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> carb spitting mixture back out, pushrod not in lifter bore, success inside!
rhodyguy
post Feb 12 2008, 07:55 AM
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the syncronometer to buy, imho, is pictured on the front page at mark harney's site. www.carburetorclinic.com. go there and read the info about your webers. GREAT pictures and text. aircooled.net has a nice writeup too. the syncro is avail from pelican, among other vendors. item PEL-TOL-STESK.

k
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HAM Inc
post Feb 12 2008, 09:38 AM
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Purple, if you pull your rocker arms off and all of the springs are about the same ht. then the cause is not likely in the head. If you didn't seat the pushrod properly, make sure it isn't bent now.

As long as you have the rockers off it would be a good idea to do a leak down on the offending cylinder to make sure the open valve didn't encounter a rising piston.
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Brando
post Feb 12 2008, 03:33 PM
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The only reason I can think of for the mixture of air and fuel to spit back out the carb would be the intake valve staying open.

I also vote to follow Jake's advice.
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purple
post Feb 12 2008, 03:42 PM
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All right you guys, i'm going down to the garage tonight to see what's up. Thanks for all your input and I'll keep you posted with pics and info as appropriate :-)

Thanks to all of you!
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Cap'n Krusty
post Feb 12 2008, 06:07 PM
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QUOTE(Brando @ Feb 12 2008, 01:33 PM) *

The only reason I can think of for the mixture of air and fuel to spit back out the carb would be the intake valve staying open.

I also vote to follow Jake's advice.


A severe lean condition will make 'em spit back. The Cap'n
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purple
post Feb 13 2008, 11:21 AM
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well hell!

I had all intentions of going to the garage last night and a buddy calls up with a car that wont start because he ran it all the way out of gas.

he poured in a puny can of gas and i could hear the fuel pump 'knocking around' from priming itself. the car BARELY started but kept running and we got him a full tank.
the car ended up dying a few blocks away and wont start even when jumped. methinks he sucked a bunch of crud into the fuel lines off the bottom of the tank

a 99 maxima, he doesnt maintain it, the oil is black as night, and the tires were 10 pounds low WARM.

people that dont maintain their cars shouldnt be allowed to share the road with the rest of us...

no work got done on the 914, maybe tonight
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purple
post Feb 13 2008, 09:15 PM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/cheer.gif) IT WORKS!!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cheer.gif)
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)

I have the P.O. to thank for adjusting the valves to utter slackness on a hydro lifter that i didnt bend a valve or some other terrible buffoonery!

The pushrod did NOT seat all the way down in the lifter bore! I was all... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif) i've gone 5 turns out on this screw and it's STILL IN CONTACT!

Soooo, i removed the rocker assembly off that cyl and checked the pushrod (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) not bent!

i then seated it properly and replaced the rocker assembly when i was treated to the pushrod popping back out and needing to be 'coaxed' back into its home.

anyway, put 2 turns past first contact on TDC of those two cyls, and closed it back up.

I didnt do the other two yet as I wanted to see if what i'd done had any affect. It turns out that yes! yes it did! fired right up! it kinda coughed at first and then got running real, real nice

it's still making its 'booda booda' noises, but i'm going to adjust the valves on the other side and re-check the offending side on sunday.

funny thing....the valve adjuster screws were tightened only 1.2 to 1.5 turns after first contact. Since the lifters were not pumped up fully and the valvetrain was cold, webcam recommends 2 turns in. So I did two turns in. It may be my imagination, but the center of the engine sounds quite a bit quieter now. now to do the other side, which i'm sure is quite loose, hopefully I can quiet it down all the way and then get to synching these carbs! actually, timing first, then syncing.

Thanks to all you guys! you're the best!

OHH, and the long saga of this overheating engine should be over, as far as overheating is concerned....at idle it's 100 degrees cooler than before i put the FIVE pieces of missing underside tin back on....including both lower fan guides(behind the alternator and over the oil cooler) the under-cylinder tin on the drivers side, the rear tins on both sides. yeah....and it still ran. what a hearty engine! Props to you jake for picking a good one! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/w00t.gif)
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rhodyguy
post Feb 14 2008, 09:30 AM
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you're still not out of the woods on the carb items. great success on the pushrod discovery. HIGH 5!

k
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