Good inexpensive paint? Options

[Richard Casto]

I am also interested in an answer to the OP original question...

While I may go single stage, I am looking for opinions/recommendations on the best bang for the buck BC/CC system (brand and product line). I have been trying to find the time to drop by a local paint jobber to get their opinion (they sell Dupont and maybe others), but I am curious to what others have used and liked.

FYI.. I am going to be starting at base metal.

[DonTraver]

Cheapest would be MACCO or Earl shibe (I know, way off on spelling). If you get it ready, body work, prep, etc. Won't be world class, but good for 5 feet depending on your prep work.

Good Luck

[RON S.]

In the FWIW department,I've painted my car 2-3 times over the last 10yrs.

The first time was with plain old single stage enamel,

each time I painted something I bought a higher grade of paint.

What I have found,is that you do get what you pay for.

The higher quality results come from higher quality paints.Thats not to say that you can't get a good finish from a cheaper paint,but you'll definitely notice the difference in how easy or hard it is to lay a smooth glass like finish.


The last finish I laid on my car was using BASF Diamont BC/CC. Signal Orange. Painted it all right out in the yard. The kit was about $450.00 That is a lot of scratch.However,the result speaks for itself,and to the color sanding I did on it a week later took far less than I expected.
I probably spent 700 bucks or so on materials,But I'm satisfied with the result.
What ever you use,the key is gonna be to follup the job with a good color sanding and buff job.
All that really matters is that YOU like the finished product.

Ron

[RON S.]

In the FWIW department,I've painted my car 2-3 times over the last 10yrs.

The first time was with plain old single stage enamel,

each time I painted something I bought a higher grade of paint.

What I have found,is that you do get what you pay for.

The higher quality results come from higher quality paints.Thats not to say that you can't get a good finish from a cheaper paint,but you'll definitely notice the difference in how easy or hard it is to lay a smooth glass like finish.


The last finish I laid on my car was using BASF Diamont BC/CC. Signal Orange. Painted it all right out in the yard. The kit was about $450.00 That is a lot of scratch.However,the result speaks for itself,and to the color sanding I did on it a week later took far less than I expected.
I probably spent 700 bucks or so on materials,But I'm satisfied with the result.
What ever you use,the key is gonna be to followup the job with a good color sanding and buff job.
All that really matters is that YOU like the finished product.

Ron

[charliew]

In the FWIW department,I've painted my car 2-3 times over the last 10yrs.

The first time was with plain old single stage enamel,

each time I painted something I bought a higher grade of paint.

What I have found,is that you do get what you pay for.

The higher quality results come from higher quality paints.Thats not to say that you can't get a good finish from a cheaper paint,but you'll definitely notice the difference in how easy or hard it is to lay a smooth glass like finish.


The last finish I laid on my car was using BASF Diamont BC/CC. Signal Orange. Painted it all right out in the yard. The kit was about $450.00 That is a lot of scratch.However,the result speaks for itself,and to the color sanding I did on it a week later took far less than I expected.
I probably spent 700 bucks or so on materials,But I'm satisfied with the result.
What ever you use,the key is gonna be to followup the job with a good color sanding and buff job.
All that really matters is that YOU like the finished product.

Ron

Nice post and a nice paint job. I've been an amatuer painter since I was 17 yrs. old. I'm 62, I'll probably die of complications with breathing. I've had asthma since I was 13. I don't like respirators especially if its hot. I feel like they block my vision and my glasses don't set on my face as well. I usually try to paint with a big fan blowing the fumes away. The fan is 20 feet away. Anyway my experience has taught me to use the best paint I can afford. Cheaper paints fade and crack much sooner than expensive paints. Why would you spend two months prepping a car getting a perfectly straight body and then put a paint on that will probably dull in about three years? I like to only do things once if I possibly can. Once you have applied your paint if it turns to s##t you have to then remove it. Which is better spending another two months taking the old paint off or paying double for quality paint to start with? You say, I'll put a good paint on over this paint if it goes bad. Paints don't work well if the film thickness is too much. Also some paints will lift cheaper paints especially if you use too much thinner. As Zach was saying he added more filler to his surfacer primer to level some low spots. Thats something you usually have to do but should be avoided because it will probably show up when it shrinks in a couple of years especially if the surface is really smooth. I have never done a perfect paint job but they usually last several years most of them outside in the sun. With my painting shed I usually need to sand off 20% of the paint to remove bugs and dust sometimes less but I count on about 20% waste. Thats 1/5 of a gallon of paint that cost about 200.00. You could probably save some of this waste if you have a good paint enviorment. My paint jobs usually look very good for a daily driver. They usually are completely disassembled so the jams and rain gutters look good. Details are what makes a good paint job. If you apply tape, do it Like someone is behind you with a magnifying glass. If you use a guide coat on the first sanding of the sandable primer and all the ones afterward you will get a straight surface. It would be ideal to put enough filler on the first try to level the surface for the second coat of primer surfacer so the rest of the time your only leveling very small spots. A air long board is a good tool to use on flat areas with the first application of filler. Do it, it's the only way to learn. Good luck, Charlie

[scotty b]

Decent cheap 2 stage paint wou;ld be NASON ONLY to be used for an all over job. It looks pretty good but doesn't blend for sh#t so if you ever have a repair you will be best to reshoot the whole panel and pray it isn't to far off from the adjacent ones. I shot this car last year in NASON. Easy to werk with (THIN !!) Buy a gallon unreduced as it will take several coats to cover.

[derekdenman]

I just repainted my engine bay with single stage Omni paint. I spent about $150 on a pint of paint, primer, thinner and hardener. I am not saying that is a cheap way to go, just how much I spent. With that said I am very happy witht the results.

Also, my car had about a $600 paint job that the previous owner put on it about 6 years ago. The car already needs to be repainted as it has about 4 spots where a dollar size peice of paint has come off. Whats worse is that the original paint looks better then the respray.

[Jax914]

PPG sells a Shop-Line brand that worked well for me. BC/CC.