Front suspenion A-arm refurm, Step-by-step Options

[racunniff]

My car had the most annoying popping / grinding sound coming from the passenger's side front A-arm. It got to the point that I almost did not want to drive the car any more. So, I decided to do something about it. Once I had diagnosed that it was the A-arm bearings causing the sound, I went to the Pelican and ordered this part (part number 99-3014-340-M230):



You'll need the following tools:

1. Sockets - 11mm, 13mm, 17mm, 19mm
2. Allen wrench - 8mm
3. A BFH - "Big Friendly Hammer"
4. Rubber mallet
5. Breaker bar, pry bars, chisels, heat source, etc.
6. Some grease (I used some white lithium grease)

I jacked the car up, and removed the wheel, so I could access the suspension:



Here is what the A-arm looked like at the begnining of this whole process:



First step in removing the A-arm is to remove the torsion bar adjusting screw (using an 11mm socket) and then pry the adjusting arm off the torsion bar (I used an Allen wrench as a lever to push it from behind):



Next is to remove the tapered pin from the ball joint. You back the nut off so it's clear of the threads (using a 13mm socket) and then you *carefully* strike it with a hammer - here is my BFH about to strike the nut (which has been soaking for a bit in penetrating oil). You have to hit it pretty hard to loosen it, but eventually, it will pop forward:



Once you get the initial "pop" you'll need to remove the nut and then use another bolt or something as a drift to push the pin far enough out so you can get at it with vice grips or something.

Coming soon, Part II

[racunniff]

Part III


The Haynes book says "push the control arm out" but I had to use a crowbar to free it from the rear mounting point:



And that's it for removal from the car. Here is the whole assembly - note the rust and general "old" appearance of the part:



But the fun is just beginning. To replace the bushings, you need to get them off the A-arm. For me, the front popped off pretty easily:



And this is where the cause of the "popping" or "grinding" becomes evident - there is surface rust on the bearing surface.

You then need to get the old bushing out. I used two chisels on opposite sides of the "shoulder" of the bushing to pry it:



You can also push from the back with a very large socket or other such drift. But for me, once I got it most of the way out with the chisels, the old bushing just popped out. The bushing itself was not in terrible condition, but it's not going back in with those nice shiny new ones waiting...

This is where it got nasty. The rear bushing / bearing would *not* come off. Using a hint from Pelican's tech article, I applied heat to it:



With enough heat, enough prying, and hitting it hard enough with my BFH, I finally got it off. Again, once it moved a couple of cm, it came off (hint: use a breaker bar in the bolt hole to lever it back and forth - it also gives you a place to hit it with your favorite BFH).

Coming soon, Part IV