Dumping Hydro lifters, Jake, Capt ect advice please |
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Dumping Hydro lifters, Jake, Capt ect advice please |
Ferg |
Jan 9 2008, 03:27 PM
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#1
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,948 Joined: 8-January 03 From: Boulder CO Member No.: 116 Region Association: None |
I have the 00-422 performance hydro Web camshaft in my 74. 2.0 along with Hydro lifters.
It's been the one part of the car, I've not been happy with, and lately they have been bleeding down fast (one week) and taking a while to quiet down. I just got off the phone with webcam and the nice woman said; that I COULD go back to solid lifters and rods no problem without changing the cam. The motor only has about 3k on it since a complete build. I just want to double check with some of the gurus before I go ahead and order solid lifters and rods ect. Jake, Capt or others, is this a good idea, assuming I don't see anything bad on the cam when it's apart? Any performance issues, using that cam with solids? Ferg (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) I'm a picture whore (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) Attached image(s) |
blitZ |
Jan 9 2008, 03:35 PM
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#2
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Beer please... Group: Members Posts: 2,223 Joined: 31-August 05 From: Lawrenceville, GA Member No.: 4,719 Region Association: South East States |
Dunno, about your lifter issue, but that's a sweet looking car.
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Jake Raby |
Jan 9 2008, 03:53 PM
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#3
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Engine Surgeon Group: Members Posts: 9,394 Joined: 31-August 03 From: Lost Member No.: 1,095 Region Association: South East States |
Toss the cam, toss the lifters. Start over.
It's been over a decade since I used a single hydro lifter. Problems in a box- thats how I refer to them. read this presentation. http://rdtlabs.com/Presentations/t4engcam.pps A camshaft and lifter set up are matched units as soon as they are broken in toegether. I'd never give someone that recommendation, but we build engines and see what happens when this is done. Cam grinders don't do this.. A hydro cam profile being used with solid lifters still has the same crappy late valve events as it did with hydros, just not quite as delayed. This post has been edited by Jake Raby: Jan 9 2008, 03:56 PM |
Cap'n Krusty |
Jan 9 2008, 03:57 PM
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#4
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Cap'n Krusty Group: Members Posts: 10,794 Joined: 24-June 04 From: Santa Maria, CA Member No.: 2,246 Region Association: Central California |
Change the cam. Web Cam makes nice stuff, but they're salesmen. The sales pitch doesn't match the reality. The Cap'n
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Ferg |
Jan 9 2008, 04:09 PM
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#5
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,948 Joined: 8-January 03 From: Boulder CO Member No.: 116 Region Association: None |
Toss the cam, toss the lifters. Start over. It's been over a decade since I used a single hydro lifter. Problems in a box- thats how I refer to them. read this presentation. http://rdtlabs.com/Presentations/t4engcam.pps A camshaft and lifter set up are matched units as soon as they are broken in toegether. I'd never give someone that recommendation, but we build engines and see what happens when this is done. Cam grinders don't do this.. A hydro cam profile being used with solid lifters still has the same crappy late valve events as it did with hydros, just not quite as delayed. I should have stated that splitting the case for a new cam is not a option. I would love to start over, but it's not gonna happen. I'm simply looking to do the best I can with what I have. I see two options for myself. 1. rebuild/clean the hydros and put them back in. 2. toss them and use solid lifters and rods with my hydro webcam. I would like the think option two is the better option, but I don't know for sure... here are the stats on my specific cam. lift .430 duration 265 duration at .5 degrees 234 |
Brando |
Jan 9 2008, 05:10 PM
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#6
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BUY MY SPARE KIDNEY!!! Group: Members Posts: 3,935 Joined: 29-August 04 From: Santa Ana, CA Member No.: 2,648 Region Association: Southern California |
If splitting the case is not an option, it may be a costly change-over to solid lifters.
1) as jake mentioned the cam and lifters wear together as a set. You'll be attempting to break in new lifters on a worn cam. Also jake mentioned the crappy valve events will stick around - you'll see essentially no benefit to switching at this point. 2) To change over to solid you'll need the lifters and cut-to-length pushrods to get your geometry correct. 3) it may be better to drop-and-swap the engine for either a rebuilt 2.0 or start acquiring parts to rebuild another 2.0 to swap in. |
byndbad914 |
Jan 9 2008, 06:57 PM
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#7
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shoehorn and some butter - it fits Group: Members Posts: 1,547 Joined: 23-January 06 From: Broomfield, CO Member No.: 5,463 Region Association: None |
Ferg, I don't think I would mess with new lifters/old cam. As others have mentioned, you can wipe the cam out. My buddy had a pretty new cam in his Chevy (obviously this is now an apples to oranges comparison) and wanted to change the lifters.. I said don't do it. It lasted 5 minutes before wiping every lobe out and taking all the bearings in the motor with it.
'Course you can flatten a Chevy cam just looking at it wrong (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) ) but given what Jake mentions, I bet the problem exists with VWs too. |
scotty b |
Jan 9 2008, 07:05 PM
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#8
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rust free you say ? Group: Members Posts: 16,375 Joined: 7-January 05 From: richmond, Va. Member No.: 3,419 Region Association: None |
Toss the cam, toss the lifters. Start over. It's been over a decade since I used a single hydro lifter. Problems in a box- thats how I refer to them. read this presentation. http://rdtlabs.com/Presentations/t4engcam.pps A camshaft and lifter set up are matched units as soon as they are broken in toegether. I'd never give someone that recommendation, but we build engines and see what happens when this is done. Cam grinders don't do this.. A hydro cam profile being used with solid lifters still has the same crappy late valve events as it did with hydros, just not quite as delayed. I should have stated that splitting the case for a new cam is not a option. I would love to start over, but it's not gonna happen. I'm simply looking to do the best I can with what I have. I see two options for myself. 1. rebuild/clean the hydros and put them back in. 2. toss them and use solid lifters and rods with my hydro webcam. I would like the think option two is the better option, but I don't know for sure... here are the stats on my specific cam. lift .430 duration 265 duration at .5 degrees 234 You're going to have to split the case to change over to solid lifters anyway......so why not drop the extrra $80.00 (?) and do it right? |
McMark |
Jan 9 2008, 07:48 PM
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#9
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914 Freak! Group: Retired Admin Posts: 20,179 Joined: 13-March 03 From: Grand Rapids, MI Member No.: 419 Region Association: None |
Run the 'old' hydro lifters until you can split the case. If you choose to throw new lifters in (hydro or solid), don't be surprised if you end up having to split the case anyway because the cam died.
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Jake Raby |
Jan 9 2008, 07:53 PM
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#10
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Engine Surgeon Group: Members Posts: 9,394 Joined: 31-August 03 From: Lost Member No.: 1,095 Region Association: South East States |
Trying to avoid an issue is the first way to guarantee that you'll have an issue.
To makeing compromise creates failure. |
Ferg |
Jan 9 2008, 08:22 PM
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#11
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,948 Joined: 8-January 03 From: Boulder CO Member No.: 116 Region Association: None |
Thanks for all the advice, I can always count on good info here.
I want to make it clear, I'm not trying to half ass things, or looking for a easy way out, it's not what i'm about. I would love to tear it apart (actually I would love to do it myself and learn) but time, family and money prevent it, car is pretty far back on my priority list lately. It sounds like I will be rebuilding my current hydro's and putting them back in. I realize (did when I bought the car) that hydro's are not optimal, but seems like my best option for now. Ferg |
Jake Raby |
Jan 9 2008, 09:22 PM
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#12
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Engine Surgeon Group: Members Posts: 9,394 Joined: 31-August 03 From: Lost Member No.: 1,095 Region Association: South East States |
What oil pump and oil are you running??? This is critical to a hydro engine.
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sww914 |
Jan 9 2008, 09:30 PM
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#13
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,439 Joined: 4-June 06 Member No.: 6,146 Region Association: None |
You could try some of this Rislone- http://www.barsproducts.com/100QR.htm
I put it in my 454 with a couple of noisy lifters for about 1000 miles. they had been getting noisier for 20,000 miles, and they've been quiet ever since, about 15,000 miles. I'm not a big fan of engine rebuild in a can type products and I don't blame anyone who scoffs at this idea, but in your case it won't make anything worse and it's cheaper than splitting the case. If it doesn't work, you're out 8 bucks. |
Ferg |
Jan 9 2008, 09:58 PM
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#14
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 5,948 Joined: 8-January 03 From: Boulder CO Member No.: 116 Region Association: None |
What oil pump and oil are you running??? This is critical to a hydro engine. I'm not sure the brand, I have a Invoice from performance products that shows a HD Oil Pump was bought and the catalog number was OP-5144. Right now I run 20-50 Castrol, but will be changing to brad penn this weekend. |
Jake Raby |
Jan 9 2008, 10:07 PM
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#15
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Engine Surgeon Group: Members Posts: 9,394 Joined: 31-August 03 From: Lost Member No.: 1,095 Region Association: South East States |
Sounds like a Melling pump.... that may be the problem.
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Brando |
Jan 10 2008, 03:23 PM
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#16
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BUY MY SPARE KIDNEY!!! Group: Members Posts: 3,935 Joined: 29-August 04 From: Santa Ana, CA Member No.: 2,648 Region Association: Southern California |
You're going to have to split the case to change over to solid lifters anyway......so why not drop the extrra $80.00 (?) and do it right? Scotty, ya don't have to split the case to pull lifters. They slide in and out of the bores with some lube. Now, if you've got some funky lifters with a big foot on them I could see installation in the case halves before assembly necessary. Also they might get stuck if they're mangled, or if the bores are fucked. But with stock and hydros that replace stock lifters, they slide in and out. I've had it happen most times on teardowns as I spin the engine over on the stand. |
SGB |
Jan 10 2008, 03:34 PM
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#17
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just visiting Group: Members Posts: 4,086 Joined: 8-March 03 From: Huntsville, AL Member No.: 404 Region Association: South East States |
That Brad Penn oil will have you saying "that was easy".
I have the dreaded hydro cam and lifters. Put 'em in in 1990. When mine get noisy it is just a sign that that the oil is used up. That used to be castrol. When I went to Penn, I heard all kinds of sounds I had never heard before- because the were masked by the lifter noise. The noises I hear now are a whirring machinery in action noise. Change that oil! Tell us what happens. |
SLITS |
Jan 10 2008, 06:03 PM
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#18
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"This Utah shit is HARSH!" Group: Benefactors Posts: 13,602 Joined: 22-February 04 From: SoCal Mountains ... Member No.: 1,696 Region Association: None |
I disagree with the experts but then my experience may be different than yours.
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orange914 |
Jan 10 2008, 06:11 PM
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#19
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http://5starmediaworks.com/index.html Group: Members Posts: 3,371 Joined: 26-March 05 From: Ceres, California Member No.: 3,818 Region Association: Northern California |
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