Help! Before I give up on D-Jet FI and go carbs!, Need an ECM Options

[customstarr]

I've posted several times about my ultra-rich running d-jet system, and I've tried everything to no avail. Except one: the ECM.

Just wondering if anyone out there has a spare that is known good. I was checking out mine, and it looks as if it's taken a bit of a hit from some battery corrosion. I haven't cracked it, but I've chased everything else - who knows?

Car is a 1971 1.7L - all stock. According to pbanders site, any of these ECMs should work:

Stock: 0 280 000 015 (CU11X)

Or: 0 280 000 037 (CU13X)

Or: 0 280 000 043 (CU14X)

Or: 0 280 000 044 (CU14X)

I realy want to keep the D-Jet system, and I especially want to keep the car - but this rich condition makes it undriveable and an unbelievable pain in the ass overall.

Any help is greatly apreciated. I love this car, but it's testing me beyond belief.

[sean_v8_914]

did you unplug teh ecu and measure each pin of the wiring harness per Brads table on his site?

[sean_v8_914]

only 23 pins and about 12 measurements

[Johny Blackstain]

I was checking out mine, and it looks as if it's taken a bit of a hit from some battery corrosion. I haven't cracked it, but I've chased everything else - who knows?

Did'nt I mention this in your other thread? That happened to my Dad, years ago. He wound up sending the old one into JCWhitney & getting a rebuild. This was several centuries ago (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) & I have no idea if Whitney still carries them. Good question though & I'll see if I can find anything as well. Can't hurt to keep a spare. I'd also venture into cracking it open & seeing how it is inside before sending out for a rebuild. Might be able to get away w/ a good cleaning?


(IMG:style_emoticons/default/cool_shades.gif)

[rigglet]

I've got one in a box at home. Status is unknown, but I am happy to send it to you to see if it eliminates your issue. I'll check tonight when I get home to see it is one of the correct ones for your car.

[Bleyseng]

only CU11 and CU15 are for a 1.7L. The others are for 2.0L only, do not mix parts!!!!

Have you changed out the CHT?
Have you checked the MPS with a vacuum pump?
Have you checked the injectors for leaks and even fuel delivery? (CC em)

[toon1]

I've got a known working,73 1.7 FI setup for sale, $100bucks.

MPS,ECU,TPS,AAR,wire harness.

[Dr Evil]

The likelyhood of your ECU being broke and your engine still running is verrrrry small. The mixture is controlled by inputs to the ECU from the MPS and the CHT (there may be others, but I am going off of memory). It is far more likely that your wire harness has a problem, or one of the components. Check the harness, clean contacts, etc.

[customstarr]

Well... I pulled the ECM today & cracked her open - looked as good as new. Also tested the harness per PBanders site - 100% OK.

This is where I'm at:

The car runs super rich over all load conditions. I've now checked the ECM, ECM harness, Fuel Pressure (30 PSI), Vacuum & Ohm Tested the MPS, Ohm tested the CHT, replaced the TS1 (just for giggles), set the valves, bypassed the CSV, all new ignition system (Bosch cap, rotor, points, condenser, coil, wires, NGK plugs), cleaned the TB, checked or replaced vacuum lines, etc, etc, etc...

Things I've missed: Timing (will check/set that this week), Trigger Points (will also check this week).

This is what it's getting down to: The MPS held 15Hg for 5 minutes (dropped 1Hg) - held 20Hg for 5 minutes (did not drop below 15Hg) - who knows, despite holding vacuum and good ohm test, maybe it's crapping out. Maybe the Trigger Points are shot, but people says that's rare. My CHT ohms out good, but maybe???

I can only be a few things, and I've checked most - I'm almost out of paitence.

[Dr Evil]

Are you using the correct CHT sensor?

Timing, plugs, etc can all cause rich looking condition due to incomplete buring of fuel.

[TravisNeff]

When are you checking for fuel pressure? Just at key on, or are you watching the gauge as the car runs? A kinked return line would make you run rich.

[customstarr]

Are you using the correct CHT sensor?

Timing, plugs, etc can all cause rich looking condition due to incomplete buring of fuel.

As far as I know, the CHT is original.

I just went out and tested the sensor - reads 1.735K Ohms and it is 92F outside (the car is outside too).

Seems normal - PBanders site says (for the stock part #) 2.85 K ohms @ 61F, 191.2 ohms @ 210F, and below 100 ohms at operating temp.

MPS? Timing? Trigger Points? Who knows?

[customstarr]

When are you checking for fuel pressure? Just at key on, or are you watching the gauge as the car runs? A kinked return line would make you run rich.

Looking at pressure while running. 30PSI.

I get some real nice clouds of black smoke, and the gas fumes will burn your eyes. No raw gas on the ground out the exhaust.

[toon1]

When are you checking for fuel pressure? Just at key on, or are you watching the gauge as the car runs? A kinked return line would make you run rich.

Looking at pressure while running. 30PSI.

I get some real nice clouds of black smoke, and the gas fumes will burn your eyes. No raw gas on the ground out the exhaust.

Have you checked for leaky injectors?

It only takes one!

[customstarr]

When are you checking for fuel pressure? Just at key on, or are you watching the gauge as the car runs? A kinked return line would make you run rich.

Looking at pressure while running. 30PSI.

I get some real nice clouds of black smoke, and the gas fumes will burn your eyes. No raw gas on the ground out the exhaust.

Have you checked for leaky injectors?

It only takes one!

I was thinking that, but ALL of my plugs are fouled equally black.

[toon1]

I would check them anyway just to make sure. something may have passed by the filter and clogged more than one. It will also eliminate that possibility.