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> My engine temps are high...real high, Paging Jake Raby
purple
post Sep 14 2007, 10:06 AM
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Let me get your guys' opinion. I think I found a header setup from patrick motorsports (awesome to me, since my name's patrick too!)


It's $788, a thousand less than a tangerine and god only knows how much SSI's and a bursch would cost, and i dont need HE's since I never plan on putting heat in this car.

I've attached a pic of it. Let me know if you guys have any experience with this setup.

Thanks in advance!!


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purple
post Sep 14 2007, 10:09 AM
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Here is a pic of the driver's side cylinders. There should be a metal plate that guides the air, right? The passenger side has what's called a 'baffle plate' according to pelican. I can see the screw hole where it would mount too.


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purple
post Sep 14 2007, 10:11 AM
Post #23


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And for those that doubt it... Here are pics of the heads, at least as much of a pic as I can get, it's hard to swing a camcorder around under there and I can zoom out only so much with the limited clearance I have under there.

See...AMC heads.

I'm not even doubting that this is a bus engine. The person who did this to my car can probably be best described as 'ham-fisted'.



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toon1
post Sep 14 2007, 10:52 AM
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QUOTE(purple @ Sep 14 2007, 09:09 AM) *

Here is a pic of the driver's side cylinders. There should be a metal plate that guides the air, right? The passenger side has what's called a 'baffle plate' according to pelican. I can see the screw hole where it would mount too.



There is supposed to be a plate/baffle there.

It's possible to install it wil the motor in the car.

all the PR tutubes and push rods need to be removed and anything else that might be in the way.

The screw that mounts the plate to the head has a fine thread and might be difficult to find. There are also 1 or 2 screws that fasten the plate to the engine case.

These are very inportant, they hepl create pressure around the cyl's.


You are still better of oulling the motor.
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purple
post Sep 14 2007, 04:45 PM
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Exactly how far apart does the engine need to come apart to remove the pushrods? Do i have to pull the rocker arms? Do the heads need to be removed?

i've ordered the parts from pelican, but like anything with these cars, the parts are findable, putting them in is the bitch.
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PeeGreen 914
post Sep 14 2007, 06:09 PM
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It has been a while since I have done any work to a four, but if I remember you just need to take the vavle cover off, remove the lifters/ rocker arms, and they are right there. You can even pul the push rod tubes as well to change the little O-ring on them. I think there may be a few things I am forgetting, but it really isn't very hard if I remember.

Oh... there is a retainer spring in there somewhere.
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toon1
post Sep 14 2007, 06:22 PM
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QUOTE(purple @ Sep 14 2007, 03:45 PM) *

Exactly how far apart does the engine need to come apart to remove the pushrods? Do i have to pull the rocker arms? Do the heads need to be removed?

i've ordered the parts from pelican, but like anything with these cars, the parts are findable, putting them in is the bitch.


YES all of the rockers have to come out.

No the heads do not need to be removed.

You are far better off pulling the motor. It will give you so much more acess.

Pulling the motor is no big deal, I pulled mine in 1.5 hrs by myself.
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thomasotten
post Sep 14 2007, 06:52 PM
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Jakes engine kits were on sale today.... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

This is one of the things you are missing.


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purple
post Sep 14 2007, 10:27 PM
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thanks thomas! i didnt realize exactly how 'affixed' that part is to the engine. looks like the pushrods and tubes have to come out
I have one of those on order from pelican(hopefully the proper one)

i ordered that exhaust...i figure silence means 'it'll work'

now i'm seriously going to buy a creeper, i'm sick of inchworming to get under the car.

any tips on removing the exhaust that's on there... anything that doesnt immediately meet the eye?

Thanks guys, you rock my socks
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jk76.914
post Sep 15 2007, 07:26 AM
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That missing baffle could be your biggest single problem, of the many you have. It restricts the air from going around the cooler parts of the cylinders and head- doesn't stop it, just offers restriction. More air then takes the path of least resistance, which is the hotter areas. It also forces the air to curve around the bottoms of the cylinders. Without it, the bottom sides of the barrels would be way undercooled, leading to weird distortion of the barrel at temp.

Anyway, if you only have it on the passenger side, the entire driver's side is a path of least resistance, so much more air will flow to the driver's side. Since your temp gauge is on #3, you're measuring the side that's getting less than adequate air flow. I suppose it'd be interesting to relocate the temp sender to the driver's side and measure the temp, but I wouldn't drive it at all, even for a test like this, until this baffle is in place.

I personally wouldn't pull the engine to replace this. After the exhaust is off, just take the valve covers and rockers off, pull the pushrod tubes, and you're there. While the pushrod tubes are off, carefully pull a couple of lifters- one at a time- and inspect for wear. Also, look at the cam lobe with a flashlight for wear as well.

Jim
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thomasotten
post Sep 15 2007, 08:48 AM
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You should soak your exhaust studs with PB blaster or WD40 a few days ahead of time. Be sure to pray while you try to back out the exhaust stud nuts... seriously.
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BMartin914
post Sep 15 2007, 10:58 AM
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QUOTE(thomasotten @ Sep 15 2007, 06:48 AM) *

You should soak your exhaust studs with PB blaster or WD40 a few days ahead of time. Be sure to pray while you try to back out the exhaust stud nuts... seriously.


If the exhaust studs are rusty and you fear breaking them off, heat them to red hot, then turn them out. Works every time.
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purple
post Sep 20 2007, 11:12 AM
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soo...I had to go to friggen GERMANY to get the engine tin that's missing on this car. I know you guys have some stuff, but this is a sure thing.
http://www.mittelmotor.de/

is the place to go. They're really friendly and have pretty much anything.

The mallory came from Raby two days ago along with the promaster coil and ballast resistor....baby, this is gonna be a good weekend.

Also picked up a timing light, how do you measure advance?
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toon1
post Sep 20 2007, 12:21 PM
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QUOTE(purple @ Sep 20 2007, 10:12 AM) *

soo...I had to go to friggen GERMANY to get the engine tin that's missing on this car. I know you guys have some stuff, but this is a sure thing.
http://www.mittelmotor.de/

is the place to go. They're really friendly and have pretty much anything.

The mallory came from Raby two days ago along with the promaster coil and ballast resistor....baby, this is gonna be a good weekend.

Also picked up a timing light, how do you measure advance?


I would have sent you a set for the price of shipping. Should've asked
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purple
post Sep 20 2007, 01:58 PM
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I know toon....but here my birthday is coming up and my mom speaks german as her mother tongue and is eager to help in this project so..... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/barf.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)
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toon1
post Sep 20 2007, 02:06 PM
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QUOTE(purple @ Sep 20 2007, 12:58 PM) *

I know toon....but here my birthday is coming up and my mom speaks german as her mother tongue and is eager to help in this project so..... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer3.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/barf.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)


It's hard to beat FREE!!
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purple
post Sep 20 2007, 02:45 PM
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Word to that toon
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Jake Raby
post Sep 20 2007, 03:12 PM
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QUOTE(purple @ Sep 20 2007, 10:12 AM) *

soo...I had to go to friggen GERMANY to get the engine tin that's missing on this car. I know you guys have some stuff, but this is a sure thing.
http://www.mittelmotor.de/

is the place to go. They're really friendly and have pretty much anything.

The mallory came from Raby two days ago along with the promaster coil and ballast resistor....baby, this is gonna be a good weekend.

Also picked up a timing light, how do you measure advance?



I have ALL the sheetmetal and dozens of each piece in my stockpile cheap, because our conversions don't use it...
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purple
post Sep 20 2007, 03:42 PM
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well now that i know that, if i get the wrong stuff I'll know two guys to call.

I wonder what my stock timing is. I was reading that 2 degrees of timing is worth 50 degrees and 10 hp from jake. Methinks my stock timing is a pile of doody

i hope i do a good job on this mallory, i dont wanna destroy something so pretty.
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purple
post Sep 20 2007, 03:45 PM
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My question jake et al. is do you have the thermostat bellows, pulley, etc? would this help my engine? does it matter all that much?

You see, my car came with like...nothing.
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