 06:54 PM
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Hey Pete,

Hmmm... doesn't look like fun

Before you go any further... weld some braces in the interiour (door gaps) so the car won't sag.

It may also be a good idea to support the rear of the car (under the dog-brace at or near the tranny mounts)
You can use a couple of scissor jacks (get them at the junk jard) for that.
Make sure you don't lift it, just support it.

Check the measurements (see the "info" page of this website) to be sure everything is (and stays) straight

Good luck!

Jeroen
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trojanhorsepower
post Nov 24 2003, 09:04 PM
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Thanks guys

I know it won't be fun, but I am in too deep to back out now! I have done a lot of reading here and other boards, I have read and printed every relavent thread that I could find, so I guess I am as prepaired as I can be.

I will make and install my adjustable braces tomorrow if this head cold will let up enough for me to get some work done.

I will post pics of the carnage.

-Pete
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trojanhorsepower
post Nov 25 2003, 10:04 PM
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Somebody shoot me!


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Brad Roberts
post Nov 26 2003, 12:43 AM
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Whoa.. you need to call Bill back at Restoration Design and order his clamshell kit (on sale right now for 270.00 I ordered from him again today).


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Jeroen
post Nov 26 2003, 05:23 AM
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man, it looks like my old 914 (IMG:style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif)

cheers,

Jeroen
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trojanhorsepower
post Nov 26 2003, 02:46 PM
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Help!!!

I am about to weld my first fabricated piece in, so I start to measure, and guess what. The “H” dimension is a little over 41”, but the “F” dimension is right on?? How is this possible? If I take the “H” measurement low on the latch depression it is ok, but when I do it the way it looks like I am supposed to (at the upper bolt holes) it is too long. So how do I shrink the door opening with out changing the windshield to roll bar dimension???

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)
Thanks

-Pete
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Jeroen
post Nov 26 2003, 04:35 PM
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As long as the left and right side are the same and the windshieldframe-to-rollbar measurements are in spec, I wouldn't worry about it

cheers,

Jeroen
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Brad Roberts
post Nov 26 2003, 04:38 PM
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The piece that the latch bolts too is pretty weak and bends easily. Bend it back. This wont effect the main hoop to targe dimensions. It will effect how the doors closes/opens.


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