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> pic of lines exiting tunnel?
slim72914
post Aug 18 2007, 10:46 PM
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I am trying to install my stainless steel fuel lines on my 72 4 and have encountered some strange stuff where the lines exit the tunnel in to the engine compartment. anyone have a pic of how it should be??? this is how mine is.
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Not too sure whats up with the 1/4" steel plate on the clutch cable... Needless to say I have work to do before installing the stainless lines...
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Type 4 Unleashed
post Aug 18 2007, 11:05 PM
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It would look like the rest of the firewall, the plate was a make shift fix, the weld on the clutch tube to the firewall may have broke loose.

You'll have to remove the plate and check it out and repair it properly.
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slim72914
post Aug 19 2007, 12:00 AM
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I went back out and continued to take fuel lines and the clutch cable out so I could see what the heck is going on. someone decided it was a good idea to just cut into the back end of the tunnel to patch the original fuel line with a short length of rubber hose. In the process they destroyed the area where the clutch cable comes through... very very nice... Should the clutch cable run through a metal tube in the tunnel or is it a cable with a flexible housing? are both fuel lines suppose to have their own grommets where they pop through?? Pic with fuel lines removed.
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orange914
post Aug 19 2007, 01:10 AM
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hope this might help
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orange914
post Aug 19 2007, 01:11 AM
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slim72914
post Aug 19 2007, 01:25 AM
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QUOTE(orange914 @ Aug 19 2007, 12:11 AM) *

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Yes that helps alot! Ill have to make a plate with the holes in it as close as I can get them to the right place... maybe just cut out the old f'ed up part.... thanks!
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Phoenix-MN
post Aug 19 2007, 07:49 AM
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Here's another angle that might help (with Tangerine SS lines)
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Paul
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jasons
post Aug 19 2007, 09:45 AM
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So do you even have the tube that runs through the tunnel for the clutch cable?

It looks like this was (poorly) fixed once.



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rhodyguy
post Aug 19 2007, 10:17 AM
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there's a sawsall party in colorado today. if the year is right, and that section is servicable, place your order for the firewall section. be generous with the demensions.

k
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Bartlett 914
post Aug 19 2007, 10:30 AM
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Here is a picture of my car showing the tubes in the tunnel before I welded in the rear floor pans. It almost looks like your clutch tube was removed. It should be welded in at both ends. Often the weld at the front breaks. This adds additional stress at the firewall breaking this weld also. Maybe this picture will help you visualize what it should look like.


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slim72914
post Aug 19 2007, 10:59 AM
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It was indeed very poorly fixed once... There is no tube at all for the clutch cable. It is just loose in the tunnel. (new cable already ordered). Who has the firewall patch panels? I may just made an aluminum plate with the tube on it for the clutch cable and put come screws into the good part of the firewall and remove the old "repairs" all together. A sheet metal saw is a beautiful thing.
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So.Cal.914
post Aug 19 2007, 11:15 AM
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QUOTE(rhodyguy @ Aug 19 2007, 09:17 AM) *

there's a sawsall party in colorado today. if the year is right, and that section is servicable, place your order for the firewall section. be generous with the demensions.

k

QUOTE

Who has the firewall patch panels? I may just made an aluminum plate with the tube on it for the clutch cable and put come screws into the good part of the firewall and remove the old "repairs" all together. A sheet metal saw is a beautiful thing.


Or you could take rhodyguy up on his offer and fix it right. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

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rhodyguy
post Aug 19 2007, 11:34 AM
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the party is mentioned/detailed in the classifieds. i think the section in the 74' i have is still good, but the pictures posted show his car as orig a tailshifter.

k
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slim72914
post Aug 20 2007, 11:49 PM
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I like to do stuff the wrong way so ill machine me a little plate and screw it in there. Thanks though!
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Bartlett 914
post Aug 21 2007, 01:20 PM
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The repair I made on mine as shown in the picture is from AA About 125.00 The area around the shifter was a lot of work. There is a backing plate missing and the flange for the shifter boot is missing. You may not need that at all. I cut it in half to get it in. A donor part or a new panel using the section that is damaged is your best bet. Loose clutch tubes will cause real poor clutch / shifting problems. Do a search on broken clutch tubes. The repair is really not that difficult. Lots of luck.
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dinomium
post Aug 21 2007, 01:36 PM
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QUOTE(rhodyguy @ Aug 19 2007, 10:34 AM) *

the party is mentioned/detailed in the classifieds. i think the section in the 74' i have is still good, but the pictures posted show his car as orig a tailshifter.

k

my '70 is not a good donor either, sorry.
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John
post Aug 21 2007, 03:56 PM
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Here is a picture of mine. Sorry it's not a real close up, but I have a few more pictures somewhere in my BLOG.

SS fuel lines
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slim72914
post Aug 21 2007, 10:08 PM
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OK I got to digging around again last night and found that the rest of the clutch tube was still in the tunnel. Loose without the clutch cable running through it... Very nice. Does it really NEED the metal tube to run through or is it having a tube tu press against at the firewall good enough? Starting to think about getting me a 110 welder and welding the tube back in place to a patch section. Any ideas?
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Bartlett 914
post Aug 22 2007, 08:58 AM
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Yes you need the tube! It must be welded to the rear AND the front. The weld in the front is easy. Search! There are several threads that show a couple of ways to do this. I think the best is by cutting a section at the top of the tunnel near where the tube should end, making the repair and welding the tunnel back together. Really not difficult. If you want more detailed pictures of where all these tubes go, ask or search. I can post some of mine. Other pictures are here already.
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slim72914
post Aug 23 2007, 12:55 AM
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So what is the most important part of the clutch tube? The exit point at the firewall is where all the load is correct? And the tube just guides it to the correct location with out getting in the way of anything? Im asking because my clutch tube looks like about 3 inches is missing off the end where it SHOULD come out the firewall. So if I weld the tube back in place and extend it with a sleeve to come to the firewall and weld the patch in to the firewall should it work correctly? this way if it breaks again it is only breaking the firewall piece not the entire tube??? Seems like this could all be prevented by thinking of some better way to reenforce the firewall/tube...
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