 Which Post-sandblasting primer to use?, 8hrs to go and I'm very confused... |
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| Hydra. |
 Apr 16 2008, 04:32 PM
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Member  Group: Members Posts: 59 Joined: 23-July 05 From: www.hydraperformance.com Member No.: 4,457 Region Association: None  |
I know I should have done this earlier, but I'll be getting my car sandblasted in 8 hours, and I still can't make heads nor tails of the best primer system to use. Should I use a zinc-chromate primer, an epoxy primer, or a wash primer? Any specific product recommendations? The car will still need much bodywork and metal R&R before it is ready for paint. AlsoKeep in mind that I am outside the US and have no access to POR-15... I'd really appreciate your suggestions, thanks!
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| iamchappy |
Apr 16 2008, 04:56 PM
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It all happens so fast! Group: Members Posts: 4,893 Joined: 5-November 03 From: minnetonka, mn Member No.: 1,315 Region Association: Upper MidWest  |
Omar, you should use an Etch Primer first.
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| Mark Henry |
Apr 16 2008, 05:12 PM
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that's what I do! Group: Members Posts: 20,065 Joined: 27-December 02 From: Port Hope, Ontario Member No.: 26 Region Association: Canada |
You can use vinyl wash if you will be starting bodywork right away.
If you're going to wait use the epoxy, I like PPG DP40. |
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| r_towle |
Apr 16 2008, 06:17 PM
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Custom Member Group: Members Posts: 24,577 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Taxachusetts Member No.: 124 Region Association: North East States 
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Epoxy...its waterproof, the car will survive outside without getting surface rusty, and you can shoot primer/sealer over it when ready.
epoxy is very hard...when you are all ready to paint...after all the metalwork is done, just scuff it up and shoot a good sealer...then off you go. Rich |
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| scotty b |
Apr 16 2008, 07:47 PM
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rust free you say ? Group: Members Posts: 16,375 Joined: 7-January 05 From: richmond, Va. Member No.: 3,419 Region Association: None |
BEST results will be to use an etch/wash primer. Next best would be epoxy. The etch/wash primers adhere MUCH better and will also neutralize any small rust pits that may be left as well as any rust flash that may occur once bare. I have a Jeep hood that has NOTHING but Spies etch primer on it. Been outside for almost a year...in the rust belt south. NO rust except where it was scratched pretty hard and the rust has NOT spread under the primer on the edges of the scratch. There is a damn good reason I use Spies Hecker. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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| charliew |
Apr 16 2008, 08:34 PM
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,363 Joined: 31-July 07 From: Crawford, TX. Member No.: 7,958 |
I think once you've hammered on PPG dp90, 40, 74 LF you will decide it's pretty good stuff. I bead blasted some aluminium sills for a jeep truck hunting wagon and 5 years later it still hasn't rubbed off. They say plastic filler won't stick to it but I think it sticks better than to bare steel and it's sealed to stop rust from forming under the filler. Just sand blast a piece of scrap metal, paint it with dp epoxy let it dry about 12 hrs. don't even scuff it and put some rage gold filler on it. Let it dry and try to tear it up after about two days.
Charliew |
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