Oil Leaks, or should I say, oil spews Options

[bigkensteele]

I did not want to completely hijack ORTHOBIZ's topic

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=73234

Car is a completely stock '75 1.8

Issue 1: As I mentioned in his thread, my car either dies at inoportune times or just will not start at all, usually when I am far from home. Without exception, it has always started when the flatbed driver drops it on my driveway. I believe this to be an electrical problem rather than a fuel problem, although I have no proof.

Questions: What should I check now? What should I check when it happens? What tools should I be carrying with me to check what I need to check?

Issue 2: My car does not leak oil, it spews it. I have replaced the oil cooler seals with the engine in the car (per directions I downloaded somewhere). I am fairly certain that those seals should now be tight. However, the thing still leaks profusely. I have not yet had the opportunity to completely clean the engine and determine the location of all of the leaks. Unfortunately, it is leaving several distinct puddles.

Questions: Is there a known condition that could cause unusual positive internal pressure that would increase the amount of oil leakage?

Thanks,
Ken

[BMartin914]

Your "dying" issue sounds fuel-related to me. You've got the up front pump, so probably not vapor lock, but sounds like a fuel issue nonetheless.

The only real way to diagnose an oil leak is to clean off the entire engine with brake/carb cleaner and once it is clean, start the car, get under and watch with a flashlight the suspect areas to see exactly where the oil is coming from. They tend to leak from certain areas as a rule. It shouldn't be too hard to find the source if the engine isn't covered in gunk.

If your heads are not vented, either back to the air cleaner or into a catch can, too much pressure can build up inside the case and increase your chances of leaking more oil.

[Dave_Darling]

You need three things for the engine to run: Fuel, spark, and air (compression).

Take the following with you--
* Remote starter switch.
* Extra spark plug and some duct tape or electrical tape.
* Socket set, paper towels, empty mayo jars.
* Spark plug socket, compression tester.

I would probably leave that third set out, as it is unlikely you are spontaneously losing compression and getting it back again. Plus you can listen to the sounds of the engine cranking and see if it is uneven (and different from when the car does start).

To check for spark: Plug your extra plug into one of the plug wires. Tape it with the threaded part or outer electrode against a ground, like the fan shroud. Use the remote starter switch to crank the starter and look for a spark.

To check for fuel: Fuel smell at the tailpipe after cranking for a little while. Or, you can remove the injectors on one side (one M6 nut--uses a 10mm socket--holds each injector in) and put them into the mayo jars. Use the remote starter to crank the starter and watch for fuel spray. Fuel dribble is not so good, BTW.

If those test out and the car still doesn't start, then your suspects are the ignition timing, and the amount of fuel going in.

--DD