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> Oil Gallery plugs- Tools, Parts, Tips
cgnj
post Dec 14 2003, 03:23 PM
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Hi,
In the past I have paid to have gallerys plugged. I have another engine and think that this is omething I can do myself. So here are my questions.

Three sizes of NPT pipe tap are required. 1/8, 1/4, and 3/8. Is more than one style of each required? Or can it all be done with a tapered or other style of tap?

Should the plugs be tapered? If so where does one get such plugs? Or better yet a link to Mcmaster for the correct type of plug. What material? Where do you get them?

Are any of the plug locations a problem, like the depth is very different that the others, or seating the plug too depp restricting oil flow?

Enlighten me.


Carlos
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Mark Henry
post Dec 14 2003, 04:27 PM
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I do it on all engines I do, use the NPT thread, it is tapered.

I use the steel plugs, you can torque them in better. As you tap test a plug to see if it's deep enough. If you look carefully you can see how deep to go.

I use a dent puller to remove the old plugs.

You can get the plugs at any plumbing supply house and most hardware stores.
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URY914
post Dec 14 2003, 07:26 PM
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Mark,
Do you have any pictures of the pieces required?
Taps, plugs etc.

Thanks,
Paul
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Jake Raby
post Dec 14 2003, 07:31 PM
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What you need:

9/16" drill bit
5 galley plugs (tapered) with 3/8 NPT threads
3/8 NPT tap

Thats really about it... I'll be selling a kit for this in my parts store. It will have all the goodies ready to go with detailed instructions to boot.
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URY914
post Dec 14 2003, 07:34 PM
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Jake,
you come through again. Some time in Febuary?

Thanks,
Paul
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Jake Raby
post Dec 14 2003, 07:37 PM
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Yep.....
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Mark Henry
post Dec 14 2003, 09:03 PM
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I do the five 3/8"NPT, five 1/4"NPT and one 1/8' NPT

Any local flaps should have the taps, drill bits are easy and the are not hard to find as well.
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mightyohm
post Feb 16 2004, 08:51 PM
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Mark,

Do you remove headstuds to get to the galley plug on the right hand side of the case? I practiced on my junk case and was able to remove the studs easily, but the studs in my good case won't budge. I don't really want to disturb them if I don't have to for fear of stripping the threads or snapping them off.
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Jake Raby
post Feb 17 2004, 07:21 AM
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No head studs should need removing to get to the main oil galleys.........
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mightyohm
post Feb 17 2004, 11:14 AM
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Jake, I can get to all the big plugs just fine. It's the smaller one on the right hand side of the case (facing the drivers side of the car when the engine is installed) that is right in between two headstuds. I read in several places to just replace ALL the plugs so I removed all 11 of them.
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2-OH!
post Feb 17 2004, 02:31 PM
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Just a quick and really stupid question...Can it be done with the short block still assembled...Jake???

2-OH!
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Mark Henry
post Feb 17 2004, 02:46 PM
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QUOTE(2-OH! @ Feb 17 2004, 12:31 PM)
Just a quick and really stupid question...Can it be done with the short block still assembled...Jake???

2-OH!

No!

It must be cleaned after your done.

jkeyzer, thats the one i don't do, but you might be able to use an extension (backwards) on the tap or else you will have to remove the head studs.
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mightyohm
post Feb 17 2004, 03:20 PM
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Mark, thanks. I guess I took people too literally when they said to remove all of them. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/huh.gif)

It took me a while but I was able to remove the studs cleanly and get at the plug. I have a feeling that most people don't bother with all the small ones and just do the 5 big ones. Too late now!
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cgnj
post Mar 16 2004, 09:17 AM
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Did this on my test case. Of course it I have more questions.

I drilled until I completely expose the oil passage. Measure to the top of the passage and tapped to that depth. Some of the plugs will not be flush with the case surface. Is this normal and acceptable? Should I look for shallower plugs?

I edited this picture from TheSamba.com
The red arrow shows the plug in question. When tapping for this plug, there is interference from the case at the blue arrow. If you look closely at the pic, it appears that the case has been relived there. Is this acceptable? Should I be shopping for a specialty tap for this?

After doing this, I spent more time getting the parts and tools than actually doing the work. I had a spare case so I was fearless and that helps. No excuse for not doing this on any rebuild.

cgnj


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914werke
post Mar 16 2004, 10:40 AM
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QUOTE
What you need:
9/16" drill bit
5 galley plugs (tapered) with 3/8 NPT threads
3/8 NPT tap
Thats really about it... I'll be selling a kit for this in my parts store. It will have all the goodies ready to go with detailed instructions to boot.


What material plugs? Jake We have heard you go on about differing expansion rates between iron and alum on these engines. I would think this matters here as well?
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machina
post Mar 16 2004, 11:10 AM
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somewhere I read use steel only.

has different expansion rate but aluminum was NOT recomended because they would be impossible to remove.

not sure why you would want to remove them though

dr
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mightyohm
post Mar 16 2004, 11:17 AM
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removable is good because it lets you clean out the oil passages.

i read that also, that aluminum galls easily and will strip.

i am going to use steel plugs, aircooled.net carries a set.
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cgnj
post Mar 16 2004, 11:42 AM
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Pipe plugs
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Mark Henry
post Mar 16 2004, 12:53 PM
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I've tried them all, brass and aluminium it's to easy to strip out the hex. I use the steel, with a bit of locktite and torque them in good. Don't go crazy with a big cheater bar, just tight.

When you are threading with a tap, check the depth with a plug, too make sure you are deep enough. BUT be careful you don't go too deep with the drill bit and tap. The one flywheel hole has a galley for the cam close to the plug, so you don't want to block it off. A plug sticking a bit out is OK, as long as it doesn't interfere with anything else.

You can get the plugs at almost any hardware or plumbing supply store.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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URY914
post Mar 16 2004, 07:08 PM
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Make this a classic thread.
This is good info.

Paul
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