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> Put my Tarett bar together last night and..., I got some ?'s
Dave Cawdrey
post Mar 20 2003, 12:07 AM
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Put it all together and need some answers.

1st: I didnt get any nylock nuts (6 needed) for mounting the bearing blocks to body. Easy fix but, shouldn't they come w/ the set up?

2nd: My car didnt have an existing bar and I need a template to locate the holes. Anyone have such a thing?

TIA
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jonwatts
post Mar 20 2003, 12:11 AM
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It should have come with Nylocks. Mine did and we got ours in the same group.

I could make a template from my car and fax it to you, or I could tape a ruler across the hole and take a picture. From another thread I was reading today they weren't always the same (on both sides) from the factory.
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Dave Cawdrey
post Mar 20 2003, 12:17 AM
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MUELLER!! (ya know, like Ferris Bueler) I was jipped. I wanna refund (JK) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif)

I really want a template of some sort. Thought PP might have one, but cant seem to find it. Some help, DD?
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ChrisReale
post Mar 20 2003, 12:19 AM
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No nylock nuts needed to mount the blocks to the body. But since you dont have the stock sway bar hoes tapped, I guess you do need them

***edit***
supposed to say "...sway bar holes tapped..."
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Brad Roberts
post Mar 20 2003, 12:19 AM
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Mueller has a problem with losing his nuts.

Jon:

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/bs.gif) on the sides being different.


B
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Dave Cawdrey
post Mar 20 2003, 12:21 AM
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QUOTE(ChrisReale @ Mar 19 2003, 10:19 PM)
No nylock nuts needed to mount the blocks to the body. But since you dont have the stock sway bar hoes tapped, I guess yo do need them

The wells are tapped? Seems weak to me. Thats what I was thinking first...
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ChrisReale
post Mar 20 2003, 12:23 AM
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Just the three surrounding holes. Weak, yea maybe, but mine held up for 30+ years.... :finger2:
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ChrisReale
post Mar 20 2003, 12:24 AM
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Maybe sometime this weekend or next week we can get yours put on. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)
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jonwatts
post Mar 20 2003, 12:25 AM
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There are nuts tack welded on the gas tank side of the fender well, not just tapped sheet metal. Just making sure everyone is clear.
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Dave Cawdrey
post Mar 20 2003, 12:26 AM
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QUOTE(ChrisReale @ Mar 19 2003, 10:23 PM)
Just the three surrounding holes. Weak, yea maybe, but mine held up for 30+ years.... :finger2:

But that wasnt no 22mm hallow bar. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/finger.gif)

Did you make your hole any larger?
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jonwatts
post Mar 20 2003, 12:26 AM
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QUOTE(Brad Roberts @ Mar 19 2003, 10:19 PM)
Jon:

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/bs.gif) on the sides being different.

Well I read it on your BBS!

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)
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ChrisReale
post Mar 20 2003, 12:28 AM
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QUOTE(korijo @ Mar 19 2003, 10:26 PM)
QUOTE(ChrisReale @ Mar 19 2003, 10:23 PM)
Just the three surrounding holes.  Weak, yea maybe, but mine held up for 30+ years.... :finger2:

But that wasnt no 22mm hallow bar. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/finger.gif)

Did you make your hole any larger?

Yes. I had to ream it out a small ammount. I actually used a hand file because I am stuck in the stone age..
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Matt914MI
post Mar 20 2003, 12:28 AM
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You shouldn't tap the "hoes" you know. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif)
Speaking of sway-bars, what size/grade nuts and bolts should I use on the factory mounts for a factory bar? The car originally had one, but I one of the POs sold it or something. So I have the holes there already, and I got mounts with the used bar I bought that seem to be fine, but I don't know if normal nuts and bolts would shake themselves loose. I have to order new bushings for it before I install it anyway, so should I order some special locknuts or something along with them? If so, where should I get them? Thanks guys.

-Matt
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Brad Roberts
post Mar 20 2003, 12:29 AM
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I'm pretty sure what you read was referring to aftermarket bars needing adjustment when using a 6 bolt procedure on a car that never came with a bar.

Maybe.


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ChrisReale
post Mar 20 2003, 12:30 AM
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QUOTE(Matt914MI @ Mar 19 2003, 10:28 PM)
You shouldn't tap the "hoes" you know.  :P
Speaking of sway-bars, what size/grade nuts and bolts should I use on the factory mounts for a factory bar?  The car originally had one, but I one of the POs sold it or something.  So I have the holes there already, and I got mounts with the used bar I bought that seem to be fine, but I don't know if normal nuts and bolts would shake themselves loose.  I have to order new bushings for it before I install it anyway, so should I order some special locknuts or something along with them?  If so, where should I get them?  Thanks guys.

-Matt

Nylock nuts are supplied with the Tarett. I can give you the torque numbers tommorow. I cant go to the garage right now, its almost past my bedtime (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)
edit*****Brad you type too fast...plus you have a guest to entertain (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mueba.gif)
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Dave Cawdrey
post Mar 20 2003, 12:38 AM
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Matt,
Torq all the bolts to 19 ft.lb. The drop link lok nuts are 20-30 ft.lb. And the a arm tab and sway bar arms get 20 ft.lb.
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Ira Ramin
post Mar 20 2003, 09:55 AM
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Korijo,
I’m a little unsure about what your actual situation is but I’ll try to help out. If your car has the factory mounting features, you can mount directly to them. The only mod required is to open up the large hole in the middle for the larger swaybar to fit through. There will be nuts and a plate welded on the inside, so no additional hardware is required.

If you don’t have the factory mounting, you will need a set of adaptor nut plates for the inside of the well. Tapping the sheetmetal or simply adding nuts on the inside will not hold for long, even with washers under them. Let me know if you need the nut plates.

This link includes instructions for the nut plate.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/9...ont_swaybar.htm


Ira
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Mueller
post Mar 20 2003, 10:38 AM
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QUOTE
Chris said: Nylock nuts are supplied with the Tarett


Chris and Korijo....Yes the Tarett bar does come with 4 Nylock nuts, but they are not for the bearing blocks, two are for the endlink to A-arm bracket and the other two are for the pinch bolt at the end of the swaybar arm.


Sorry for not asking if you had a stock bar/aftermarket bar or no bar at all (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

I've only installed bars in cars that never had them, I've also never used a backing plate although I know I should have, but I felt the larger fender washers and combination of lock washers and LocTite was okay.
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Dave_Darling
post Mar 20 2003, 12:06 PM
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It's best to weld the nut-plates to the inside of the inner fender; they are quite a bit stronger that way. I've heard stories from a few people about the bolt-on version starting to tear the fender around the bolt-holes.

Then again, I simply used the factory weld-nuts and didn't bother with a nut-plate.

--DD
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Dave Cawdrey
post Mar 20 2003, 01:54 PM
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QUOTE(Ira Ramin @ Mar 20 2003, 07:55 AM)
Korijo,
I’m a little unsure about what your actual situation is but I’ll try to help out. If your car has the factory mounting features, you can mount directly to them. The only mod required is to open up the large hole in the middle for the larger swaybar to fit through. There will be nuts and a plate welded on the inside, so no additional hardware is required.

If you don’t have the factory mounting, you will need a set of adaptor nut plates for the inside of the well. Tapping the sheetmetal or simply adding nuts on the inside will not hold for long, even with washers under them. Let me know if you need the nut plates.

This link includes instructions for the nut plate.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/9...ont_swaybar.htm


Ira

I'll need some nut plates, Ira... got some?
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