I moved my entire gearshift up, A CSOB's solution Options

[URY914]

In case you missed this, I thought I'd share it with you...

In an attempt to be able to perform quicker gear shifts, I have raised my gearshift base and shift rod about 3" above the stock location. This means that the forward shift rod is above the center tunnel but still uses the stock firewall bushing. I figure if I move the gearshift closer to the steering wheel my hand will spend less time going between the wheel and the gearshift.

I did not add universal joints to the shift rod. The coupling under the gearshift and at the firewall allows for some degree of mis-alinement. I fabricated the brackets so I could adjust them so if the mis-alinement was too great and the rod was binding up I could back it down and free it up.

If I really wanted to raise it up 6" or so I'd have to add u-joints into the rod. Than I could also cut a few inches off the gear shift handle to reduce the throw. Maybe I'll do this next if this doesnt work out completely.

This is not a pretty polished custom CNC fabricated aluminum piece but it works. I have not driven the car with it, but it is little more stiff that stock. I only use 1-2-3 anyway so I'll learn to live with it.

[URY914]

Photo #2...

[lagunero]

yea but how much weight did you add? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Thanks for the info, I'm actually doing something very similiar and you just answered my question about mis-alignment.

[McMark]

You should remove the 4/5 gears for weight savings... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

That's a cool mod, have you thought about cable shifter?

[URY914]

I've thought a lot about cable shifters but from what I can tell they are not smoother or faster. But I could locate it anywhere I needed. This was easier than a cable shifter.

I'll be removing 4 and 5th the next time I open up the tranny.

[race914]

Just received a catalog from SpeedwayMotors and in their hot rod parts section I came across their steering column bearings. Looks like what is used in some of the shift improvement kits.

(IMG:http://www.speedwaymotors.com/eccStoreFront/product_images/900-949%204TH/910-102_R.jpg)

I thought this link might be of interest in case you are thinking about replacing the firewall bushing at some point, but it does look heavier than the factory plastic : )

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/6845,178_S...nt-Bearing.html

Thanks for sharing your shifter project. Pics are great

[URY914]

Good find race914. That's the ticket for replacing the firewall bushing. Needs to be the right diameter for the shift rod.

[PeeGreen 914]

Patrick Motorsports sells that as well. They even tell you how much you need to turn down the rod or they sell you one ready to go.

[smdubovsky]

If you do the math, the metal firewall bushing is a waste of money for a *SIDESHIFT* (its pretty darn important for a tailshift). The movement ratio is tiny. The bushing in the tranny that the rod passes though is MUCH more critical.

[PeeGreen 914]

After just doing ALL the shift bushings and now having well over 1k just in my linkage I would have to say that the firewall bushing was very important. There is so much slop in most of them and to put one in that is exact really helps a lot. Yes, the one at the transmission did make more noticable difference, but they all make some difference.

[rhodyguy]

the new fw shift bushings are crap anymore it seems. aside from missing paint from wear off, my forward rod is in good shape and it was sloppier than i expected with a new bushing. if the bushing pictured had a spherical center it would be extra swell. the bolt points won't fit in the outside of the stock ss disc/cover the boot goes on. outside mounting might interfear with the coupler. an inside fw install would be the way to go.

love the shifter paul.

k