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> 914 Rear Caliper Adjustment Procedure
914werke
post Apr 27 2009, 12:47 AM
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Uh (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) what if you find that turning your inner adjusters (w/gear in place)
provides no effect IE does not move the inner pad closer to the disc?
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sixnotfour
post Apr 27 2009, 01:03 AM
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Seriously you guys didnt get the inners adjusted ?
one or both ?
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914werke
post Apr 27 2009, 01:18 PM
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yup..brand new calipers. No workie on BOTH inside adjusters & yes it has adjustment gearz installed on both sides (now).
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Eric_Shea
post Dec 14 2015, 02:29 PM
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Sorry Rich, only 6 years late on a reply but, I was looking for this for another customer and just saw this.

If we look at the first picture in this thread:

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-1110-1228603821.jpg)

...you can see the basic relationship of what's in the "inboard" 1/2 of the caliper. When you spin the adjuster and nothing happens, this means the adjuster shaft is spun up "tight" inside the mechanism in the piston. When it is too tight, it's like a frozen fastener. In turning it, you will be turning the entire mechanism inside the piston shell. This happens if they've sat for a while. If the mechanism inside the shell is spinning, no adjusting will occur.

To remedy this, you'll need to overcome the lock by spinning the adjuster gear in a "clockwise" direction at very high speeds with little or no ramp up. This means an air wrench. By turning the gear clockwise, you will turn the adjuster counter-clockwise and with a few short bursts, the velocity and inertia of the adjuster should overcome the mass of the piston and mechanism and release itself.

I know we're 6 years late but, hopefully that will help others. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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tomrev
post Dec 14 2015, 03:37 PM
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I have to smile; in desperation, I used the same vice grip special, after scratching my head wondering how else to do it, back when I first had to do this. Necessity is a mother...
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SKL1
post Dec 15 2015, 02:01 PM
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Great right-up Eric. And good timing.

Even though I did adjust them after putting your new rear calipers on my '73, I'm going to check clearance again as I'm still having a hell of a time getting a firm pedal after NUMEROUS bleeding procedures.

Everything is basically new or rebuilt including your 19mm MC, and cleaned rear "proportioning valve" or whatever the correct name is. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Wonder if some of the horrible spongy brake is too much rear clearance. This is my next project!
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MartyYeoman
post Apr 28 2016, 04:49 PM
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QUOTE(Eric_Shea @ Dec 14 2015, 01:29 PM) *


To remedy this, you'll need to overcome the lock by spinning the adjuster gear in a "clockwise" direction at very high speeds with little or no ramp up. This means an air wrench. By turning the gear clockwise, you will turn the adjuster counter-clockwise and with a few short bursts, the velocity and inertia of the adjuster should overcome the mass of the piston and mechanism and release itself.


OK, Now, what's the technique for getting an outer adjuster unfrozen? Same idea except in a counterclockwise direction? I'm currently in a "need to know" situation.
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Amphicar770
post May 17 2016, 08:18 PM
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The how to restore / modify 914 book mentions removing the pin retainer before adjusting. Is that necessary? Thx.
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Eric_Shea
post May 17 2016, 09:07 PM
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I like to leave them in. We're talking about the pad springs. The reason being; that's the way the car will be run. I tend not to use feeler gauges for the .004" though. It may be easier to use the feeler gauges if you remove the springs. I run a full rotation while adjusting the outer and the inner separately. I back the adjusters off just enough so there's no rubbing.
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Amphicar770
post May 19 2016, 09:13 PM
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Hi Eric,

So, tonight I went to adjust the rears on the rebuilt calipers I received from you.

Both sides are missing the gear mechanism? Is this something I should have removed from the cores before returning them?

Thx.

Mike
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Eric_Shea
post May 20 2016, 08:32 AM
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Yes. Do you need a pair?

Attached File  Caliper_Installation.pdf ( 41.66k ) Number of downloads: 572
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Amphicar770
post May 20 2016, 08:53 AM
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QUOTE(Eric_Shea @ May 20 2016, 10:32 AM) *

Yes. Do you need a pair?

Attached File  Caliper_Installation.pdf ( 41.66k ) Number of downloads: 572



My bad. Next time I should actually read the instructions. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/chair.gif)

Yes, I suppose I do need those. If you have, please PM me as to how I can get them from you.

Thanks
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Fatboy007
post May 23 2018, 09:04 AM
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Fantastic article thank you for the help!
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jfort
post Oct 2 2018, 08:57 AM
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Dumb question probably. I need to adjust the hand brake. It's a factory six and as far as I know, it has the original calipers, beautifully restored by Eric a couple of years ago. Are they the same, and the procedure the same, as this DYI?
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mepstein
post Oct 2 2018, 09:20 AM
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QUOTE(jfort @ Oct 2 2018, 10:57 AM) *

Dumb question probably. I need to adjust the hand brake. It's a factory six and as far as I know, it has the original calipers, beautifully restored by Eric a couple of years ago. Are they the same, and the procedure the same, as this DYI?

yes. exactly the same.
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jfort
post Oct 2 2018, 09:44 AM
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thanks, mepstein, for the quick reply. as the restored calipers were installed in 2015, I am hoping for no frozen parts and a quick/easy adjustment
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mepstein
post Oct 2 2018, 10:59 AM
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QUOTE(jfort @ Oct 2 2018, 11:44 AM) *

thanks, mepstein, for the quick reply. as the restored calipers were installed in 2015, I am hoping for no frozen parts and a quick/easy adjustment

I'm 99% sure that all the ebrake hardware is the same as the 914-4 parts. Only the caliper castings, pistons and some seals are different. Maybe the bolts that hold the caliper halves are different but I'm not sure.
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914werke
post Nov 6 2020, 08:57 PM
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@Eric_Shea So every few yrs its seems I have to revisit this thread (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
Lets try this scenario:
Install new R. brakes new pads & set venting clearance.
Drive the car over a period of a .5 yr and at that interval need to adjust calipers due to wear (about .5 gone).
Go through process as described prior & continue driving.
Another 6 months of driving passes & its time for service including replacement of rear pads.
By this time the caliper pistons are extended well out of their bores.
Logically by reversing the direction of the adjuster's I should be able to retract the pistons into the calipers bores so I can fit the new pads with their increased/ original thickness
BUT instead the calipers DONT WANT TO RETURN?
Testing the adjuster action in the opposite direction seems to operate as intended (pushing OUT the piston further)
What am I missing?
Should not this process work for both inner & outer adjusters?
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mepstein
post Nov 6 2020, 09:56 PM
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I think you will have to manually push in the pistons as you screw in the adjuster.
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Eric_Shea
post Nov 7 2020, 07:54 AM
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Pressure may be needed to retract extended pistons when installing new pads. We always apply thumb pressure upon assembly when pulling pistons into the bore.
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