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> Front suspension installation questions
swood
post May 5 2007, 02:27 PM
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Ok, I've got the A-arms bolted tight to the frame. What's next?

Do I load up the torsion bars while the strut is in this position or compressed?

Brake dust shield is next, then bearings, rotors and brake calipers?

I can't remember, but on the powder coated spindle, do I need to take some coating off where the brake caliper mounts?

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rhodyguy
post May 5 2007, 02:34 PM
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Chimp Sanctuary NW. Check it out.
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one thing...the dust covers go on the reverse of what *seems correct*. the curved lip goes towards the center line of the car. you'll know if you have them on wrong because the brake hub won't go on far enough, it'll hit the shield first.

looks great!! elephant bushings?

k
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Aaron Cox
post May 5 2007, 02:36 PM
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you are gonna have fun with the t bars. you will reindex the end caps....several times. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

*I* would clean off the powdercoating at the caliper mount area. it was originally a machined 'dead-nutz' flat area.
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Aaron Cox
post May 5 2007, 02:36 PM
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BTW... nice BogelSteins (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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swood
post May 5 2007, 02:56 PM
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AA - you know me...I need much simpler explanation of things. Bar in...index later (like after the car is down?)
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swood
post May 5 2007, 03:42 PM
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One more question, how far into the rear of the front hub does the outer bearing race go? There's a little ridge about 1/4" in, but it seems to me like it should go past that.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) ?
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skline
post May 5 2007, 04:19 PM
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Steve, that looks really nice, how much was it to get it all powder coated and who did it for you? I have ine apart and think it may look good on mine too.
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swood
post May 5 2007, 05:39 PM
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never mind...
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Matt Romanowski
post May 5 2007, 06:01 PM
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I wouldn't worry about cleaning the mounting area off. The powder isn't really thick enough to cause problems.
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swood
post May 5 2007, 09:08 PM
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QUOTE(Matt Romanowski @ May 5 2007, 05:01 PM) *

I wouldn't worry about cleaning the mounting area off. The powder isn't really thick enough to cause problems.




I did on one and the rotor was fairly centered in the caliper.
I didn't clean it off the other spindle and the caliper was actually off center enough for me to want to take the coating off. No biggie.

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Mo betta...



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These wheels are off the aubergine car that T H O M A S now has. The wheels had spacers on them when on that car. Anyone know why this would be? I know it pushes the wheel out a bit, but is it just for aesthetics?

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SLITS
post May 5 2007, 09:18 PM
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With wheels off the ground, put Torsion bars in carrier .... remember they are left and right .... Pry down on "A" arm and put adjustor on with adjusting screw all the way out .... the position you are looking for is the adjustor end (part with the screw) to be at the upper part of the crossbar. Pic 9.2 page 103 of Haynes manual (except the screw should not be sticking out of the upper part of the adjustor).
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swood
post May 5 2007, 09:42 PM
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Got it, stamped L and R. Are they directional...front to rear?
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swood
post May 5 2007, 10:04 PM
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So Ron (or anyone),

Is the end cap starting high like this or lower?


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Dave_Darling
post May 6 2007, 12:54 AM
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QUOTE(swood @ May 5 2007, 07:42 PM) *

Got it, stamped L and R. Are they directional...front to rear?


No, they are not. The stresses go the same way, no matter which way around you turn the bar--as long as it's on the same side as it came out of.

--DD
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SLITS
post May 6 2007, 01:16 AM
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QUOTE(swood @ May 5 2007, 09:04 PM) *

So Ron (or anyone),

Is the end cap starting high like this or lower?


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In the droop position (car on lift or jacks) the adjustment screw would be backed all the way out and the arm of the adjustor would be touching where the adjustment screw now is (kinda).

Some manuals show putting a pry bar thru the "A" arm and pulling down while you install the adjustor on the torsion bar.

PS ..... it's pretty
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swood
post May 6 2007, 10:44 AM
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Oh, so you mean that the adjuster arm should be more counter clockwise at this point?
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