 Side shift swap & 5-lug progress DELAYED! Pics included, Have the rear end done! Just clutch left |
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| JRust |
 May 24 2008, 09:19 PM
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#1
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914 Guru  Group: Members Posts: 6,307 Joined: 10-January 03 From: Corvallis Oregon Member No.: 129 Region Association: Pacific Northwest 
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I finally made some progress today! I a doing a complete 5-lug suspension swap. I took it off a burned six conversion a while back. It's been waiting for the right car. Now that I have it I am putting it all in. My v8 conversion is a 70 & the clutch was slipping badly. So I am doing a side shift swap also. My front end seems to be sitting really high though. Doesn't seem to want to go lower. Not sure if the sway bar is set incorrectly & that is keeping it where it is or not. Didn't spend much more time on it. I'll check it out more on monday. Any tips on something I may have forgotten up front is appreciated.
I've replaced all the bushings in the linkage. I also installed the shifter & connecting rod to the firewall. That firewall bushing took a little effort to get in. Managed to do it without breaking anything though (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) I removed the old tailshifter/adapter plate & exhaust. Which is going to do it for today! Tommorow is family day so come monday I am back at it. I do need my flywheel turned so I may be limited on monday. I can still get my 5lug setup on their trailing arms installed. I was hoping to take it for a spin monday but it doesn't look like that is going to work out (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) Attached image(s)   
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| JRust |
May 24 2008, 09:22 PM
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#2
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 6,307 Joined: 10-January 03 From: Corvallis Oregon Member No.: 129 Region Association: Pacific Northwest
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Few more pics (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) . Also a shot of the cut out firewall. There is a fiberglass mold that covers it. I plan to get a good metal one formed to replace it. My only real gripe with the car!
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| Todd Enlund |
May 24 2008, 09:42 PM
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#3
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Resident Photoshop Guru Group: Members Posts: 3,251 Joined: 24-August 07 From: Laurelhurst (Portland), Oregon Member No.: 8,032 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
16x7 993 wheels? 16x8? Spacer?
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| JRust |
May 24 2008, 09:55 PM
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#4
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 6,307 Joined: 10-January 03 From: Corvallis Oregon Member No.: 129 Region Association: Pacific Northwest
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Yes 993 wheels. 16x7 in front with a 1" spacer & 205/55's. 16x8 in back with a 1 1/4" spacer. I have 205/55's mounted on the rears also. Just to get a better idea what will fit. I'd like to get 215's or 225's if posssible. Doubt I can get the 225's without fender work. A fellow member with the same wheels told me what size spacers to use. Looks right in the front. The rears I am not sure on yet.
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| Todd Enlund |
May 24 2008, 09:59 PM
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#5
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Resident Photoshop Guru Group: Members Posts: 3,251 Joined: 24-August 07 From: Laurelhurst (Portland), Oregon Member No.: 8,032 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
Looks good. I just bought an '89 911 front for my car, so I'll be doing the same thing soon...
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| JRust |
May 25 2008, 02:37 AM
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#6
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 6,307 Joined: 10-January 03 From: Corvallis Oregon Member No.: 129 Region Association: Pacific Northwest
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QUOTE(Todd Enlund @ May 24 2008, 08:59 PM)  Looks good. I just bought an '89 911 front for my car, so I'll be doing the same thing soon... Good deal! I have some Chrome 16x7 fuchs if you haven't found any wheels yet. Well I have 2 available anyway. I bought a set of 3 from a guy who had ran into a curb. So the 4th was toast. I am going to keep one for my spare. So I will be selling the remaining 2. Have you decided on how you are doing the rear yet? I know Eric Shea is the guy to see about that. The swap is a simple one. You will need a 19mm master cylinder. Unless you have done that allready that is. We'll have to go for a drive one of these days. Always nice to see another 914 on the road. I'll be wanting to put on some miles pretty soon I hope (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif) |
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| Allan |
May 25 2008, 09:14 AM
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Teenerless Weenie Group: Members Posts: 8,373 Joined: 5-July 04 From: Western Mesopotamia Member No.: 2,304 Region Association: Southern California |
Wow, from looking at one of the pics it sure looks like that motor sticks way into the cabin.
What are you going to cover it with? Nice work on the suspension swap and the wheels look great... |
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| computers4kids |
May 25 2008, 09:41 AM
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Love these little cars! Group: Members Posts: 2,443 Joined: 11-June 05 From: Port Townsend, WA Member No.: 4,253 Region Association: None |
Jamie, it's hard to tell from the picture, but regarding the fan pulley...could you take the fan belt directly from the crank to the alternator and eliminate the fan pulley? Would that reduce the amount of protrusion? Alternatively, modify the fan pulley to a flat wheel rather than a cone.
Progress looks great...you're going to have a lot of fun with this car. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/thumb3d.gif) |
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| JRust |
May 25 2008, 10:51 AM
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#9
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 6,307 Joined: 10-January 03 From: Corvallis Oregon Member No.: 129 Region Association: Pacific Northwest
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QUOTE(Headrage @ May 25 2008, 08:14 AM) Wow, from looking at one of the pics it sure looks like that motor sticks way into the cabin. What are you going to cover it with? Nice work on the suspension swap and the wheels look great... The motor does stick way into the cabin. There is a fiberglass mold that attatches. I am planning on getting someone to make me a nice solid metal cover. It does make the backpad sit forward some. If there is a way to make the pulley system not stick out as much I would be all over it. This is my big gripe with the car. I love it otherwise! I'd like to get renegades newer dual fan radiator setup too. I'll start trying to fix some of that later. Once I get the tranny & suspension done. I plan to get some seat time before tearing into it again. With the clutch slipping so badly when I got it. I still haven't felt it's true power yet (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif) Soon it will be (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif) |
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| Todd Enlund |
May 25 2008, 02:40 PM
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#10
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Resident Photoshop Guru Group: Members Posts: 3,251 Joined: 24-August 07 From: Laurelhurst (Portland), Oregon Member No.: 8,032 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
QUOTE(JRust @ May 25 2008, 12:37 AM) We'll have to go for a drive one of these days. Always nice to see another 914 on the road. I'll be wanting to put on some miles pretty soon I hope (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif) That'd be great, but I am probably at least a year away from driving mine (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) Just being realistic... I did find an engine, though... 2.0 bus motor with 44IDFs for $400 will be the basis for a rebuild. Next purchase is a floorpan and a MIG. Gotta stimulate the economy (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) |
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| JRust |
May 25 2008, 09:52 PM
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#11
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 6,307 Joined: 10-January 03 From: Corvallis Oregon Member No.: 129 Region Association: Pacific Northwest
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Ouch! Floor pans are toast huh? Both front & rear or??? I admire you doing them yourself. That is something I would gladly pay someone else to do (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) .
Once I get mine running I'll see if I can head your way. Take you for a spin to bring back those 914 on the road memories (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif) |
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| JRust |
May 26 2008, 04:56 PM
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#12
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 6,307 Joined: 10-January 03 From: Corvallis Oregon Member No.: 129 Region Association: Pacific Northwest
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Need help on my axles. One of my axles has bad boots. Transaxle side is melted & the trailing arm side is cracked/ripped. Are these hard to change? My other problem is these are off a 911 & thicker than a stock 914 axle. Which also give it larger flanges. I need to make sure I get the right one. I believe it is the early 911 rear axles & hubs that work? Like 69-73? So is that the one I should order?
How about changing them once I get them? I haven't had to mess with axles before. Other than bolting them in or out anyway? Thanks Attached image(s)   
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| Todd Enlund |
May 26 2008, 05:11 PM
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#13
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Resident Photoshop Guru Group: Members Posts: 3,251 Joined: 24-August 07 From: Laurelhurst (Portland), Oregon Member No.: 8,032 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
QUOTE(JRust @ May 25 2008, 07:52 PM) Ouch! Floor pans are toast huh? Both front & rear or??? I admire you doing them yourself. That is something I would gladly pay someone else to do (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) . Drivers side front I can put my feet on the garage floor. There's enough rust elsewhere that I need to replace the whole pan, and a bit of the inner firewall on the passenger side. Rear window was apparently leaking for quite a while until DAPO RTVed it back in place. Don't admire it until I'm done... I may be in for more than I can handle (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) QUOTE(JRust @ May 25 2008, 07:52 PM) Once I get mine running I'll see if I can head your way. Take you for a spin to bring back those 914 on the road memories Mine has never been on the road while in my possession... I got it as a roller. Last time it was registered, it lived in Corvallis... |
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| Eric_Shea |
May 26 2008, 05:20 PM
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#14
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PMB Performance Group: Admin Posts: 19,275 Joined: 3-September 03 From: Salt Lake City, UT Member No.: 1,110 Region Association: Rocky Mountains  |
You're correct on the years for the 911 axles etc. You really should have some spacers on thos axles as well. 19mm I believe. The 911 axles are shorter than the 914 axles (see, these things happen for a reason). Do it right, do it once. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)
Check with John Flesburgh here. He's running the 911 axles, flanges and stub axles with his 914. He even has a CAD file for making the spacers. Without the spacers the life of the CV will be greatly reduced. I can get you the boots for around $6.00 each. Clamps would be around $6.00 for 4 of them. You need to take at least one CV off to change them. Plan on a roll of paper towels and plan on doing both. |
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| JRust |
May 26 2008, 09:27 PM
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#15
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 6,307 Joined: 10-January 03 From: Corvallis Oregon Member No.: 129 Region Association: Pacific Northwest
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QUOTE(Eric_Shea @ May 26 2008, 04:20 PM) You're correct on the years for the 911 axles etc. You really should have some spacers on thos axles as well. 19mm I believe. The 911 axles are shorter than the 914 axles (see, these things happen for a reason). Do it right, do it once. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) I took these directly of a six conversion. There was no spacer? So it will work but isn't right? I do want it to be done correctly no doubt. Especially with it being a v8. QUOTE Check with John Flesburgh here. He's running the 911 axles, flanges and stub axles with his 914. He even has a CAD file for making the spacers. Without the spacers the life of the CV will be greatly reduced. I'll try to find John on here & PM him. Anywhere else to get them? QUOTE I can get you the boots for around $6.00 each. Clamps would be around $6.00 for 4 of them. You need to take at least one CV off to change them. Plan on a roll of paper towels and plan on doing both. Sounds good Eric! Send me a PM with a total & your paypal email. Is $30 right? How do the spacers work? Where do they sit between the Transaxle & the Axle? Thanks. |
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| Eric_Shea |
May 26 2008, 09:38 PM
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PMB Performance Group: Admin Posts: 19,275 Joined: 3-September 03 From: Salt Lake City, UT Member No.: 1,110 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
QUOTE There was no spacer? So it will work but isn't right? It will work but your CV's are now in an extended position by roughly 3/4". If you further extend them you will crack the cage. Check Yarin's CV thread. There's a goodly amount of info in there. QUOTE I'll try to find John on here & PM him. Anywhere else to get them? Not sure if they're even made. If so PMS probably makes them but, I've yet to see them. Best to get John's CAD file and take it to a local machinest with a CAD capabilities. QUOTE How do the spacers work? Where do they sit between the Transaxle & the Axle? I believe you'd have them on one end. You'd have to go to www.mcmaster.com and get some longer bolts and that's about it. I have the file and I'd like to have a pair machined as well... anybody out there? |
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| RJMII |
May 27 2008, 01:55 PM
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#17
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Jim McIntosh Group: Members Posts: 3,125 Joined: 11-September 07 From: Sandy, Utah Member No.: 8,112 Region Association: None |
www.cnczone.com has a board for RFQ's... lots of people there w/cnc setups. (mine is still under construction. =o( )
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| JRust |
May 27 2008, 08:13 PM
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#18
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914 Guru Group: Members Posts: 6,307 Joined: 10-January 03 From: Corvallis Oregon Member No.: 129 Region Association: Pacific Northwest
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QUOTE(RJMII @ May 27 2008, 12:55 PM) www.cnczone.com has a board for RFQ's... lots of people there w/cnc setups. (mine is still under construction. =o( ) Definately out of my element (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) . What is RFQ's??? What about getting an an extra bearing housing & having it cut? You could get 2 out one end & would be a good spacer. It would be the right dimensions, the dowel & holes too! Just a thought. Seems like getting it CNC with a cad might be abit spendy? Thanks |
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| Todd Enlund |
May 27 2008, 08:34 PM
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#19
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Resident Photoshop Guru Group: Members Posts: 3,251 Joined: 24-August 07 From: Laurelhurst (Portland), Oregon Member No.: 8,032 Region Association: Pacific Northwest |
QUOTE(JRust @ May 27 2008, 06:13 PM) Request For Quotes. I was in the Air Force. I know all about TLAs. Three Letter Acronyms. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) |
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| RJMII |
May 27 2008, 10:07 PM
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Jim McIntosh Group: Members Posts: 3,125 Joined: 11-September 07 From: Sandy, Utah Member No.: 8,112 Region Association: None |
QUOTE(JRust @ May 27 2008, 08:13 PM) QUOTE(RJMII @ May 27 2008, 12:55 PM) www.cnczone.com has a board for RFQ's... lots of people there w/cnc setups. (mine is still under construction. =o( ) Definately out of my element (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) . What is RFQ's??? What about getting an an extra bearing housing & having it cut? You could get 2 out one end & would be a good spacer. It would be the right dimensions, the dowel & holes too! Just a thought. Seems like getting it CNC with a cad might be abit spendy? Thanks It may seem that way, but it all depends on the part, material, and who is submitting the quote. If someone could email the cad file to me, and tell me what material, I'll see how spendy, or 'not spendy' we can find... Certainly not out of my element, just out of my collection of tools ATM. (at the moment. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) ) |
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