 Need help identifying installed part, ...near starter.. aftermarket? |
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| stateofidleness |
 Sep 17 2007, 07:15 PM
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#1
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Senior Member  Group: Members Posts: 810 Joined: 1-September 07 From: Canyon Lake, Texas! Member No.: 8,065 Region Association: None  |
Hey fellas, need some help here.. finally got the car to where i can get a look underneath to diagnose my starting problem.. so i go to check the starter with a voltmeter (which i probably did wrong btw lol) and i see this thing mounted next to it that im not sure what it is.. it looks "newish" so i thought it might be aftermarket. my guess is the PO had the same starting problems and this was band-aid of sorts instead of a fix. am i right? or a complete idiot? also, why isnt it hooked up to anything?
also if it helps.. might not even be related.. but it appears that there was a "security system" installed on the car which i removed (a horn in the front trunk and a shock sensor under the dash..) could this be part of a security system of sorts?  |
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Replies(1 - 19)
| thomasotten |
Sep 17 2007, 07:23 PM
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#2
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,546 Joined: 16-November 03 From: San Antonio, Texas Member No.: 1,349 |
That's a Ford solenoid, it boosts the existing solenoid. I have one on my car.
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| stateofidleness |
Sep 17 2007, 07:25 PM
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#3
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 810 Joined: 1-September 07 From: Canyon Lake, Texas! Member No.: 8,065 Region Association: None |
why aint it hooked up to anything?
lol thomas you're the only one that responds to my threads.. maybe i should just PM you from now on heh |
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| SLITS |
Sep 17 2007, 07:26 PM
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#4
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"This Utah shit is HARSH!" Group: Benefactors Posts: 13,602 Joined: 22-February 04 From: SoCal Mountains ... Member No.: 1,696 Region Association: None  |
Otherwise know as the "hot start relay" ... Bosch makes a kit too .... a poor quick fix for a wiring problem.
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| SLITS |
Sep 17 2007, 07:27 PM
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#5
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"This Utah shit is HARSH!" Group: Benefactors Posts: 13,602 Joined: 22-February 04 From: SoCal Mountains ... Member No.: 1,696 Region Association: None |
It ain't hooked up 'cause someone fixed the original problem.
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| thomasotten |
Sep 17 2007, 07:31 PM
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#6
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,546 Joined: 16-November 03 From: San Antonio, Texas Member No.: 1,349 |
Yeah, this board is usually busier. Do a search, here and on google, you should find some diagrams. It is a very common modification. Your looks like it was once hooked up, but then disconnected. Funny how they just left the wires hangin, and there is some electrical tape there.
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| stateofidleness |
Sep 17 2007, 08:04 PM
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#7
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 810 Joined: 1-September 07 From: Canyon Lake, Texas! Member No.: 8,065 Region Association: None |
do you think hooking it back up would harm it? maybe it might help?
how would i hook it up.. i figured it was a hard start kit of sorts |
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| purple |
Sep 17 2007, 08:08 PM
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#8
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Pigeon feeders attract me Group: Members Posts: 938 Joined: 24-July 07 From: Houston, TX Member No.: 7,942 Region Association: None |
i take issue with the definition.
it's a RELAY to back up the stock starter RELAY. The SOLENOID is the little can to the side of the starter that when energized by the RELAY pushes the starter gear forward to mesh with the flywheel. this extra box doesnt BOOST, it BYPASSES |
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| jd74914 |
Sep 17 2007, 08:08 PM
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#9
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Its alive Group: Members Posts: 4,780 Joined: 16-February 04 From: CT Member No.: 1,659 Region Association: North East States |
If the car starts ok, don't hook it back up. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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| stateofidleness |
Sep 17 2007, 08:21 PM
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#10
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 810 Joined: 1-September 07 From: Canyon Lake, Texas! Member No.: 8,065 Region Association: None |
QUOTE(jd74914 @ Sep 17 2007, 09:08 PM)  welllll it doesn't lol. been spending the last couple of days waiting on the manual and seeing what i can do to diagnose the no-start situation... thing is, it runs and runs great once started, but key-starting it doesnt work.. i dont even get a "click".. all i hear is what sounds to be a liquid of sorts near the gas tank area, but nothing cranks... i was gonna replace the starter, but id like to test it first.. not too sure how though.. i will keep scouring the forum for good how to on starter problems EDIT: and i agree on the bypassing, not really boosting |
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| Dave_Darling |
Sep 17 2007, 08:43 PM
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#11
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914 Idiot Group: Members Posts: 14,990 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Silicon Valley / Kailua-Kona Member No.: 121 Region Association: Northern California 
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QUOTE(purple @ Sep 17 2007, 06:08 PM) it's a RELAY to back up the stock starter RELAY. There is no "stock starter RELAY". The solenoid itself acts as a relay, switching the main battery power directly to the starter when the yellow wire goes "hot". The RELAY boosts the voltage going to the trigger connection on the solenoid. So it really is a BOOSTER, not a BYPASS... --DD |
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| purple |
Sep 17 2007, 08:44 PM
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#12
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Pigeon feeders attract me Group: Members Posts: 938 Joined: 24-July 07 From: Houston, TX Member No.: 7,942 Region Association: None |
booster relay ? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif)
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| stateofidleness |
Sep 17 2007, 09:34 PM
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#13
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 810 Joined: 1-September 07 From: Canyon Lake, Texas! Member No.: 8,065 Region Association: None |
so any input as how to wire that thing up? for testing purposes.. if it doesnt do anything, i might remove it
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| SLITS |
Sep 17 2007, 11:30 PM
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#14
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"This Utah shit is HARSH!" Group: Benefactors Posts: 13,602 Joined: 22-February 04 From: SoCal Mountains ... Member No.: 1,696 Region Association: None |
If you have a "no start" with the key ...
1.) Check the engine ground .... strap at end of transmission to body ... clean the connections. 2.) Add a second ground .... say blower housing to motor bar mount. 3.) Switch on back of key cylinder could be cracked and not making contact internally. 4.) Contacts on relay board could be corroded .... both the 14 pin main and 12 pin engine harness .... clean contacts. After that ..... starter or solenoid on starter could be bad .... Use screwdriver or needle nose pliers to jump between spade terminal and battery lead ..... starter turns and engages .... starter is good. |
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| stateofidleness |
Sep 17 2007, 11:35 PM
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#15
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 810 Joined: 1-September 07 From: Canyon Lake, Texas! Member No.: 8,065 Region Association: None |
wow cool ill try those things
i crawled under there today and im not sure i even have a transmission ground? does that sound possible? and to check the key cylinder, jsut pop off the steering wheel and go to town? think i saw a how to on that on pelican thanks! |
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| Chris Pincetich |
Sep 18 2007, 12:03 PM
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#16
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B-) Group: Members Posts: 2,082 Joined: 3-October 05 From: Point Reyes Station, CA Member No.: 4,907 Region Association: Northern California |
My no-start was solved by more juice and better ground.
Have you tried jump starting from another car? If that works, you need a new(er) battery. My ground post on the body was full of rust, so I now hove the battery ground bolted to the fan housing (grounded to block, transaxle, body at ground strap). Haynes Manual+the site with *search* = solved 90% of 914 problems (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) |
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| swl |
Sep 18 2007, 12:53 PM
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#17
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,409 Joined: 7-August 05 From: Kingston,On,Canada Member No.: 4,550 Region Association: Canada |
QUOTE(stateofidleness @ Sep 17 2007, 09:35 PM) i crawled under there today and im not sure i even have a transmission ground? does that sound possible? Possible but not probable. It goes from the transmission up to the floor of the trunk. Without it there is no solid ground between the starter and the Neg of the battery. I've heard that the current will try to use your throttle and clutch cable to get to ground if there is no ground strap is installed. - results can be pretty severe. There was a thread a while back where it was suggested to run the ground from the neg of the battery directly to the transmission. Then from the transmission to the body through the normal ground strap. I really like that one and am going to try it when I replace the engine. It means that the High current stuff - starter and alternator, have a really solid root to ground. |
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| ruddyboys |
Sep 18 2007, 01:08 PM
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#18
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Hummel eigentümer Group: Members Posts: 594 Joined: 3-March 04 From: Monroe, NY Member No.: 1,749 Region Association: North East States |
If the yellow wire, that is connected to the red wire (for some reason) that goes to the solenoid, should not be bare, it could touch (or is it touching, hard to tell) some bare metal and ground out.
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| stateofidleness |
Sep 19 2007, 12:07 AM
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#19
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 810 Joined: 1-September 07 From: Canyon Lake, Texas! Member No.: 8,065 Region Association: None |
its got like a rubber coating around the connection and it's not touching anything else
can anyone label all the wires in that pic for me? still dont know how i would wire up that booster relay |
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| swl |
Sep 19 2007, 07:06 AM
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#20
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,409 Joined: 7-August 05 From: Kingston,On,Canada Member No.: 4,550 Region Association: Canada |
I don't know that relay at all but the basic concept is something like this.
The yellow wire normally energizes the solenoid. In 'hot start' mode it instead goes to the coil of the relay - probably what that red extension is for. The other side of the coil goes to ground. Then you take 12V from the fat red on the solenoid and take it up to the contacts. Other side of the contact comes down to where the yellow wire normally hooks up. My guess is that is what the 2 orange wires are for. Polarity doesn't matter - it is just a switch. The theory is that the relay takes a lot less current to trip than does the solenoid. The low current trips the relay which provides the larger current to solenoid. This can make up for contact resistance in the route from the starter switch back to the solenoid. Masks the underlying problem. It can be argued that it is better for the starter switch because you are pushing less current through it. The down side is that you have more complexity - more to go wrong |
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