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> @$!$##% cone screw
GaroldShaffer
post Jun 5 2008, 02:54 PM
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Just got to vent. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/chair.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/screwy.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/icon8.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/ar15.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif)

As stupid as it sounds I can't get the cone screw out of the shift linkage of my parts car. The inside of the screw is rounded out and none of my hex keys will fit. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

Going to pickup a set of easy outs and try that, otherwise I guess I will drill it out. This is a good side shift linkage and I don't want to mess it up.

Its amazing how some thing so simple can become such a PITA (IMG:style_emoticons/default/screwy.gif)
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Demick
post Jun 5 2008, 03:14 PM
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Do you have a set of torx bits? I've often found that if a hex is rounded out, that a torx of the right size can be hammered into the recess and get it out. Torx is 6 point, so just line up the points on the torx with where the hex points are and tap it in with a hammer.

Demick
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Bartlett 914
post Jun 5 2008, 03:23 PM
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Heat it with a propane torch. It may have been glued in place with Loctite. Heat will loosen the glue. Pretty warm is good enough I am guessing 250 to 300 should be enough.
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r_towle
post Jun 5 2008, 03:26 PM
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drill it out, the easyout will break, its to small.
Use heat and pb blaster....
then left hand drill bit...get a super hard one, the screw is hardened steel.

If its sticking out a little bit, think about putting a nut on it (mine stick out a bit) and then weld the nut from the inside to the cone screw.
the combination of the drastic heat and a big nut to grab typically works well.

Rich
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Bartlett 914
post Jun 5 2008, 04:32 PM
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Drilling it out can be a problem. You don't want to damage the tapered hole in the shift rod by drilling too deep. If you drill too shallow. then removing the end piece will still be difficult and the remaining piece in the hole may not come out. Drilling is a last resort.
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rick 918-S
post Jun 5 2008, 04:40 PM
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Don't use an easy out. Place a washer over the stub of the cone screw, weld it to the screw, then weld a nut to the washer. You will get a better weld starting with the washer than you'll get if you go straight to the nut.
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TheCabinetmaker
post Jun 5 2008, 04:47 PM
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Try what Demick suggested first. It has always worked for me.
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ejm
post Jun 5 2008, 05:39 PM
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QUOTE(vsg914 @ Jun 5 2008, 06:47 PM) *

Try what Demick suggested first. It has always worked for me.


(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) And heat it first like Mark said. A heat gun will will work if a torch isn't handy.
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helios
post Jun 5 2008, 06:05 PM
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I had the opposite problem with mine. Mine wouldn't get tight. The threads were all but stripped out of the coupler. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) I ended up drilling the hole larger, retapping, and modifying a larger bolt to seat in the taper. While I was at it, added a jam nut to relieve excess tension off the assembly while keeping the bolt locked in place. Good luck with the removal. Stripped bolts have to be one of the spawns of the devil.
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GaroldShaffer
post Jun 7 2008, 09:11 PM
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Thanks guys, I will try your suggestions when we get back home. We are spending the weekend in St Germain Wisconsin fishing. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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bandjoey
post Jun 7 2008, 10:29 PM
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PB Blaster!!!! [font=Arial Black] [size=5]

I just stripped my 914 to the tub, and the cone screws introduced me to PB Blaster. Use it on everything. Let it soak a while before trying to unscrew. It's a miracle worker!
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif)
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Jeff Hail
post Jun 8 2008, 02:07 AM
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Put some valve grinding compound in the socket and stick the hex in and turn.
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sean_v8_914
post Jun 8 2008, 02:26 AM
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hey rich, I just used that trick on a stud about 3 hrs ago...cool
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sean_v8_914
post Jun 8 2008, 02:27 AM
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PS. Ive been eye balling that street sign
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EyeTrip
post Jun 8 2008, 02:40 AM
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Harbor freight (even thought I don't like em) have rervers easy outs that might save the day. I would use heat and try the reverse easy out. IMHO.
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Joe Ricard
post Jun 8 2008, 06:25 AM
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take the whole effin thing out of the car. disconnect it from the shifter and the remove the console from the trans.
easier to cus at on the work bench than under the car on jack stands.
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736conver
post Jun 8 2008, 10:24 AM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) on the torx bit

In fact I just used this trick on my go kart's bleeder screw.

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Cap'n Krusty
post Jun 8 2008, 11:21 AM
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QUOTE(bandjoey @ Jun 7 2008, 09:29 PM) *

PB Blaster!!!! [font=Arial Black] [size=5]

I just stripped my 914 to the tub, and the cone screws introduced me to PB Blaster. Use it on everything. Let it soak a while before trying to unscrew. It's a miracle worker!
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif)


PB Blaster isn't known for freeing up the plastic button that locks
the screw in place ............... The Cap'n
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So.Cal.914
post Jun 8 2008, 02:21 PM
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QUOTE(r_towle @ Jun 5 2008, 02:26 PM) *

drill it out, the easyout will break, its to small.
Use heat and pb blaster....
then left hand drill bit...get a super hard one, the screw is hardened steel.

If its sticking out a little bit, think about putting a nut on it (mine stick out a bit) and then weld the nut from the inside to the cone screw.
the combination of the drastic heat and a big nut to grab typically works well.

Rich


Good Answer... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)
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