Installation of early 911 e-brake, Has anybody done this in Southern CA Options

[dempwolf@pctribe.com]

Been getting lots of good suggestions from Eric Shea, and I've read how others have installed the early 911 e-brake hardware on their 914-6's right on this site, but prior to me starting this project I sure would love to see how it was done by someone in the southern CA area, if that's you or you know someone who has done it successfully please give me a jingle. Thanks Karl dempwolf@pacbell.net
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif)

[So.Cal.914]

Aaron did.

[dempwolf@pctribe.com]

Aaron did.

Mike can you tell me how I can get a hold of Aaron. Thanks Karl

[So.Cal.914]

Aaron did.

Mike can you tell me how I can get a hold of Aaron. Thanks Karl

Mike who?

Aaron Cox, he's a member here. College student so he pops in from time to time.

PM him.

[Wes V]

I'm currently working on it and I'm in Winnetka.

What kind of question do you have.

Wes Vann

[dempwolf@pctribe.com]

Just want to show you what hardware I've got, what else do I need to get, and then when Matthias at the Carrera Garage in Simi is ready to do the work and he has his own ideas on how to do it, since God knows I personally have only a limited knowledge of how this whole thing will go together, can I have him talk to you to see what way would be best. If you are in the process of doing it, me coming to see you and take pictures would be helpful as well.
Brad Roberts on the 914 Club site see(Garage) may have the swing arms the early 911 brakes (which I already bought and cleaned up) but don't know if all that stuff is for sale or how much it will cost, or if I need it all. Wondering if taking my existing control arms and grinding them to fit is probably a cheaper way to go, is it worth saving the swing arms on the car now? Thanks for your offer to ask questions. Karl dempwolf@pacbell.net 818-788-0173

[Wes V]

Karl;

There is already enough information and photos on the web. When I was doing research, I made up the following page, just to get all my thoughts and reference links in one place. It has links to all sorts of pages within the 914world site.

brake info page

The big thing that varies from installation to installation is the hook-up of the cable. I like what Larry Hubby did and as a result, there may not be that much included covering the "bell crank" method. (the bell-crank only pulls on one of the spreaders)

Larry's method works more like the original 911 design in that it both pulls (the cable) and pushes (the housing) the spreaders.

Wes

[Eric_Shea]

or if I need it all

You don't.

The idea was to get a handbrake on the arms you have now and then put together a set of proper vintage arms (with the proper tabs and cable mounts) for your GT calipers. That way, when you decide to make the switch, you put the original cables in and bolt on the original arms.

Early 911 brakes would be a step backward from what you have now and, your bias should be matched "OK" given what your fronts are [edit: however you may be talking about early 911 handbrakes, not sure. If that's the case; what you have is what you need]. If you were to do something like that, simply get the proper arms now and use the 914-6/GT calipers you have. They have the same pads and 38mm pistons the early 911 calipers would have.

Karl, you're 99% there. You have all the parts you need to make it happen utilizing your existing calipers and control arms as the basis.

You should be able to drop them off with Matthias and have him put it together. Have him call me if he has any questions.

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[dempwolf@pctribe.com]

Mike and Eric but particularly Wes I took my 911 cable with instructions from the mechanic who will be installing the early 911 e-brake on the 914 and found that none of motorcycle shops in the San Fernando Valley would do. They sent me to Fosters where bike shops go to have their specialty cables made. Fosters is in Pasadena and when I told them what I want they said they could produce what I had in mind. A short cable about 13 long, a flex band area for about half of that length in the middle, a 6mm threaded 2-3 inch section on one end and a device on the other end to attach the cable that goes to the handbrake lever. Wes where did you go to have your cables made. Thanks for your time. Karl

[dempwolf@pctribe.com]

Corrction Fosters said they could NOT produce what I had in mind. Where did you go?? Thanks Karl

[Wes V]

OK, I'll drop a hint.

Go by a shop that sells parts for old air cooled VW's and tell them you want to see the cable for a 1970/71 VW bus. (a whopping 14 dollars and you would need two)

I'll even show a couple "preliminary" photos.

(IMG:http://www.performanceforum.com/wesvann/914a/brake1.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.performanceforum.com/wesvann/914a/brake2.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.performanceforum.com/wesvann/914a/brake3.jpg)

I'm going to do a complete write up some time over the week-end. What needs to be known is that the cable is long enough and the sheathing will be spliced longer, as required.

That stainless steel tube is free to slide in and out. The metal bracket around it is to limit side to side displacement.

The "stock" sheathing dead-heads 1 inch into the stainless tubing when it hits a shoulder.

I had to turn a couple parts out of stainless steel on a lath. (no big cost, I used a stainless steel 1/2" diameter bolt for it's shaft. It cost me $7.50.

Wes

[dempwolf@pctribe.com]

Wes Thanks for the pix and info. Karl

[PeeGreen 914]

OK, I'll drop a hint.

Go by a shop that sells parts for old air cooled VW's and tell them you want to see the cable for a 1970/71 VW bus. (a whopping 14 dollars and you would need two)

I'll even show a couple "preliminary" photos.

(IMG:http://www.performanceforum.com/wesvann/914a/brake1.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.performanceforum.com/wesvann/914a/brake2.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.performanceforum.com/wesvann/914a/brake3.jpg)

I'm going to do a complete write up some time over the week-end. What needs to be known is that the cable is long enough and the sheathing will be spliced longer, as required.

That stainless steel tube is free to slide in and out. The metal bracket around it is to limit side to side displacement.

The "stock" sheathing dead-heads 1 inch into the stainless tubing when it hits a shoulder.

I had to turn a couple parts out of stainless steel on a lath. (no big cost, I used a stainless steel 1/2" diameter bolt for it's shaft. It cost me $7.50.

Wes

More please (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) I am at the point of needing cables and this sounds like the ticket. I'll be looking forward to your writeup. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)

[Wes V]

Here is a link to the preliminary write-up. It covers how I did the cables.

My Webpage

and here is another photo;

(IMG:http://www.performanceforum.com/wesvann/914a/my-rear-brake/b-mrb1.jpg)

Wes

[dempwolf@pctribe.com]

Thanks for everyone's help and suggestions, my e-brake is in an working the way it should. The pictures really helped. Thanks Karl

[Wes V]

Thanks for everyone's help and suggestions, my e-brake is in an working the way it should. The pictures really helped. Thanks Karl

So, what method did you use?

Wes

[charliew]

This is very good info. I will also be doing this but before I tackle the cables I am going to look at a fiero parts car I have as it uses cable actuated rear emergency brakes. The park brake lever is in the same general location as the 914 and the lever will fall back down after it is set to be out of the way. Just a thought.

[sixnotfour]

Thanks for everyone's help and suggestions, my e-brake is in an working the way it should. The pictures really helped. Thanks Karl

Would be nice if you took a picture of your install.