Ignition switch problem |
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Ignition switch problem |
watsonrx13 |
Nov 21 2008, 05:48 PM
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#21
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,734 Joined: 18-February 03 From: Plant City, FL Member No.: 312 Region Association: South East States |
The large red wire on lug #12 goes to the fresh air relay, the two red wires on lug#11 one goes to the battery the other to the horn relay. the one on lug #10 goes to light switch. Also lugs #10,11,12 are strap toghter. Thanks.... now where is the fresh air relay and the horn relay? -- Rob |
zonedoubt |
Nov 22 2008, 06:28 PM
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#22
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Canadian Member Group: Members Posts: 668 Joined: 14-May 03 From: Vancouver, BC Member No.: 696 Region Association: Canada |
The large red wire on lug #12 goes to the fresh air relay, the two red wires on lug#11 one goes to the battery the other to the horn relay. the one on lug #10 goes to light switch. Also lugs #10,11,12 are strap toghter. Thanks.... now where is the fresh air relay and the horn relay? -- Rob Those are on the interior fuse panel. Check Haynes p. 128 or factory manual. |
zonedoubt |
Nov 22 2008, 06:31 PM
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#23
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Canadian Member Group: Members Posts: 668 Joined: 14-May 03 From: Vancouver, BC Member No.: 696 Region Association: Canada |
I had some intermittent starting issues that were fixed by bypassing the seat belt warning system. There's a how-to on this board somewhere.
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watsonrx13 |
Nov 22 2008, 07:00 PM
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#24
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,734 Joined: 18-February 03 From: Plant City, FL Member No.: 312 Region Association: South East States |
Well, I finally found the problem with no power to the fuse panel. The DAPO cut ALL of the red wires from the battery, then spliced them back together. I don't understand why, but the splice was hidden by black electrical tape and the wiring loom was underneath the FI box. Here's a shot of the splices....
After I found and fixed this problem, all of my other electrical problems were fixed, except the driver's front blinkers. I checked power to the blinker and the running light's wires, but the light wouldn't lite up. I replaced the blinker housing and everything worked correctly. Thanks again to everyone. -- Rob |
Spoke |
Nov 23 2008, 09:58 AM
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#25
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Jerry Group: Members Posts: 6,984 Joined: 29-October 04 From: Allentown, PA Member No.: 3,031 Region Association: None |
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Are your other connections there are ok? Hopefully you've checked them all. I don't trust wire splices w/o solder and crimp connectors. Secure wire connections and splices are foundations of reliable electrical systems. For splices I always twist the wires together and solder. Electrical tape or shrink wrap and that connection will never need maintenance. Crimps make good connections on day one then go downhill after that. They can loosen up if the wires are moved or vibrated. Twisted spices w/o solder can un-twist and make intermittent contacts. Both types can cause strange behavior of the electrics. |
watsonrx13 |
Nov 23 2008, 03:30 PM
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#26
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 2,734 Joined: 18-February 03 From: Plant City, FL Member No.: 312 Region Association: South East States |
Spoke, I did check all of the connections and they appeared very secure. Also, I've taped the red wire on the outside and didn't try to 'hide' it, it makes it more convient to check and test in the future.
As the other knowledgable and experienced members have mentioned, these electrical problems are managable and correctable, you just have to be willing to listen to the recommendations and spend the time tracing the wires. For any of the newbies, you need to know where the power is coming from and trace it throughout wiring diagram. Once you know the starting point, it's pretty straight foward. -- Rob |
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