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> My car wont start, It ran when i bought it but won't start
turnaround89
post Aug 19 2008, 12:46 AM
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Little background first. Bought the car about a month ago and drove it around the neighborhood for a little while since it wasnt insured, never out on actual roads with other drivers. I got the insurance on the car and took it out for its first real drive. Drove the car for about 30 min and stopped at the bank to make a deposit. When i went back out the car would not start, couldn't even jump start the car. So i had to have it towed home, the drive cost me 50 dollars.

Well, i get the car back to the garage and start tearing into it, thinking it might be the starter, well i can't change the starter until the engine comes out(unless someone can help me there) but the starter seems fine, because i replaced the battery and the starter had lots more power. So new battery didn't make the car fire up, only the starter would crank the car, but no actual running engine. Replaced the spark plugs(they were horrible, gaped correctly) didn't do a thing. The starter cranks the engine but it will not fire up. I changed the fuel filter(and some of the fuel lines because they were horrible) today and that didn't help either. The old filter was pretty nasty. Hooked the fuel pump back up and the car still won't fire, starter cranks, but the engine won't turn over and start. I have ordered a new coil and spark plug wires. I had a friend with me and he watched the spark come through the wires and said it was really weak. However, if this doesn't solve my starting problem, what else could there be?

My dad says to check the timing and possibly the fuel pump might not even be working. The car ran two weeks ago, is it possible the fuel pump went out?

Oh yea, the car originally came with the 2.0L but the PO sold it and put a 1.8L carbed engine in. I can get more info about the engine if it helps.

Thanks everybody. Here are some pictures of the car, i am hoping for a 916 clone. I need the rear bumper and thats it(unless i want a steel roof, which i don't)

(IMG:http://photos-g.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v307/98/57/507290528/n507290528_3615990_1068.jpg)
(IMG:http://photos-g.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v307/98/57/507290528/n507290528_3615998_4055.jpg)
(IMG:http://photos-b.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v307/98/57/507290528/n507290528_3616001_4924.jpg)

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914rhatt
post Aug 19 2008, 12:53 AM
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QUOTE(turnaround89 @ Aug 18 2008, 11:46 PM) *

Little background first. Bought the car about a month ago and drove it around the neighborhood for a little while since it wasnt insured, never out on actual roads with other drivers. I got the insurance on the car and took it out for its first real drive. Drove the car for about 30 min and stopped at the bank to make a deposit. When i went back out the car would not start, couldn't even jump start the car. So i had to have it towed home, the drive cost me 50 dollars.

Well, i get the car back to the garage and start tearing into it, thinking it might be the starter, well i can't change the starter until the engine comes out(unless someone can help me there) but the starter seems fine, because i replaced the battery and the starter had lots more power. So new battery didn't make the car fire up, only the starter would crank the car, but no actual running engine. Replaced the spark plugs(they were horrible, gaped correctly) didn't do a thing. The starter cranks the engine but it will not fire up. I changed the fuel filter(and some of the fuel lines because they were horrible) today and that didn't help either. The old filter was pretty nasty. Hooked the fuel pump back up and the car still won't fire, starter cranks, but the engine won't turn over and start. I have ordered a new coil and spark plug wires. I had a friend with me and he watched the spark come through the wires and said it was really weak. However, if this doesn't solve my starting problem, what else could there be?

My dad says to check the timing and possibly the fuel pump might not even be working. The car ran two weeks ago, is it possible the fuel pump went out?

Oh yea, the car originally came with the 2.0L but the PO sold it and put a 1.8L carbed engine in. I can get more info about the engine if it helps.

Thanks everybody. Here are some pictures of the car, i am hoping for a 916 clone. I need the rear bumper and thats it(unless i want a steel roof, which i don't)

(IMG:http://photos-g.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v307/98/57/507290528/n507290528_3615990_1068.jpg)
(IMG:http://photos-g.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v307/98/57/507290528/n507290528_3615998_4055.jpg)
(IMG:http://photos-b.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v307/98/57/507290528/n507290528_3616001_4924.jpg)

So you have checked the points in the distributor? Some times they get dirty and cause the thing to have no spark...take a dollar between the points and run it back and forth to clean it (Or you can take a fine file) (The dollar wo)n't take the material out just the dirt or carbon)
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rhodyguy
post Aug 19 2008, 09:27 AM
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you should hear the pump running when you turn the key to the first position. single or dual carbs?

k
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SGB
post Aug 19 2008, 10:12 AM
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Check the transmission ground strap. Make sure it has a REAL connection, not rust to corrosion. Thats a pretty poor conductor.
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angerosa
post Aug 19 2008, 10:23 AM
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QUOTE(rhodyguy @ Aug 19 2008, 11:27 AM) *

you should hear the pump running when you turn the key to the first position. single or dual carbs?

k


(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

Totally - You can't miss this. There should be no doubt that the pump is on. If still have a doubt - you can disconnect the fuel line and run it into a gas can and turn the key to the first position and see if gas flows. You shouldn't even need to do this - you should hear it and there should be no doubt.

If your car ran really well when it was running (no back fire, skippng, sudden loss of power). It's most likely an electrical problem. This tells me your carbs are tuned, engine and ignition timing were good. It's rare those things change enough over one ride so that your car just doesn't work at all.

It scares me that you're wondering if it's the starter when your engine cranks.

Look at condenser, points, cap, rotor, coil and I'll bet you'll find your problem. Weak spark might be condensor or coil.

Some things you should know:
Your car looks pretty cool.
$50 tow is cheap. It could have been much worse.
Welcome to owning a 30+ year old car.
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mstein95
post Aug 19 2008, 10:30 AM
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BTDT - my fuel pump went bad on the drive home from picking it up from the seller. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

Instant buyers remorse.

If it is the pump, and you are looking for a new one - be prepared for sticker shock. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)
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Joe Ricard
post Aug 19 2008, 10:34 AM
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Treat each system separately. Starter rolls engine over = good leave it alone.
carbs squirt gas down the holes when you move the linkage to wide open. = good leave it alone you are getting gas.
Listen for fuel pump noise good leave it alone.
spark weak = all kinds of things mentioned above. points, coil, bad connections, bad transmission to chasis ground, Make them good and leave it alone.
Try to start car = no start squirt ether down carbs does it run for a second and die? = plugs idle jets.
Just gotta learn what each thing does and make it right and then LEAVE IT ALONE.

Starters can be pulled in under 5 minutes counting putting the car on jackstands.
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turnaround89
post Aug 19 2008, 11:45 AM
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When you say the pump should turn on with the key in the first position are you talking about the accessory position on the ignition switch? Or is there a position before the accesory position? I wouldn't be asking that question if i were right next to the car, but the cars sits at a friends house who has a garage i can work on it in, so when i work on it, i have to drive there.

The engine is only a single carb setup.

How in the world can you pull the starter in 5 minutes, i can't get to the top bolt?And yes, the car is on jack stands.

thanks everybody, i will try to get some work done today, but i have a night class to go to, if not today, i will do it after class tomorrow!!
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Rand
post Aug 19 2008, 11:54 AM
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Check the little braided ground wire between the distributor plates. If it breaks or comes loose where it's soldered at one of the ends, you will get super weak spark and it won't run.

If you pull a plug wire and hold the metal conductor end close to metal on the engine and have someone crank it and move the wire closer to the metal until it sparks.... What is the spark like? Bright blue and scares you? Then good. Yellow and weak.... Spark problem. Check points and their grounds.
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ChrisFoley
post Aug 19 2008, 11:58 AM
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QUOTE(turnaround89 @ Aug 19 2008, 01:45 PM) *

How in the world can you pull the starter in 5 minutes, i can't get to the top bolt?

The nut is accessed in the engine compartment. The bolt is held captive by the starter, so it won't turn.
You can actually pull the starter without jacking up the car.
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tdgray
post Aug 19 2008, 12:05 PM
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QUOTE(mstein95 @ Aug 19 2008, 12:30 PM) *

BTDT - my fuel pump went bad on the drive home from picking it up from the seller. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

Instant buyers remorse.

If it is the pump, and you are looking for a new one - be prepared for sticker shock. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)



Too much confusion in this thread... he does not have the orginal FI so if it is the fuel pump it should not be that bad.

Remember three things.

Air Fuel Spark... that is all it takes. Verify these first and then diagnose. Your running in too many directions at once.
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type47
post Aug 19 2008, 12:41 PM
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i disagree with the hearing the pump run for 3 sec when you turn on the ignition key. that would happen if you have a d-jet and you posted you have a 1.8 with a carb.
i agree with the post about air-fuel-spark. fuel and spark are "easy" to verify; pull a plug wire and take a spare plug and put it in the plug wire (no need to remove the plug from the head). being careful that it is a high tension wire, ground the plug threads and crank the engine and look for/listen for spark. put a fuel pressure gauge (yours will probably be low pressure ~5psi (?) since it's carbed) in line with the fuel line. crank engine and look for pressure reading.
once you find the culprit, then there is another whole list of possible faults (more than are listed above!!!!)
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SGB
post Aug 19 2008, 01:05 PM
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Most carburated cars have had a low pressure fuel pump installed near the spare tire in front. The sound from a running one is pretty apparent, especially if you are pretty close to it. Some carb conversions are done with a pressure reducing valve and stock pump. A replacement low pressure pump is less than $50.00. I'm still thimking electrical....
Say, did you clean the battery cable clamps inside with sandpaper when you put in another battery?
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736conver
post Aug 19 2008, 01:43 PM
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QUOTE
Too much confusion in this thread... he does not have the orginal FI so if it is the fuel pump it should not be that bad.

Remember three things.

Air Fuel Spark... that is all it takes. Verify these first and then diagnose. Your running in too many directions at once.



I agree keep it simple. Air Fuel Spark.

Find out which one you are missing.

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JOE M
post Aug 20 2008, 07:11 AM
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My fuel pump had a bad connection and would not come on. I remember that the "chadder" noise was no longer there and the car just cranked and cranked and cranked. I opened the the latch and found that the connector going from the coil to the pump was off. I put it back on and presto it started lol. But it does sound like electrical problem.
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ChopNotch
post Aug 20 2008, 08:00 AM
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Did you try and push start the car?

1. It started and ran fine on short duration trips around the neighborhood.
2. When you "really" warmed it up it would not crank.

Try and push start it.

If it runs, hit a vendor who sells the Bosh hot start relay. Mine did the same thing when hot and I installed the relay last week. No problems so far.

http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/wired/wired_0...wired_03_01.htm

It should be under $30 and takes about 15 minutes to install (4 wires on the starter)

If it wont push start, it's probably something stated above. If it does push start, get the relay.

Good luck!
Chop
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angerosa
post Aug 20 2008, 08:04 AM
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QUOTE(tdgray @ Aug 19 2008, 02:05 PM) *

QUOTE(mstein95 @ Aug 19 2008, 12:30 PM) *

BTDT - my fuel pump went bad on the drive home from picking it up from the seller. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

Instant buyers remorse.

If it is the pump, and you are looking for a new one - be prepared for sticker shock. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)



Too much confusion in this thread... he does not have the orginal FI so if it is the fuel pump it should not be that bad.

Remember three things.

Air Fuel Spark... that is all it takes. Verify these first and then diagnose. Your running in too many directions at once.


(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

I think AA sells these pumps for not that much.

Since he's a single carb - the fuel pump runs constantly if it's the same setup as mine. It's a low pressure pump that just runs and when the fuel reaches pressure, it continues to run but doesn't pump anything. No return line to gas tank. It was foreign to me and a buddy of mine had to explain it.

I think the fuel pump runs in all position except off. Definately should hear it in the on position.
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angerosa
post Aug 20 2008, 08:06 AM
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QUOTE(JOE M @ Aug 20 2008, 09:11 AM) *

My fuel pump had a bad connection and would not come on. I remember that the "chadder" noise was no longer there and the car just cranked and cranked and cranked. I opened the the latch and found that the connector going from the coil to the pump was off. I put it back on and presto it started lol. But it does sound like electrical problem.


Yes - That happened to me too.
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turnaround89
post Aug 20 2008, 09:10 PM
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Well, i finally got to work on the car today and learned how to change the starter, very simple. So i have a new starter in the car.

Found out that the car is not getting any gas at all, but the car would fire and run for about a second on starter fluid. I sprayed some down the carb and the car fired up and ran, but died shortly after. Pulled the fuel line and tried to start the car and no fuel came through the line. Also, with the key in the on position you cannot here the fuel pump at all, so i think i need a new fuel pump. The car is getting spark, air, and now it needs fuel. It made me very happy to here the car actually run, even though it was only for a second, it was such a great sound to here again!!!

What Fuel pump should i buy for my 1.8L single carb engine? Don't know if i mentioned it but i have already changed the fuel filter and a couple of the fuel lines.

Thanks everybody for the help, now i just need to know which pump to buy. Also, i think the car already has the hot start relay kit on it. When i changed the starter there were two wires attached to the starter(not including the yellow one) The one that comes from the battery and the other one is a red wire. Also there is a relay that is taped to the inside of the engine compartment, i don't have the hot start relay hooked up(if that is what the relay is for) bc the end that gets bolted onto to the starter broke when i put the new starter in and i didn't have another electrical connection to splice on the end, so i left it off for now.
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ChopNotch
post Aug 20 2008, 10:06 PM
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Yep, that's the hot start relay.

I had a very wrong fuel pump when I got my car. I had the FI pump with dual Dellorto Carbs. Can't believe it even ran before. The pressure is too high so don't go stock. I put an AutoZone $49 fuel pump on mine and it's run great since. They usually stock two that look similar. One pump they sell is blue and one is red. Just make sure the pressure rating is 3.5-5 lbs of pressure.
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