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> Good Deal on Evilbay?, Pistons and cylinders - Mahle's
Brad Roberts
post Dec 14 2003, 03:18 PM
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My thoughts now:

build a 2056 on your case. 71mm crank/rods and the 96mm P+C's.

The Chevy slogon "no replacement for displacement" still applies to our engines.


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Mark Henry
post Dec 14 2003, 04:17 PM
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QUOTE(Brad Roberts @ Dec 14 2003, 01:18 PM)
My thoughts now:

build a 2056 on your case. 71mm crank/rods and the 96mm P+C's.

The Chevy slogon "no replacement for displacement" still applies to our engines.


B

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

If your going to put down the coin for a motor do it right. A 2.0 crank and rods is a fairly cheap bump in displacement.

But be clear your now entering the hi-po zone and power costs.
A hopped up T4 can cost just as much as a V8, maybe more.
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MarkV
post Dec 14 2003, 04:51 PM
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Those Ebay P&C's are bus parts, they are 7.2-1 CR vs US 914 7.6-1 CR. They are made in Brazil not Germany. Hence the $229.00 price.
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tracks914
post Dec 15 2003, 09:24 PM
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QUOTE(Mark Henry @ Dec 14 2003, 02:17 PM)


If your going to put down the coin for a motor do it right. A 2.0 crank and rods is a fairly cheap bump in displacement.

But be clear your now entering the hi-po zone and power costs.
A hopped up T4 can cost just as much as a V8, maybe more.

I'm still looking for my 2.0 parts car (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)
A year and a bit and still haven't found one this side of the border. I found 2 - 1.8's and a couple of 1.7's but no 2.0's yet!
It may just be worth waiting for and doing it up from there.
If I don't find one I think I will go Brads route and build a 2056. I like the sound of that.
I don't needlessly throw money away but for my "project", coin won't be a factor to do it up right. Once I have my "original" 1.7 done then I will work on another engine to get some power out of it.
As for the cost of doing small block chevy's, they're cheap to do.
$1500 and I do all the machine shop work and a couple of my engines are still in race cars (winning) 6 years later.
If you want to see big dollars, try redoing a current year model 2 cylinder snowmachine engine. I have seen those run up to the $5k mark. Ouch!
For you guys in SoCal, snowmachines are like seadoos to be used on frozen seas. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mueba.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mueba.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mueba.gif)
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Rgreen914
post Dec 15 2003, 10:20 PM
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"Big block" versions of most any motor cost lots more. Small block Chevy parts are as cheap, compared to big blocks, as type I's are compared to type IV's. But brother does displacement make a difference!
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Van914
post Dec 16 2003, 06:48 AM
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I have a set of P & C Euro Made in Germany I bought from Doc and Cy's for sale in the classifieds. New never used the correct Euro parts.
Thanks
Van914
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kafermeister
post Dec 16 2003, 06:54 AM
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QUOTE(tracks914 @ Dec 15 2003, 11:24 PM)
I'm still looking for my 2.0 parts car (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)
A year and a bit and still haven't found one this side of the border. I found 2 - 1.8's and a couple of 1.7's but no 2.0's yet!

I thought the 2.0 Bus crank/rods were the same as the 914 2.0. Can someone correct me here?

Surely there's some junker 2.0 VW Buses arround. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)
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davep
post Dec 16 2003, 09:37 AM
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I believe you are correct that the Bus 2.0 uses the same bottom end. The bus pistons are very dished. The bus heads are much like a 1.8.

I do have a 73 914 2.0 core engine I may sell. It was "converted" for bus use so a bit of reconversion would be needed. I sold the bus heads, but have a core set of 914 2.0 heads that could be used with some work. And I'm on the north side of the border!

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Mark Henry
post Dec 16 2003, 09:39 AM
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LOL!!

I haven’t got a clue about Chevy’s… I’ve probably rebuilt/hopped-up over a thousand VW engines and I’ve never put together a chev V8!!! Don’t even know how to set the endplay.

BUT it must have been a big block or whatever, because one of my buddies just put together a $14,000 (Canadian) Chevy engine.
Also my brother and his buddy had stock car that they raced at Westgate in Peterborough and that engine was a small block that cost them $6000 in 1995.
You might be able to build a cheaper smallblock, but they won the championship, for their class, two years in a row.



“I thought the 2.0 Bus crank/rods were the same as the 914 2.0. Can someone correct me here?

Surely there's some junker 2.0 VW Buses arround. “


Porsche turned the 66mm (1.7, 1.8) crank into the 71mm 2.0 crank, and then VW started putting them in busses in ’76 I believe.
A lot of people say the 914 2.0 crank is a better crank, but the bus 2.0 crank will work just as well.
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tracks914
post Dec 16 2003, 04:16 PM
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QUOTE(Mark Henry @ Dec 16 2003, 07:39 AM)

BUT it must have been a big block or whatever, because one of my buddies just put together a $14,000 (Canadian) Chevy engine.
Also my brother and his buddy had stock car that they raced at Westgate in Peterborough and that engine was a small block that cost them $6000 in 1995.
You might be able to build a cheaper smallblock, but they won the championship, for their class, two years in a row.

If you have the ability to do your own heads, blue print and balancing you can easily save yourself $5k. the time is all the money here.
I raced stock cars for years ( with a 75% winning average) with several championships to my name. Yes I was racing against a bunch of "Canadian Rednecks"(3/4 of them were easy to beat) but the only engine failure I had in 6 years of racing was a bad distirbutor that took me 2 races to find crapping out after 500rpm. The last engine I did cost me $650 CAN and is still in my last racecar I built ('82 Z28) and racing in the Ottawa area 7 years after I built it. It can be done and done right!
I have people I know that take an engine to a shop and say "build me this, I want it to be fast and win races" A month later they walked away with an good engine and a $10K bill to show for it. That doesn't mean you need all that $$$ to win. It really made me feel good to beat those guys however most of them were racing in super modified classes and I only got to race them once a year.
In stock or mod stock you can still get 275 hp out out a small block chevy with a 2 barrel carb and the right stock (Corvette) parts. If you want to push the 400 hp + range and risk reliability then you do have to spend much more money on parts but still I would only be looking at $3K to do it all myself.
As for the type IV's I am just doing as I did for Chevy's, find out all you can first, do my homework and then build a good reliable engine for the minimum number of $$$. Then next time do it even better. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/MDB2.gif)
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