adjusting the shift linkage Options

[SirAndy]

You will look an ass trying to drag race in a 914...just FYI

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)


bring some cones and set up a slalom on the drag strip ...

that way, you'll have a much better chance of leaving the venue with a intact ego.
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) Andy

[mrhurtalot]

You will look an ass trying to drag race in a 914...just FYI

Just FYI.. its not drag racing.. its kids just driving up and down the main street. its a looong straight road, and a lot of kids there have cars with "fart cans" on them, thought i show them what a real car can sound like (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Don't forget to check your bushings. If they are shot or missing, you might might not be able to get it adjusted no matter what you do - the rod will just be flopping around.

brand new bushings all the way down the rod. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[purple]

Check your tranny mounts... i have vague shifts and new bushings and it's my tranny mounts.

and a 'long straight' with 'fart can' cars, and youth, lots of youth, that will, my friend, turn into drag racing. Just you watch.

Our 'real cars' sound like beetles, few will be impressed. Not pissing on your wagon, but only a very few cool people appreciate these cars, like us. The rest only like it if it's got 24''s on it and a sclade badge with burberry bumpers or some tacky shit like that

[rhodyguy]

1. go under rear of car, remove clamp on large plastic cover, pull cover aside, manually put trans in third gear.
2. secure the rear rod where it passes thru the engine support bar with a pair of vice grips. one on either side of the bar. the rod should now be locked in place. try and move it forward and back. reclamp as ness.
3. remove the bolts that fasten the lever to the center tunnel. loosen the clamping nut on the shift lever to front rod coupling piece.
4. with the lever assem slightly forward of it's normal mounting position, push the shift lever gently to left so the bottom of the lever just makes contact w/the spring loaded plate that blocks 1&R.
5. slide the lower coupling piece on to the front rod, while maintaining the slight pressure. slide lever assem back to it's normal mounting position. push the shift lever forward about 1/4" (the coupling piece will move ever so slightly on the front rod). rotate the base 90*, while maintaining the position of the coupler on the front rod. tighten the lever coupler clamping nut, TIGHT! rotate the base back and put the base to tunnel bolts back in and tighten.
7. go under car and remove the vice grips.
8. try to engage 2&3 gears. note any excess movement in either of the gears. the fore to aft 'freeplay" should be about equal in both gears. if one gear is tight and the other sloppy or you're unable to engage one gear, you have to reposition the lever coupler on the front rod. mark your current coupler position on the front rod, fore to aft and side to side with a pointed sharpie, regrip the rear bar, loosen the lever clamping nut move, the coupler forward and back as need on the front rod to achive that equal freeplay. tighten the clamping nut, drop the vicegrips, again, and see if you can engage all the gears. you may have to start the engine to do this.

this can be daunting the first time. relax, try not to get frustrated, and work in a systematic manner. when you get all the gears and are happy with the engagement, button up the rear cover and drive off into the sunset. happy motoring.

k

[angerosa]

Don't forget to check your bushings. If they are shot or missing, you might might not be able to get it adjusted no matter what you do - the rod will just be flopping around.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) That's what I did a couple of months ago. Replaced firewall bushing, and cup and rod bushings. Didn't make much of a difference as my problem was one of the two shift coupling pins. It didn't screw in tightly becasue it had been stripped at some point in it's life. It casued alot of play in my linkage. I eventually replaced that too. Everything tightend up (as much as it should).

[So.Cal.914]

Our 'real cars' sound like beetles, few will be impressed.

I don't agree with you statement in whole, I have put alot of time and money into

my engine. I must say it sounds nothing like my 55 bug.

[mrhurtalot]

Check your tranny mounts... i have vague shifts and new bushings and it's my tranny mounts.

and a 'long straight' with 'fart can' cars, and youth, lots of youth, that will, my friend, turn into drag racing. Just you watch.

Our 'real cars' sound like beetles, few will be impressed. Not pissing on your wagon, but only a very few cool people appreciate these cars, like us. The rest only like it if it's got 24''s on it and a sclade badge with burberry bumpers or some tacky shit like that

so im not sure what exhaust you have.. but mine sounds like a beast. ive got the monza dual tips. (with a couple of holes rusted into it.... haha) but its impressed a whole lot of people in the past.

[purple]

at present i have no exhaust...open valves to the outside.... now THAT'S a beast. it sounds like a f'n lycoming plane engine...soon to be replaced by a eurorace header.

I was stating that people who are the types to have fart cans on thier civics will think our cars sound like bugs without the whistle exhaust...and will ask where our subs are...and our NOSS

where is your NOS, btw? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

[jd74914]

Purple, I wouldn't run the engine too much without anything on it. The exhaust reversion into the cylinders isn't cool. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[mrhurtalot]

so i spent about an hour working on this.. still cannot find 4th and 5th gear.

i did the "manually put the trans. in gear at the back and then move the lever into the correct place" method. but im not sure what positions=what gear..

oh and whats this strange rumbling i hear? definately on the right side of the tranny..

[drew365]

After you disconnect the shifter from the rod, you should be able to rotate the rod through the rear tunnel opening about 1/4" clockwise and counterclockwise. If you turn the rod clockwise and then tighten the shifter back up while holding the rod in that position you should be able to access 4th and 5th easier. There's a point where you will lose your ability to catch R and 1st if you go too far. I usually take tools with me and do this while driving around the neighborhood until I find the sweet spot in the middle. I drive a little, see how it shifts, pull over and adjust and repeat. Moving the rod forward and aft will also make going into 2nd and 3rd easier or harder. Driving the car right after making an adjustment is the best way to get a feel for how to do it.

Rotate clockwise: R and 1st harder, 4th and 5th easier

Rotate counter clockwise: R and 1st easier, 4th and 5th harder

Pull shaft back from shifter: 2nd easier, 3rd harder

Push shaft forward into shifter: 2nd harder, 3rd easier

[purple]

I only started it up a couple times, i didnt let it run for more than 20 seconds.

But look what just showed up today... HAHAHAHAH!!!

[angerosa]

After you disconnect the shifter from the rod, you should be able to rotate the rod through the rear tunnel opening about 1/4" clockwise and counterclockwise. If you turn the rod clockwise and then tighten the shifter back up while holding the rod in that position you should be able to access 4th and 5th easier. There's a point where you will lose your ability to catch R and 1st if you go too far. I usually take tools with me and do this while driving around the neighborhood until I find the sweet spot in the middle. I drive a little, see how it shifts, pull over and adjust and repeat. Moving the rod forward and aft will also make going into 2nd and 3rd easier or harder. Driving the car right after making an adjustment is the best way to get a feel for how to do it.

Rotate clockwise: R and 1st harder, 4th and 5th easier

Rotate counter clockwise: R and 1st easier, 4th and 5th harder

Pull shaft back from shifter: 2nd easier, 3rd harder

Push shaft forward into shifter: 2nd harder, 3rd easier

It's important to note that your laying on your creeper, creeping from the rear of the car with your head facing the front and not just reaching under from the back while laying on your stomach like I did to move the linkage into different gears. If so switch the clockwise/counter-clockwise orientations.

[mrhurtalot]

im excused from my next class at 230, and im free the rest of the day. so ill be heading home for a few after i eat my "lunch" (spagettios and tostitos scoops)

okay, to clarify, im laying on my BACK coming from the REAR. correct?
and if so, CW = the top of the rod turning towards the drivers side. correct?

shoot, this sounds like the trick i needed. maybe ill drive her back to school today!

but theres still the clunking/rumbling coming from the axle/trans...maybe itll stop when i get her on the ground.

actually now that i think of it, it might just be from the gears not being fully engaged, it only happened when i "had it in 4th/5th". so thats taken care of most likely.

damn, i love you guys. if theres ever a Midwest central america biblebelt RUMBLE meet etc thing remind me to buy you boys some sodas

[purple]

clunking/rumbling?

is that only when your foot is on the clutch pedal?

if so, your throw out bearing has had it

if not, i'm at a loss

[drew365]

After you disconnect the shifter from the rod, you should be able to rotate the rod through the rear tunnel opening about 1/4" clockwise and counterclockwise. If you turn the rod clockwise and then tighten the shifter back up while holding the rod in that position you should be able to access 4th and 5th easier. There's a point where you will lose your ability to catch R and 1st if you go too far. I usually take tools with me and do this while driving around the neighborhood until I find the sweet spot in the middle. I drive a little, see how it shifts, pull over and adjust and repeat. Moving the rod forward and aft will also make going into 2nd and 3rd easier or harder. Driving the car right after making an adjustment is the best way to get a feel for how to do it.

Rotate clockwise: R and 1st harder, 4th and 5th easier

Rotate counter clockwise: R and 1st easier, 4th and 5th harder

Pull shaft back from shifter: 2nd easier, 3rd harder

Push shaft forward into shifter: 2nd harder, 3rd easier

It's important to note that your laying on your creeper, creeping from the rear of the car with your head facing the front and not just reaching under from the back while laying on your stomach like I did to move the linkage into different gears. If so switch the clockwise/counter-clockwise orientations.

I guess everyone has their own way of doing this. All my instructions were from the perspective of sitting in the drivers seat and adjusting the rod in the tunnel after loosening the shifter from the rod. That's how I do it and it works for me.

[mrhurtalot]

so fellas,

today, a dream was fullfilled, i was able to drive my beloved teener today for the first time in about 6 months. and i could not have done it without you.

man what a great day, and for more than just this. but this just made it perfect. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

thanks alot guys.

[rhodyguy]

what was the solution that worked? too tight in one direction in the fore aft or a little rotation in the side to side?

[So.Cal.914]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[jonferns]

thought i show them what a real car can sound like (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif) -JON