Polygraphite rear bushings?, How good are these? Options

['73-914kid]

Okay guys.....I'm letting the motor bit set, so I'm on to suspesnion (something I can actually work on right now) and I need a new set of trailing arm bushings.
I was looking into the Weltmeister Polygraphite bushings because they were a decent price.

Anyone have other opinions on these bushings or other ones for below $80? I would love poly-bronze bushings but $260 from pelicanis just a little steep (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

[Dave_Darling]

They stick, they squeak, and they're a bit of a pain to install correctly. (Just ask JP!) The price is kinda nice, though!

The sticking can be fixed if you install them carefully enough, I think. You can cut a channel and add a Zerk fitting so you can re-grease them periodically so they don't squeak.

--DD

[r_towle]

Okay guys.....I'm letting the motor bit set, so I'm on to suspesnion (something I can actually work on right now) and I need a new set of trailing arm bushings.
I was looking into the Weltmeister Polygraphite bushings because they were a decent price.

Anyone have other opinions on these bushings or other ones for below $80? I would love poly-bronze bushings but $260 from pelicanis just a little steep (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif)

What is the long term purpose of the car?
Given the difficulty of installing any rear trailing arm bushings, dont take the choice lightly.

The plastic bushings wont last and will squeek. they oval out in a year or less, so you are doing it again...
In the long run factoring in time and aggravation, replacement, reworking etc...you will end up throwing out the plastic bushings fairly soon after you install them...

If its a street car, keep the rubber, its better and more supple.
If its autox or race go with the Bronze from Elephant racing or the linear bearings from Shine Racing.

Rich

[J P Stein]

Yes, Dave, they ain't worth shit, however......
If your bucks down and your rubber bushings have disintegrated......they will dufernow, like Rich said, maybe a year of squeaking....I had no such excuse. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

Go with Elephant iff'n you can swing it.
Shine/Tarett needles if you want the best....not cheep.....but I'm not too sure of those for longevity on the street.

[jimkelly]

is bronze $260 per side with axle - or $260 for both sides with 2 axles?

jim

[Lou W]

is bronze $260 per side with axle - or $260 for both sides with 2 axles?

jim

Both sides of the rear.....I installed them and I think they are the way to go. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[Eric_Shea]

Here's my take on the level of quality on the rear bushings:

1. FreeMotion (bearings) -or- Elephant Bronze (it's hard to pick).
2. The harder 70D poly bushing.
3. I don't even recommend the softer poly bushings you're looking at for all the reasons that Rich mentions.

The more expensive ones (Elephant/FreeMotion) will hopefully last a life time and as mentioned, this isn't a job you want to do every couple of years. I'm using FreeMotion on my 914 and Elephants on my 911.

I used the soft poly bushings on my 911 years back and they distorted and squeaked. As mentioned, I replaced them soon after I got them (well... a couple years but, that's too soon to be doing this job again). I've even seen them take out front suspension pickup points on a 911.

The harder Poly bushings do not exhibit the same wear characteristics of the softer poly (meaning, they'll last a long time... if properly taken care of, probably as long as the stock ones did), they won't squeak and give virtually the same characteristics as the solid bushings.

With the harder poly bushings you will need to prep them properly to get them to operate noise free. They need to be honed to a perfect fit on your arm otherwise they can bind and clack or, if they're too loose they can do the same. Here's what I like to use now:

http://www.mcmaster.com

Item #4719A261 Sleeve
Item #4650A68 Drum

With this is a lower speed drill press you can virtually guarantee a perfect fit on your control arm shaft. It only takes a few minutes with this set up and it's very precise.

Once the bushings slide freely on the shaft (while cool) you can install them and put zerk fittings on the arm to keep them lubed.

At $20.00 a set, I find them an excellent bushing if your budget is such.

[Eric_Shea]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png) BTW

['73-914kid]

The car is going to be a daily driver for the street. The rubber bushings have pretty much disintigrated and cracked pretty bad.

Where could I find new rubber bushings? All I can find are polyeurathane........

[Joe Ricard]

not going to find new rubber. unless you buy a whole new trailing arm.

Get the poly and install a grease fitting it will last at least a year.

I did something similair to the McMaster carr pieces. I used steel bushings with grease clearance of .002 and of coourse a zerk.

No stick, no bind, no play. Lots of noise from the road.

[Eric_Shea]

not going to find new rubber. unless you buy a whole new trailing arm.

Elephant Racing does rubber now. If you don't like the price of their poly-bronze you won't like the rubber.

http://www.elephantracing.com/suspension/r...berbushings.htm

They are the only ones I know of doing it for the 914 right now.

Get the poly and install a grease fitting it will last at least a year.

The harder poly will probably last a lifetime. They are extremely hard at 70D (rated at 9000lbs). There is no flex, no stick or bind when honed properly so it would be more like Joes metal bushings. I've done dozens now and they slide up and down in the mounts with one finger ease.

http://www.pmbperformance.com/catalog/item...565/5297602.htm

Standard 94A polys flex a lot, you can squeeze them with your hand. Those are the ones that will last a year or two.

[Eric_Shea]

Lou,

I think your outside zerks are on 180 degrees off on the tube. They'll probably interfere with the outer control arm mounts. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

[wbergtho]

The sticking can be fixed if you install them carefully enough, I think. You can cut a channel and add a Zerk fitting so you can re-grease them periodically so they don't squeak.

This is what I did and haven't had a problem in over 5 years.

[Gint]

not going to find new rubber. unless you buy a whole new trailing arm.

Elephant Racing does rubber now. If you don't like the price of their poly-bronze you won't like the rubber.

http://www.elephantracing.com/suspension/r...berbushings.htm

They are the only ones I know of doing it for the 914 right now.

That price isn't bad actually. IMO anyway...

[Eric_Shea]

That price isn't bad actually. IMO anyway...

Agree... if you want the ultimate restoration deal it's a great way to get new rubber. In speaking with Chuck I believe they have the arms powdercoated as well.

I was just going off this comment.

I would love poly-bronze bushings but $260 from pelicanis just a little steep

[r_towle]

not going to find new rubber. unless you buy a whole new trailing arm.

Elephant Racing does rubber now. If you don't like the price of their poly-bronze you won't like the rubber.

http://www.elephantracing.com/suspension/r...berbushings.htm

They are the only ones I know of doing it for the 914 right now.

That price isn't bad actually. IMO anyway...

That price is pretty decent.
Did I miss a DIY price for the rear trailing arms???

RIch

[ConeDodger]

Lou,

I think your outside zerks are on 180 degrees off on the tube. They'll probably interfere with the outer control arm mounts. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

I agree... I just did this and it looks like your outer one will be buried inside the mount when installed while your inner will be pointing up into the body when the suspension is free hanging and impossible to service. I suppose you could drop them to service them each time... I wouldn't but it could be done.

[Lou W]

Lou,

I think your outside zerks are on 180 degrees off on the tube. They'll probably interfere with the outer control arm mounts. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

Yup, Eric and Rob you're both right, I fixed them before I installed them. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[ConeDodger]

Lou,

I think your outside zerks are on 180 degrees off on the tube. They'll probably interfere with the outer control arm mounts. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

Yup, Eric and Rob you're both right, I fixed them before I installed them. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

I would have done the same thing but our Car Of The Month boy Paul Sayegh warned me to mock install them and mark them... Otherwise I would have picked the same spot, in fact I had Sharpie marker in the same spots (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[Lou W]

Lou,

I think your outside zerks are on 180 degrees off on the tube. They'll probably interfere with the outer control arm mounts. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

Yup, Eric and Rob you're both right, I fixed them before I installed them. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

I would have done the same thing but our Car Of The Month boy Paul Sayegh warned me to mock install them and mark them... Otherwise I would have picked the same spot, in fact I had Sharpie marker in the same spots (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

I didn't think the instructions were very clear, then I had a tough time trying to find someone who had a replacement zirc fitting, mine broke off when I mounted one of them. Elephant Racing guys were very helpful in rushing me out a replacement.