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> Six Conversion and the Voltage Regulator, SC Alt. has built in Reg. what to do about relay board
Mike D.
post May 15 2007, 05:43 PM
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OK, It runs now, and pretty good too!
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My last six conversion was with an early 2.0 6 so I was fine with the stock 914 4 regulator on the relay board. The engine I am installing now is a 3.0 sc with the internal reg. alt. so now I'm a little confused as to what I should do on the relay board. Do I need to run a jumper wire somewhere?
I know someone out there has BTDT.

Thanks,
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iamchappy
post May 15 2007, 06:16 PM
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It all happens so fast!
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I just run it without the relay board voltage regulator, everything seems to work fine without it.
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john rogers
post May 15 2007, 06:33 PM
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After waiting for a couple of years, I finally replaced mine with a pair of water proof electrical connectors so that all the connectors from the input side were still connected to the output side as I use them for other things. If you use the diagram on the Pelican site or in the Haynes manual you can match color to color.
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Series9
post May 15 2007, 08:09 PM
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It's not hard. Remove the board and regulator and sell that boat anchor on eBay.

Buy a female version of the 14-pin connector. Call Patrick Motorsports or Porsche. Patrick sells them for around $38.

Pull out the wiring diagram and replace either the male on the car side or the one on the engine harness. It requires some simple soldering. When you're finished, the car and engine 14-pin plugs will simply connect together.

All you need to know about the internally regulated alternator:

Large red: Starter + or battery +.
Small blue: Alt. light on the dash.
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Series9
post May 15 2007, 08:16 PM
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Here's a picture of the male 14-pin on Waide's engine harness.

I have the cap removed so I can rearrange the pins to match the 914.

I then removed the 14-pin male connector from the 914 harness where it used to plug into the firewall side of the relay board and replaced it with a female with the pins arranged to match the engine pin-out.



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Series9
post May 15 2007, 08:34 PM
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The finished connection:



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Mike D.
post May 16 2007, 01:29 PM
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OK, It runs now, and pretty good too!
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QUOTE(Series9 @ May 15 2007, 07:34 PM) *

The finished connection:



Thanks Joe!
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Eric_Shea
post May 16 2007, 01:51 PM
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Excellent info (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)
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SLITS
post May 16 2007, 02:48 PM
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If you get the Porsche Technical Bulletin 1, Model 1974 - 1983 911T, "New Alternator has Integrated Regulator" on replacing external with internal ..... it will tell you exactly what to do.****

**** Just in case you want to retain the /4 relay board.
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Eric_Shea
post May 16 2007, 02:51 PM
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Can you post it?
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Gint
post May 16 2007, 02:56 PM
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QUOTE(john rogers @ May 15 2007, 05:33 PM) *

After waiting for a couple of years, I finally replaced mine with a pair of water proof electrical connectors so that all the connectors from the input side were still connected to the output side as I use them for other things. If you use the diagram on the Pelican site or in the Haynes manual you can match color to color.
Question...

Rather than buy an expensive female connector to match that very expensive male connector, why not replace it with a modern alternative?
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SLITS
post May 16 2007, 03:07 PM
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"This Utah shit is HARSH!"
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QUOTE(Eric_Shea @ May 16 2007, 01:51 PM) *

Can you post it?


I'll see if it will scan tonight ...... don't have a scanner at work (that's hooked up)
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Series9
post May 16 2007, 03:08 PM
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QUOTE(Gint @ May 16 2007, 02:56 PM) *

Question...

Rather than buy an expensive female connector to match that very expensive male connector, why not replace it with a modern alternative?



1. $38 isn't very expensive.
2. It's a VERY high quality connector.
3. I've never seen another that will accept the differing sizes of wires necessary to do the job.
4. You would have to replace both sides, instead of one.
5. Most new connectors require a specialized crimping tool to crimp the pins to the wires.

That's why. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cool.gif)
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Eric_Shea
post May 16 2007, 03:11 PM
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QUOTE
I'll see if it will scan tonight ...... don't have a scanner at work (that's hooked up)


Just re-type it... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/40.gif)
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Series9
post May 16 2007, 03:11 PM
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QUOTE(Eric_Shea @ May 16 2007, 02:51 PM) *

Can you post it?





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Series9
post May 16 2007, 03:12 PM
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and:



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Eric_Shea
post May 16 2007, 03:13 PM
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Once again, Joe saves yur ass...
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Series9
post May 16 2007, 03:21 PM
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QUOTE(Eric_Shea @ May 16 2007, 03:13 PM) *

Once again, Joe saves yur ass...



I owe him plenty more 'saves' than that. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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Eric_Shea
post May 16 2007, 03:27 PM
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QUOTE
I owe him plenty more 'saves' than that.


Don't tell him that... he'll get all cocky and... then Slits will come out and then... P9 will hit the thread and then... you know (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif)
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Gint
post May 16 2007, 04:15 PM
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QUOTE(Series9 @ May 16 2007, 02:08 PM) *

QUOTE(Gint @ May 16 2007, 02:56 PM) *

Question...

Rather than buy an expensive female connector to match that very expensive male connector, why not replace it with a modern alternative?



1. $38 isn't very expensive.
2. It's a VERY high quality connector.
3. I've never seen another that will accept the differing sizes of wires necessary to do the job.
4. You would have to replace both sides, instead of one.
5. Most new connectors require a specialized crimping tool to crimp the pins to the wires.

That's why. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cool.gif)
Ok then... Where can I get a male version?
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