Muriatic Acid and Fuchs Options

[orthobiz]

A coworker cleaned the heck out of his wife's Jeep wheels with this stuff. Man, they look sweet!

I did a search here, found Muriatic acid but didn't hear about anybody putting them on wheels. My Fuchs 2.0 alloys have discoloration...brake dust, balancing weight stickers, etc.

Is this the stuff they use to totally ruin/remove the anodization or could it possibly spiff up my wheels?

Paul

[thomasotten]

I don't know, but EZOFF will remove the anodizing.

[james2]

Muriatic Acid dissolves aluminum. slowly, but completely.

Muriatic acid is used to clean aluminum, but it leaves a smooth matte finish. never put it on a polished surface . It will quickly remove any shine and also will instantly remove anodization.

I was using a very weak solution to clean the cooling fins on a head, and a small amount splashed on my mag lite, which is anodized bright blue. The acid left the flash light colorless and with a matte finish where it hit it.

[james2]

I don't know, but EZOFF will remove the anodizing.

It will also remove the ceramic coating on headers....bad stuff. keep it away from your car. LOL

[carr914]

And keep it away from other cleaners, especially bleach, unless you want mustard gas and want to off yourself

[SGB]

Except rust. Muratic acid is also "rust converter".

[orthobiz]

Thanks.
Sounds like I'll stay away!

biz

[Gint]

Thanks.
Sounds like I'll stay away!

biz

I might do exactly the opposite. Tell me more. Where do you get it? Precautions using it? Nitrile gloves? Heavier? Respirator? Dilute it in general or just for some specific uses?

[KG1500S]

I might do exactly the opposite. Tell me more. Where do you get it? Precautions using it? Nitrile gloves? Heavier? Respirator? Dilute it in general or just for some specific uses?

FYI, Muriatic Acid is consumer name for hydrochloric acid (HCl). Echo previous comments about keeping it away from caustic cleaners, as the reaction releases intense heat (which will spit this nasty concoction all over you) and chlorine gas.

Found a random MSDS on google for you.

http://www.jtbaker.com/msds/englishhtml/h3883.htm

Good luck!

[Pat Garvey]

Thanks.
Sounds like I'll stay away!

biz

I might do exactly the opposite. Tell me more. Where do you get it? Precautions using it? Nitrile gloves? Heavier? Respirator? Dilute it in general or just for some specific uses?

You can get it from comercial chemical companies, but expect to sign your life away. Take it from experience (mine) - stay away from it. Muriatic Acid is a diluted form or Hydrochloric Acid (HCL). Anyone notice the CL in HCL? When it reacts with many items, it releases Chlorine ions - read death, or near so.

I was subjected to Chlorine gas accidentally in the early 70's - in a laboratory environment & by mistake. When your lips & skin under you nailes become blue, you are near death. The chlorine ions block your body from absorbing oxygen, even in dilute forms.

Back in the old days, people used Muriatic acid (dilute HCL) to clean concrete - wonder why none of those old guys are still around!

Stay away from this stuff! It has no useful purpose, except to create chemical reaction in controlled environments. It's very similar to Sulfuric acid (H2SO4). Has a singular purpose outside of commercial uses, and will KILL you at the drop of a hat. Both eat the crap out of aluminum - and I mean EAT, so don't even think about it.

Now, let's say you pay no attention to what I'm saying. Yep, you could use a respirator, gloves (not nitrile). What do you do with the leftovers? Can't put it in the trash, because it will destroy the garbage truck (guess who pays for that?). Can't pour it doen the storm drain, because...the same. They WILL trace it back!.

You COULD dilute it enough (know how to do that) to make it safe to pour down your kitchen sink, but that would take about 40 gallons of water to one gallon of HCL. and there are no promises there.

Look, these compounds are created for chemical reaction in controlled environment. You CAN be killed, or terribly burned by these. Leave these to professionals!

And, if you must use HCL, never, ever add water to the acid! Add the acid (very, very slowly) to water. If it starts bubbling, get the hell out! Open all windows & doors; Stay away for at least 20 minutes.

Jeez guys - don't mess with things you don't appreciate or understand!
Pat

[Richard Casto]

You can buy Muriatic acid at stored like Lowes/Home Depot. It is sold at these stores for the purpose of cleaning concrete floors.

Acid will brighten up aluminum and magnesium for sure because It is not cleaning it (removing dirt, etc.), but rather eating away the metal under the dirt.

[Bartlett 914]

You can buy Muriatic acid at stored like Lowes/Home Depot. It is sold at these stores for the purpose of cleaning concrete floors.

Acid will brighten up aluminum and magnesium for sure because It is not cleaning it (removing dirt, etc.), but rather eating away the metal under the dirt.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

It is also used for changing the PH in swimming pools. Will rust steel pretty fast. My customers use it to de-oxidize the copper cylinders. Anything steel laying around will corrode. They use rubber gloves for protection. No Idea what it would do to Fuch wheels.

[rhodyguy]

it will "eat" mortar off of masonry. it will "eat" your clothing. it will "eat" your eyes. it will "eat" your skin. the fumes will "eat" the lining of your lungs. prob ruin your wheels. why bother with it?

k

[r_towle]

proper protection and muriatic acid is safe (outdoors)

Its very fumey...toxic, and is burns your skin...

When doing a pool or patio use tyvex outer suit, hat, rubber gloves (thick ones) and a respirator...

It works wonders, but it hurts.
I am one of those guys that used to clean concrete with it. I never wore any protection...I am still here.

I would never do it like that again...

Rich

[carr914]

If you go into a Mom & Pop hardware or Paint store and see rusted paint can tops, it's because they have Muriactic Acid nearby. The fumes escape, react with the humidity in the air, settle on the can-tops, reaction starts, same result as a Hell-Hole with a battery over it.

T.C.

[SLITS]

As I remember, concentrated HCl is about 36 Baume. Muratic is <5% solution of HCl.

For purposes of brightening aluminum, phosphoric acid is used. Much less reactive than HCl or H2SO4. Commercially available from an HVAC Wholesaler as "Ice Machine Cleaner".

Aluminum brightners used to clean A/C condenser coils was phosphoric with a hydroflouric acid kicker.

Coke, Pepsi, etc all contain phosphoric acid. Try pouring one on your wheels ... very slow reacting.

Easy Off is NaOH (Sodium Hydroxide) ..... it will eat aluminum rapidly in it's concentrated form .... Also used to dissolve bodies (Lye).

Grease and oils will not be affected by acids ... it takes hydroxides to affect them.

[zymurgist]

Also used to dissolve bodies (Lye).

That's what I love about this place... I find useful information here every day.

[Cevan]

I used it as one of the steps in refurbishing my gastank. I used the system from Eastwood. I used heavy rubber gloves, a fullface shield, and did it outdoors. No problems. Just don't be stupid.

[Smitty911]

Just don't be stupid.

If it was only that easy, How do you not be stupid?

I'd find a different solution (no pun intended).

Smitty

[balljoint]

For purposes of brightening aluminum, phosphoric acid is used. Much less reactive than HCl or H2SO4. Commercially available from an HVAC Wholesaler as "Ice Machine Cleaner".

Phosphoric acid is also commercially available in Coca Cola. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) Ever sit a corroded old penny in a glass of Coke? It will be bright and new in a few hours. Coke is relatively cheap and might be worth experimenting with. You just need a big rubber tub and a few big bottles of the stuff...and maybe some rum to make the time pass.