Running Rough, Elgin Cam? Options

[warrenoliver]

I have a new to me 73, 914 - 2.0 with original F.I.. It just does not want to run right. It is really "boggy" in the low rpm's especially when cruising at one speed. If I get on it, it runs really strong. It doesn't backfire, it just hesitates and doesn't want to run smoothly below 2800 rpm (IMG:style_emoticons/default/chair.gif) .
It was just recently gone through and tuned and all of the vacuum hoses and fuel lines were replaced.
The P.O. claims that it has an "Elgin" cam. Would that make the point settings different from the book when I adjust the dwell? It really does not want to run very well when the dwell is at the specified 45 degrees. It runs much better at about 28 degrees (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) .
I am about to bring it into a shop to see if they can help - although I will have to rely on a VW shop here in the Madison Wisconsin area.
Anyone have good suggestions?

Thanks.

Warrenoliver

[r_towle]

I would have to ask, what cam shaft/what grind.

If you have to much overlap on the cam, the manifold pressure will not be anywhere near correct in the lower rpm range, and have a really shitty idle.

You may have a camshaft that is great with Carbs...dont know till you find out the actual part number, and call Elgin to find out what it is.

Rich

[Bleyseng]

and switch to electronic ignition- Crane, pertronix, etc...that helps alot.

[Allan]

I would have to ask, what cam shaft/what grind.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) I had the 6408 grind from Elgin with d-jet and the car ran great.

[bd1308]

Sounds like you need to adjust your ignition timing for the 45 degree dwell....

[Jake Raby]

Most camshafts don't perform well with stock EFI- of all the ones I designed and tested while developing the 9550 only one other cam worked well. The factory FI is very critical of the vacuum signature the engine has as well as needing good fuel pressure stability.

Do you have the specs on the cam?

A vacuum leak, etc will also cause this as was mentioned previously.

[warrenoliver]

Most camshafts don't perform well with stock EFI- of all the ones I designed and tested while developing the 9550 only one other cam worked well. The factory FI is very critical of the vacuum signature the engine has as well as needing good fuel pressure stability.

Do you have the specs on the cam?

A vacuum leak, etc will also cause this as was mentioned previously.

Thanks for all the suggestions so far. I will try to contact the PO and see if he still has the cam info. I have not done anything to the timing since I trust Cap'n Krusty on that more than I trust myself. When I read the Haynes manual, it says to set the breaker gap at .016, then start the engine and check the dwell. From there, I thought I was supposed to change the gap until I get a dwell reading of 45. Am I off on that? When I set the gap @.016, it runs pretty good, but with a little stumble, but the dwell is way off - about 28. When I adjust the gap to get a dwell of 45, the gap is very small - <.013 (smallest feeler gauge I have), the engine is very doggy in the low rpms.
Interestingly enough, it seems to idle OK. It idles smoothly, it just hesitates when I give it some gas - like trying to start up from a stop sign.
I suppose I could look for a vacuum leak. What is the best way to do this without spraying stuff all over the engine compartment? I noticed somewhere that someone suggested using propane - I assume from a small torch (unlit of course).
Is this a good idea, or should I use something else?

Warrenoliver

[Borderline]

Every time you change the dwell angle it changes the timing. You need to get a timing light and adjust the timing. The timing is the last thing you adjust. you can't just change the dwell angle and stop.

[warrenoliver]

Every time you change the dwell angle it changes the timing. You need to get a timing light and adjust the timing. The timing is the last thing you adjust. you can't just change the dwell angle and stop.

DAMN! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/chair.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/chair.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/chair.gif)
I was hoping I could just set it and forget it! So, looks like now I will be buying a timing light to go along with the engine analyzer I just bought. Does this end anywhere? If I don't know which cam is in there, how will I know to set the timing? I am still hoping to get the cam specs from the PO.
The problem I have with messing with the timing is, Cap'n Krusty set all of this just a month ago (in California). Now in Wisconsin, it doesn't seem to run right. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif)
Initially, I thought it was because I was running it at below freezing temps, but yesterday it got up to 75F! Maybe the car doesn't like the Central Daylight time change.

Warrenoliver

[Bleyseng]

GET Rid on the Points! You will never have to fight the dwell and gap settings so your timing stays a constant.

Buy a timing lite and set the timing to 27 BTDC at 3500rpms.

[Aaron Cox]

GET Rid on the Points! You will never have to fight the dwell and gap settings so your timing stays a constant.

Buy a timing lite and set the timing to 27 BTDC at 3500rpms.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)!!!

points are 1900's technology! maybe actually the 30's.....

get a pertonix to put in your dizzy! no points, no dwell, it has it preset and it will last a long time!