Need brake bleeding advise |
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Need brake bleeding advise |
jmmotorsports |
Jun 27 2007, 05:24 PM
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#1
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Member Group: Members Posts: 308 Joined: 15-August 06 From: Kelso,Wa. Member No.: 6,658 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
I have 911 front/914 rear, 19mm master cyilender no proportioning valve. I just replaced the master cylinder and rear pads. The venting clearence is set to spec. When I bleed the brakes I do not see any air in the fluid. Do not see any leaks anywhere. I have run about 3 qts fluid through trying to get firm pedal with no luck. I am using a power bleeder.
any ideas what is wrong? Jerry |
Cap'n Krusty |
Jun 27 2007, 05:31 PM
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#2
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Cap'n Krusty Group: Members Posts: 10,794 Joined: 24-June 04 From: Santa Maria, CA Member No.: 2,246 Region Association: Central California |
"Set to spec"? What spec? The REAL spec is .004". Try that. After that, check the pushrod clearance. The Cap'n
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PeeGreen 914 |
Jun 27 2007, 05:33 PM
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#3
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Just when you think you're done...wait, there is more..lol Group: Members Posts: 10,219 Joined: 21-September 06 From: Seattle, WA... actually Everett Member No.: 6,884 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
All four corners bled? If so sounds like a strange problem. I don't use power bleeders as I like to have someone in actually pumping the pedal so I can crack the valve and see the fluid on each pump. Maybe try that way instead.
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dr914@autoatlanta.com |
Jun 27 2007, 05:35 PM
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#4
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 7,866 Joined: 3-January 07 From: atlanta georgia Member No.: 7,418 Region Association: None |
and are the bleeder nipples on the top??????????
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John |
Jun 27 2007, 05:36 PM
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#5
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member? what's a member? Group: Members Posts: 3,393 Joined: 30-January 04 From: Evansville, IN (SIRPCA) Member No.: 1,615 Region Association: None |
I have given up on most power bleeders that suck the fluid through the system.
I prefer bleeders that push fluid through the master cylinder and lines. I made my own pressure bleeder and it does a good job. I use air pressure to pressurize the reservoir. The good old pump and bleed, however, works really well and is hard to beat. I think sometimes a bubble can be trapped in the master cylinder and only will exit when the piston in the master cylinder is pumped. I had a master cylinder that would internally leak and caused a spongy pedal with no external leaks visible. Did you recently change any components? |
jmmotorsports |
Jun 27 2007, 05:44 PM
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#6
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Member Group: Members Posts: 308 Joined: 15-August 06 From: Kelso,Wa. Member No.: 6,658 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
I have given up on most power bleeders that suck the fluid through the system. I prefer bleeders that push fluid through the master cylinder and lines. I made my own pressure bleeder and it does a good job. I use air pressure to pressurize the reservoir. The good old pump and bleed, however, works really well and is hard to beat. I think sometimes a bubble can be trapped in the master cylinder and only will exit when the piston in the master cylinder is pumped. I had a master cylinder that would internally leak and caused a spongy pedal with no external leaks visible. Did you recently change any components? The bleeder I have pushes the fluid . |
dr914@autoatlanta.com |
Jun 27 2007, 05:46 PM
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#7
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 7,866 Joined: 3-January 07 From: atlanta georgia Member No.: 7,418 Region Association: None |
are the caliper bleeder nipples on the top of the calipers??????
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jmmotorsports |
Jun 27 2007, 05:47 PM
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#8
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Member Group: Members Posts: 308 Joined: 15-August 06 From: Kelso,Wa. Member No.: 6,658 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
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dr914@autoatlanta.com |
Jun 27 2007, 05:50 PM
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#9
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 7,866 Joined: 3-January 07 From: atlanta georgia Member No.: 7,418 Region Association: None |
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jmmotorsports |
Jun 27 2007, 06:03 PM
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#10
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Member Group: Members Posts: 308 Joined: 15-August 06 From: Kelso,Wa. Member No.: 6,658 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
and are the bleeder nipples on the top?????????? the rear calipers have them on top and bottom. i have blead both if the fronts have the bleeders on the bottom they will never bleed fronts are on the top. 911 SC |
PeeGreen 914 |
Jun 27 2007, 06:06 PM
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#11
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Just when you think you're done...wait, there is more..lol Group: Members Posts: 10,219 Joined: 21-September 06 From: Seattle, WA... actually Everett Member No.: 6,884 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Just grab someone and do the pump and bleed method. If still mushy after that then we can count that out. I do think that will help though.
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McMark |
Jun 27 2007, 06:10 PM
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#12
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914 Freak! Group: Retired Admin Posts: 20,179 Joined: 13-March 03 From: Grand Rapids, MI Member No.: 419 Region Association: None |
I'm a fan of this method. Long clear tubes that run from the bleeders to the reservoir. Open them all up and pump for 30 minutes or so. This get's most of the air out without wasting a ton of brake fluid. And to state the obvious, I only use this technique after the brake fluid has been flushed completely with new fluid.
Attached image(s) |
Hammy |
Jun 27 2007, 07:14 PM
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#13
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mr. Wonderful Group: Members Posts: 1,826 Joined: 20-October 04 From: Columbia, California Member No.: 2,978 Region Association: Northern California |
I'm a fan of this method. Long clear tubes that run from the bleeders to the reservoir. Open them all up and pump for 30 minutes or so. This get's most of the air out without wasting a ton of brake fluid. And to state the obvious, I only use this technique after the brake fluid has been flushed completely with new fluid. Dats the way to do it. I've done it this way and it works.... With speedbleeders right? |
McMark |
Jun 27 2007, 10:43 PM
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#14
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914 Freak! Group: Retired Admin Posts: 20,179 Joined: 13-March 03 From: Grand Rapids, MI Member No.: 419 Region Association: None |
I've never used speedbleeders. Works fine with normal bleeders. Because the lines are filled with fluid there is no danger of 'sucking in air'. So just pump away. It's work plenty of times for me.
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IronHillRestorations |
Jun 27 2007, 11:26 PM
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#15
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I. I. R. C. Group: Members Posts: 6,719 Joined: 18-March 03 From: West TN Member No.: 439 Region Association: None |
I've been doing the air over method for about 15 years now. Works good. I just put a spare tire valve on a reservoir cap and use about 10psi or so to push the fluid through the system.
I like the long tube thing too. |
andys |
Jun 27 2007, 11:53 PM
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#16
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,165 Joined: 21-May 03 From: Valencia, CA Member No.: 721 Region Association: None |
I suspect there's some very basic and fundamental reason you're having a problem. Check ALL the basics; I suspect you may have missed something.
Hands down best method when all else fails, is to reverse bleed. With a pressurized remote reservoir of fluid, push the fluid from the caliper to the master one system/side at a time. Do it a second time after sitting over night. If it's a race car, do it again after the first practice session. Andys |
PRS914-6 |
Jun 28 2007, 12:11 AM
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#17
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Excellence Magazine Project 914 3.6 Group: Retired Members Posts: 1,278 Joined: 20-May 06 From: Central California Member No.: 6,031 Region Association: None |
Make sure you pump gentle. The more you aerate what air is in there, the longer it will take to get out..
I always bleed the system with a pressure bleeder and come back the next day and put my wife to work pumping (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smoke.gif) manually. Build pressure and release. This gets some velocity in the lines and moves the pesky bubbles stuck in the high spots. Also, make sure the vent in the side of the MC reservoir is not plugged or you will have a real soft pedal. |
dimitri |
Jun 28 2007, 01:44 PM
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#18
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dimitri Group: Members Posts: 101 Joined: 16-March 05 From: Cupertino,CA Member No.: 3,769 |
Assumption is that the new part must be good. Recently installed new master
cylinder in neighbors car and had the same problem. New master cylinder was no good. Dimitri (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) |
Rav914 |
Jun 29 2007, 10:42 AM
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#19
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All-weather fan Group: Members Posts: 738 Joined: 15-April 07 From: WA Member No.: 7,669 Region Association: None |
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) Man can I empathize. I have the EXACT same problem. My power bleeder isn't doing the trick and I couldn't figure out what else to do. So I did a search and came across this thread. I have done the following:
All four calipers professionally rebuilt Stainless steel brake lines New rotors & pads New master cylinder (19mm) Flushed about four bottles of fluid through the system. And still, I can push the pedal to the floor. Feels like stepping on a rotten mango. Initially I thought it was a bad master cylinder, so I bought a new 19mm one. But that didn't fix the problem. $$ouch! I'll be doing the method with the tubes in a circuit. That sounds like a solid plan. I can't ask my wife for help. I did that once already and it was an agonizing experience for both of us. I don't like asking friends to help either and I figure there's enough good mechs out there running a shop by themselves who aren't crippled when a brake job comes their way. So I should be able to do this myself. Best of luck to you. |
Rav914 |
Jun 29 2007, 10:49 AM
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#20
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All-weather fan Group: Members Posts: 738 Joined: 15-April 07 From: WA Member No.: 7,669 Region Association: None |
Also, make sure the vent in the side of the MC reservoir is not plugged or you will have a real soft pedal. Wait.....is that the little black nubbin right on the brake light connector? If so, I left that on. If not, please enlighten me to where this vent may be. (I'm keeping my fingers crossed this is the solution) |
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