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> Flaring the rear fenders with a bat, pipe or ?, Is this more than just an "Urban Legend"?
ahdoman
post Mar 16 2008, 08:32 PM
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Due to a 5 lug conversion in process I am going to need to flare my rear fenders to fit some 225/16's on the rear. I have heard and been told by people that it has been done using all sorts of implements; from baseball bats to lead pipe to old strut cartridges! I also have yet to see the results look decent. So does anybody have and personal experience and pics to back it up or is this truely an "Urban Legend"?
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PeeGreen 914
post Mar 16 2008, 08:35 PM
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No pics at the moment, but not an urban legend. We have done three 914s. only one with 225s one there but we did it and they look good.
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jim_hoyland
post Mar 16 2008, 08:36 PM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif) Looks like a good " How To 'thread (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)
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Aaron Cox
post Mar 16 2008, 08:36 PM
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i have done it (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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jd74914
post Mar 16 2008, 08:40 PM
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I tried stretching my fenders with the bat must not have been going slow enough to really stretch the metal properly, as my door gaps started to grow. At that point (since the car was stripped) I decided to pie-cut the fender for more tire clearance rather than have to fix the gaps.

I too would really like to see a how-to thread to see what I was doing wrong. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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John
post Mar 16 2008, 08:51 PM
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I did mine with a wooden dowel (probably 2").

This was my first attempt at it and it came out OK, but it I was to do it over, I would use something else (or would need someone who has done it before be there to offer guidance) The second fender came out better than the first.

If I was to repaint the car, I could make it look better (but my flares will replace the stretched fenders one day).

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KaptKaos
post Mar 16 2008, 09:00 PM
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QUOTE(Aaron Cox @ Mar 16 2008, 06:36 PM) *



And you are???? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)

Good luck with your exams!
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ahdoman
post Mar 16 2008, 09:03 PM
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See, this is exacly my point; it seems like everybody has done it but no pics for evidence! Yeah, bigfoot walks through my back yard every night...no pics though.

So what is the process? Here's what I've heard...true or false?
1) Keep the paint warm (using heat gun or heating pad) and it won't crack.
2) Lower the car until the pipe rests snuggly between the fender and wheel then twist the pipe and move it along between the fender and the wheel. (What kind of angle do you hold the pipe at in relation to the fender?)
3) The larger the diameter of the pipe (1 1/2" to 2") the smoother the flare.
4) An aluminum bat works best because the rounded end will not crease the metal.
5) "clean up" can be done with hammer and dolly.
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Dave_Darling
post Mar 16 2008, 09:04 PM
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It's been done for real, but I don't think it really stretches the metal. It seems to (usually) pull the bottom of the fender inward, at least to some extent. Most of the ones that I've seen have had slightly wider door gaps at the bottoms than the top, as the bottom part of the fender has been pulled back. (And the bottom part of the fender aft of the wheel has been pulled forward a bit.)

These things are most visible when the fenders are pulled out a lot.

BTW, pulling the fenders like that seems like an excellent way to find any Bondo (or any non-flexible filler) in the fenders...

--DD
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PeeGreen 914
post Mar 16 2008, 09:06 PM
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You MUST do it slow or it will not look very good. We have a kids league bat with the knob cut off. Start with using the handle rolling it back and forth an few times until it gets easy. Then move up the handle a little. Keep doing this until you have it to where you want it and then mount your new wheels. When we did this for the 225s we had the entire barrel of the bat in there.
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rick 918-S
post Mar 16 2008, 09:10 PM
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The term "stretched" I think gets mis-used. I would call it "pulling the opening" as to actually get any real "stretch" out of the panel it would require thinning of the panel.

jd74914 discribed the actual effect most likely to occure. As you roll the bat, pipe, or what ever you decide to use across the tire, you will be pulling the panel to get the clearance your trying to achive. Considering you can not get enough force on the panel to actually thin the panel with this method, the whole panel will reshape it's self.

If your lucky (or have practice) you may be able to carefully move the panel outward to get a little clearance. But if you need alot, it's likely you will pull the panel from it's weakest point. It's door gaps.
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sww914
post Mar 16 2008, 09:14 PM
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Evidence.


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jim_hoyland
post Mar 16 2008, 09:16 PM
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Did a search on " baseball bat" and look who comes up---bring your bat to the G & R Swapmeet, maybe you can talk "G" into a demo... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)


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PeeGreen 914
post Mar 16 2008, 09:18 PM
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QUOTE(rick 918-S @ Mar 16 2008, 08:10 PM) *

The term "stretched" I think gets mis-used. I would call it "pulling the opening" as to actually get any real "stretch" out of the panel it would require thinning of the panel.

jd74914 discribed the actual effect most likely to occure. As you roll the bat, pipe, or what ever you decide to use across the tire, you will be pulling the panel to get the clearance your trying to achive. Considering you can not get enough force on the panel to actually thin the panel with this method, the whole panel will reshape it's self.

If your lucky (or have practice) you may be able to carefully move the panel outward to get a little clearance. But if you need alot, it's likely you will pull the panel from it's weakest point. It's door gaps.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) That is the biggest reason you need to go slow. You need to see what the panel is doing and make sure you are not pulling everything so it will not line up right or create gaps in places you don't want. We didn't have that problem with the ca rs we did, but for people who try for more I have seen it. I have also seen it where people will pull and cut to make even wider. Turns out basically like having smooth flares. Looks very nice but you must paint after you do that. If you roll properly you won't hurt you paint. We don't heat or anything. Just roll.
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Wanna9146
post Mar 16 2008, 09:19 PM
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Tire Rack loans-out "fender rollers"...

(IMG:http://www.dfuser.com/images/fender_roller_1.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.bmw-m.net/Gallery/images/fender_roller2.jpg)
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Grngoat
post Mar 16 2008, 10:06 PM
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If that's the same fender roller tool that Eastwood sells, and it looks just like it, be warned that it won't bolt to our 5x130mm bolt pattern. Unless you get the "truck" adapter for an extra $100 or so. I plan to try the bat method. My 215s rub just a tiny bit on the outside as it is now.
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lotus_65
post Mar 17 2008, 04:03 AM
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i also wonder how it would do with our non-concentric rear wheel wells.
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John Kelly
post Mar 17 2008, 05:58 AM
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As already mentioned, it is not stretching. It is bending, pulling, or tweaking, which means you are stealing contours from somewhere else.

You can get a way with a little bit, but the more you do, the more likely it is that you will see a problem in the form of a shallow spot, shorter wheel opening distance front to back, or a door gap change.

Everytime you tweak a panel in one direction, there is a consequence in another.

Those rollers are a bit of a scam in my opinion. I imagine a lot of cars have been screwed up by people using them and thinking that they are stretching the fenders. In the hands of someone who understands what is happening with the metal, they may be of some use.

John www.ghiaspecialties.com
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ahdoman
post Mar 17 2008, 08:49 AM
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Thank You John, I was hoping you'd give us a little input. So the key here it to watch other parts of the panel while it's being done to make sure you're not compromising another section. Also, I understand that I will loose the "lip" when I do it. Is it a good idea to trim away the part that curls under since it would get mashed anyhow and just make more metal to try and stretch?
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John Kelly
post Mar 17 2008, 10:40 AM
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QUOTE(ahdoman @ Mar 17 2008, 07:49 AM) *

Thank You John, I was hoping you'd give us a little input. So the key here it to watch other parts of the panel while it's being done to make sure you're not compromising another section. Also, I understand that I will loose the "lip" when I do it. Is it a good idea to trim away the part that curls under since it would get mashed anyhow and just make more metal to try and stretch?


Hi Steve,

You can trim a little but you risk losing a little bit of the stiffness that helps keep some strength in the wheel opening flange. A small consideration.

Going slow is a good idea when pushing or rolling the quarters, but it is not always easy to see when deformation occurs.

If you really want to stretch, I've have plenty of ideas about that, but other guys who have rolled their fenders can show you more about that method...I was just reiterating the words of caution by others if you go that route. It is certainly faster and easier than stretching.

You can also cut the lower rear quarter brace and jack up slightly on the rear lower quarter while pulling out on the wheelopening about 6"-8" or so behind the middle/top of the opening to get a little more room.

Or just cut the brace, and pull out on the quarter. I've only done this with a stretched quarter, so go slow if you try it.

John www.ghiaspecialties.com
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