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> clutch slipping ..., can i ... ?
SirAndy
post Jul 20 2007, 03:58 AM
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so, tonight i was trying to get a feeling for my recent suspension setup changes and i tried to do a "spirited" takeoff, and i got a lot of noise (rpm) and just a little bit tire-squeal and not much oomph ...

and then it smelled very much like burned clutch ...


coincidentally, i got a brand new clutch and pressure plate (high torque) sitting right here next to me, so i guess now is probably a good time to put that in.


question is, can i (comfortably) change the clutch without completely removing the transmission?
i'd rather not disconnect the axles, if i don't have to.

if i support the engine with a jack, can i balance the tranny on another jack and move it far enough backwards to get to the clutch ????
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) Andy
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jwalters
post Jul 20 2007, 05:53 AM
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QUOTE(SirAndy @ Jul 20 2007, 05:58 AM) *

so, tonight i was trying to get a feeling for my recent suspension setup changes and i tried to do a "spirited" takeoff, and i got a lot of noise (rpm) and just a little bit tire-squeal and not much oomph ...

and then it smelled very much like burned clutch ...


coincidentally, i got a brand new clutch and pressure plate (high torque) sitting right here next to me, so i guess now is probably a good time to put that in.


question is, can i (comfortably) change the clutch without completely removing the transmission?
i'd rather not disconnect the axles, if i don't have to.

if i support the engine with a jack, can i balance the tranny on another jack and move it far enough backwards to get to the clutch ????
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) Andy


Well Andy, I believe you can do that. I went out to the shop and got a used complete axle. By placing on a table to keep all components in-line, I then deflected it to the fullest extent possible (this to simulate attached to the stubs) and the total movement was like 7 inches. So I would think, being the mechanically savvy person you are, if you can get just 6 inches, your golden..



BTW - I think there is a joke wrapped up in here somewhere -- (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

J
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degreeoff
post Jul 20 2007, 08:22 AM
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well my opinion (unless your hotrod has a different setup) is why ?? It seems to me workin in such a confined area would be a bigger PIA than just pullin the trans.

My $.02
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echocanyons
post Jul 20 2007, 12:06 PM
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FWIW I have had trouble realigning the 6 engine and trans while under the car.

Because of this I just yank the whole thing and separate when I have too.

It's only like 12cv bolts or something right?

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Chris Pincetich
post Jul 20 2007, 12:25 PM
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Lining up the clutch disk in the centerline w/o a good view or access for a alignment tool might be very difficult.

I say go for it! You might be able to swing the transaxle down to the ground, at least until the tail bumps inot the trunk floor, to get more access. Once the CVs come apart, gotta think new gaskets and washers....maybe.

Getter done! This is a big weekend for AX racing in NorCal, I'd hate for you to miss out completely. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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SirAndy
post Jul 20 2007, 12:29 PM
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QUOTE(ChrisNPDrider @ Jul 20 2007, 10:25 AM) *

Getter done! This is a big weekend for AX racing in NorCal, I'd hate for you to miss out completely. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)


i don't have time to work on it today, so i might just show up and run with a slipping clutch ....
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) Andy
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McMark
post Jul 20 2007, 05:02 PM
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You could probably gain enough access by allowing the transmission to droop, rotating at the axles. You would probably need two jacks to adequately support the weird movements.
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2-OH!
post Jul 20 2007, 05:47 PM
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Andy,

If you didn't have a MILLION HP you wouldn't have this problem...

2-OH!
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J P Stein
post Jul 20 2007, 06:16 PM
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Don't run (AX) with a slipping clutch. If it slips in 1st it's going to slip worse in 2nd on up should you tip hard into the throttle. It could overheat the face of the flywheel/shread the disc then you would have to have the flywheel surfaced. No sense adding to your woes, eh?
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