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> Projekt: 914 GT4, Everyone needs a build thread...
jc914
post Nov 22 2008, 08:07 AM
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keep up the good job. and keep us posted.
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Todd Enlund
post Jan 6 2009, 08:46 PM
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I dropped my crankshaft off today at Dan Hall's machine shop. It gave me a warm fuzzy when I walked in the door and before the door was closed, someone said "wow, a type IV... and it's a 2 liter!" I was quoted $130 to mag and check straightness, and grind if it checks good. That was about what I expected.
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sixnotfour
post Jan 6 2009, 08:50 PM
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QUOTE
and grind if it checks good.

If it checks good -polish ?
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Todd Enlund
post Jan 6 2009, 09:32 PM
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QUOTE(sixnotfour @ Jan 6 2009, 06:50 PM) *

QUOTE
and grind if it checks good.

If it checks good -polish ?

No, it's scored... it'll need to be ground. By "checks good", I meant "is straight and not cracked".

$100 for a 78mm crank and a set of clearanced rods, and $130 for machine work... $230 for a 78mm crank is a bargain.
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roadster fan
post Jan 7 2009, 07:54 AM
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QUOTE(Todd Enlund @ Oct 23 2008, 09:50 AM) *

13 July 2008

Went to the WCR 2008 in Issaquah, and had a blast. Rode around with Jim (roadster fan) for two days. Picked up some more rubber at the silent auction… a set of engine seals. I’m not saying how much I got them for (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)



Jim's is the beautiful silver car second from the front on the right.



(IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif) LOL! Todd, I just went back and looked at you build thread and I think I missed this when you posted it. You said "the beautiful silver car" (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

I think heeltoe914 said it best when he saw a picture of you and I leaving the lunch spot near Mt. Ranier in my 71: "why is it the guys with the under restored cars seem to be having the most fun?"

Keep plugging away at the car hope to see it at a WCR soon.

Jim
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OU8AVW
post Jan 7 2009, 10:31 AM
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QUOTE(Todd Enlund @ Oct 23 2008, 09:45 AM) *

9 June 2008

I bought some 1989 911 front suspension parts from a guy on the bird board. Spindles/rotors/hubs/struts/calipers for $350 + $50 shipping.

Edit: As of October 2008, all I have received is the rotors/hubs/calipers. The guy’s name is Mike Hogan from Bethesda, MD 301-706-2896, mhogan@umd.edu


I'm in Annapolis if you need me to go after the parts for you.
P.S. I'm 6'3" and a third degree blackbelt (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif)
Just kidding, but if you need someone on the ground let me know.....
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Todd Enlund
post Jan 7 2009, 10:50 AM
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QUOTE(OU8AVW @ Jan 7 2009, 08:31 AM) *

QUOTE(Todd Enlund @ Oct 23 2008, 09:45 AM) *

9 June 2008

I bought some 1989 911 front suspension parts from a guy on the bird board. Spindles/rotors/hubs/struts/calipers for $350 + $50 shipping.

Edit: As of October 2008, all I have received is the rotors/hubs/calipers. The guy’s name is Mike Hogan from Bethesda, MD 301-706-2896, mhogan@umd.edu


I'm in Annapolis if you need me to go after the parts for you.
P.S. I'm 6'3" and a third degree blackbelt (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif)
Just kidding, but if you need someone on the ground let me know.....

This guy shouldn't be too much trouble, then... he's a skinny little punk. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

I just tracked him down on VW Vortex, and he's apparently moved to Boston. I think he goes back and forth between the two. He's trying to feed me a bunch of sob stories and tells me that he's shipped the struts three times, and thought that I got them because I never contacted him, but he's had loads of trouble with UPS singling him out and holding his shipments. He stopped checking the bird board, and doesn't answer e-mail. He's got 1121 posts on VW Vortex to my 1, so he's trying to discredit me. I wish I had a valid address for him.
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J P Stein
post Jan 7 2009, 11:09 AM
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I like Dan Hall's. It looks & smells like a machine shop should. The folks there have dirt under their finger nails.

Don't forget, YOU are responsible for cleaning out the oil passages in your crank after grind/polish. Clean till you're cross-eyed, then do it summore.
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Todd Enlund
post Jan 7 2009, 11:19 AM
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QUOTE(J P Stein @ Jan 7 2009, 09:09 AM) *

I like Dan Hall's. It looks & smells like a machine shop should. The folks there have dirt under their finger nails.

Don't forget, YOU are responsible for cleaning out the oil passages in your crank after grind/polish. Clean till you're cross-eyed, then do it summore.

They told me that they would clean it, but I plan on re-cleaning it when I get it, and I also plan on cleaning every single part immediately before it goes in my engine.

I'm still working on cleaning the case... it looks clean, it's nice and shiny, but it doesn't feel clean.
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J P Stein
post Jan 7 2009, 06:02 PM
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QUOTE(Todd Enlund @ Jan 7 2009, 09:19 AM) *

QUOTE(J P Stein @ Jan 7 2009, 09:09 AM) *

I like Dan Hall's. It looks & smells like a machine shop should. The folks there have dirt under their finger nails.

Don't forget, YOU are responsible for cleaning out the oil passages in your crank after grind/polish. Clean till you're cross-eyed, then do it summore.

They told me that they would clean it, but I plan on re-cleaning it when I get it, and I also plan on cleaning every single part immediately before it goes in my engine.

I'm still working on cleaning the case... it looks clean, it's nice and shiny, but it doesn't feel clean.


They never said anything about cleaning out any of the cranks I took there.....and they were definately not clean. I spent hours squirting clean solvent ...pipe cleaners, Q tips....whut ever... thru the suckers till they ran free of shittage.
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Todd Enlund
post Jan 12 2009, 09:54 PM
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QUOTE(J P Stein @ Jan 7 2009, 04:02 PM) *

QUOTE(Todd Enlund @ Jan 7 2009, 09:19 AM) *

QUOTE(J P Stein @ Jan 7 2009, 09:09 AM) *

I like Dan Hall's. It looks & smells like a machine shop should. The folks there have dirt under their finger nails.

Don't forget, YOU are responsible for cleaning out the oil passages in your crank after grind/polish. Clean till you're cross-eyed, then do it summore.

They told me that they would clean it, but I plan on re-cleaning it when I get it, and I also plan on cleaning every single part immediately before it goes in my engine.

I'm still working on cleaning the case... it looks clean, it's nice and shiny, but it doesn't feel clean.


They never said anything about cleaning out any of the cranks I took there.....and they were definately not clean. I spent hours squirting clean solvent ...pipe cleaners, Q tips....whut ever... thru the suckers till they ran free of shittage.

Thanks for the heads up. I'll be sure to pay attention...
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Todd Enlund
post Jan 12 2009, 10:00 PM
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I drew my first bead with the new MIG. 18 ga sheet, Lincoln .025 wire on a Miller 140 set to "Autoset". First few attempts something seemed not quite right. Then, I noticed the gas gauge was going to 0 when I pulled the trigger. I cranked the tank up to 30 CFH, and got the bead that I circled in red. I could not be more thrilled... it looks exactly the same on the back side. Obviously, I'll need a bit more practice, especially in finishing a bead, but WOOHOO! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)

Attached Image
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watsonrx13
post Jan 13 2009, 06:40 AM
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Todd, weld looks good.... Just remember, to get really good welds you need the following:

1. good lighting, you need to see what you're welding
2. good ground, get as close to the weld area and remove all paint until you get to bare metal
3. take your time, the metal on these cars are very thin and it's easy to burn through

-- Rob
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Todd Enlund
post Jan 13 2009, 11:33 AM
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QUOTE(watsonrx13 @ Jan 13 2009, 04:40 AM) *

Todd, weld looks good.... Just remember, to get really good welds you need the following:

1. good lighting, you need to see what you're welding
2. good ground, get as close to the weld area and remove all paint until you get to bare metal
3. take your time, the metal on these cars are very thin and it's easy to burn through

-- Rob

Thanks for the advice. I bought a sheet of 18 ga to practice on so that I'd get used to the thin metal. I have a Harbor Freight auto dark hood that worked pretty good. I'll throw some more light on the work next time to see if I can see any better, but this still beats crap out of stick welding with a flip down hood.
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Spoke
post Jan 13 2009, 12:02 PM
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My brother in law welds for a living on the railroad. When he was coaching me on welding and I mentioned that I couldn't see the bead, he suggested I wear my reading glasses for welding. Duh. What a difference the reading glasses made.
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Todd Enlund
post Jan 13 2009, 12:08 PM
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I could see the bead okay, but seeing where I was going was a bit iffy. Next time for practice, I am going to cut two pieces and try to follow the seam.

From looking at my initial attempt, I feel like I need to move a little faster, and I burned through at the end of the bead.
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strawman
post Jan 13 2009, 06:10 PM
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QUOTE(Todd Enlund @ Jan 13 2009, 10:08 AM) *

I could see the bead okay, but seeing where I was going was a bit iffy. Next time for practice, I am going to cut two pieces and try to follow the seam.

From looking at my initial attempt, I feel like I need to move a little faster, and I burned through at the end of the bead.



Be sure to get way down low and bring the bead toward you so that you can see what going on... sometimes the MIG gun or something else blocks your view when welding on the car, but practice/practice/practice beforehand will give you a better feel for hand speed, angle of the gun, motion of the gun (straight, half-moons, etc.), distance of the gun from the metal, etc. Soap pencils parallel to the weld area can also help when you're welding in an area with low-light.

Have fun! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)

Geoff
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J P Stein
post Jan 13 2009, 06:28 PM
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Anybody can run MIG in the flat particularly downhand like your doing. Verticle & overhead seperates the men form the boys (I'm a teenager (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) ). Down hand flat/verticle is OK for sheet metal, but thicker materials need up hand for penetration. Overhead sheet metal....what ever you gotta do to keep from lighting yourself on fire. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)
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RAB914
post Jan 13 2009, 06:40 PM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/thin-metal.htm (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)
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Todd Enlund
post Jan 14 2009, 05:48 PM
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Got a call from Dan Hall's today. Crank is broke. Fuch. So much for the 2258.

Now I need to make a decision between a 2056 and a 2270. I have two more 2.0 cranks. Time to crunch a bunch of numbers.
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