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> engine types?
Fyrmdk914
post Aug 10 2007, 12:54 PM
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What is the difference petween a type 3 and a type 4 engine? I need to replace the 1.8 in my 75, and the first good longblock deal I found is for an 1835 type 3. Will this work with my transmission? I will be running Delortos on this engine.
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rhodyguy
post Aug 10 2007, 12:58 PM
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Chimp Sanctuary NW. Check it out.
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where did you 'find' this "first good deal" and how much is it? just about everything is different. keep looking.

k
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Cap'n Krusty
post Aug 10 2007, 02:08 PM
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Agreed. It'll bolt up to the trans (well, with longer studs and bolts), but the starter and clutch won't work, and from there it's ALL downhill. The Cap'n
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blitZ
post Aug 10 2007, 02:14 PM
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Beer please...
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Stick with the type 4 and be careful of whom you buy from. Search their name here or ask, all engine builders are not equal. You might consider having yours rebuilt or doing it yourself.

and of course...

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png)
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Fyrmdk914
post Aug 10 2007, 02:30 PM
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Okay, I admit my lack of knowledge and experience. I have learned from here and phone calls that type 3 is not the way to go. I have been told that a good upgrade/modification would be to switch to hydraulic heads. Any feedback?
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Cap'n Krusty
post Aug 10 2007, 02:55 PM
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No difference in heads. Rather than wasting your time looking for, and getting, bad advice, just ask us. Ask good questions, LISTEN to the collective wisdom of the list, and you'll be fine. The Cap'n
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woobn8r
post Aug 10 2007, 04:11 PM
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for my $0.02

I'd say get your wallet out and put a flat six in there...

You know you should.....

And you're spending $ anyways...perfect timing.
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Fyrmdk914
post Aug 10 2007, 08:48 PM
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My mistake in wording i guess. I guess that I meant switching to the hydraulic cam and lifters? I am told that this eliminates the need for valve adjustments.
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JPB
post Aug 10 2007, 09:16 PM
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Valve adjustment is your last worry since its a sinch. You will spend all kinds of $$$$$ on this engine which will give you little performance. If you are starting from an empty engine bay, figure out what you want to spend and then look at all the options. Keep it under 300 HPs and low tork and then you will find something worth spending for. Jim Kelly got a fresh V8 with 300HP+ power for less than 1K which squeeled tires on every gear in a Chevelle or something similar. Subari is a great way to go or a Jake Raby Type4 engine rebuilt if you like the classic sound and look. There is no way to go cheap since it will cost in the end. The question is, what is the final product you really want? Take your time and get what you want. If the car is a good looking original then keep it that way since it is worth more the less you modify it. If this is the case, spend some good money on a built up T4 engine and have fun with it. A new Jake Raby engine will give you ALL the pleasure the car can give and keeps it original looking and running for a long time. It will hold a good dollar value in the end. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif)
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scotty b
post Aug 10 2007, 09:33 PM
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rust free you say ?
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First things first. What is wrong with the 1.8 that requires it to be replaced??
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JPB
post Aug 10 2007, 09:36 PM
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The Crimson Rocket smiles in your general direction.
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) If you don't want it, what do you want for it. I'll take the bugger. Does it run? PM me. I can't believe I missed this one. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif)
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