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> A 914-6GT Build Thread, Bringing #673 back from the Grave
burton73
post Jan 3 2009, 12:33 PM
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T.C.

Are you going to put GT stiffing kit on the rear?

Bob
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carr914
post Jan 3 2009, 01:14 PM
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Only doing an Engman Kit

T.C.
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burton73
post Jan 3 2009, 05:45 PM
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T.C.

#41 was running the 2.5 SS for 30,000 miles with 7 inch BBS with Michelins. Some where in there these stress cracks appeared. There is no rust on this car in any place in the rear of this car or longs. I believe that there is a lot of stress put on this area of the car as the underside of transmission is bolted there in the center. It is like the step of a ladder. This is one of the main points of the GT kit and that is why I am putting Rick J's kit in.


With the wider wheels like I will be running and the bigger HP it is something to consider.

Bob
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carr914
post Jan 3 2009, 06:55 PM
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I'm not sure of the exact area of the shot since it is a close-up. But that is at a seam which the kits don't cover, which I think put more stress on the seams.

Also the plan for this car is a restore 914-6 GT that I probably won't drive much, in that I have another more Hot-Rod 914-6 Conversion. Yes the Real Six (673) will get a good high HP motor, but it will not get stressed the way I have other cars.

Also if need be I have the templates for the stiffening kit that I could make in the future and add if need be

T.C.
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burton73
post Jan 5 2009, 05:57 PM
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T.C.,

I just wanted to point out that I believe the kit strengthen this part. You see the place where the jack goes so you now should know where this is. Sorry to make every one guess where it was in the car. I am more intimate with every part of my car as I am so close to it. Now that I have 1/3 of my GT kit in my welding is getting much better. This will mean less grinding for me.

Bob
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sixnotfour
post Jan 5 2009, 06:18 PM
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right side up


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carr914
post Jan 5 2009, 06:37 PM
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My newest addition. Bought off eBay, Original - Not a Reprint $55

T.C.

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carr914
post Jan 7 2009, 02:36 PM
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Another new addition. Thanks Lavanaut

T.C.

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FourBlades
post Jan 7 2009, 04:29 PM
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Send that manual back, the bottom left corner is bent!!!

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

John
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carr914
post Jan 7 2009, 07:16 PM
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FedEx just got here at 8pm with a package from Pelican - new rear trunk seal and a 930 Rubber shift boot like the one on my RennShifter as I'm in the process of making a custom center console for my other 914-6

T.C.

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carr914
post Jan 26 2009, 06:13 PM
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A few more pieces.

a 3.2 Oil Pump and the Electromotive Crankfire Trigger Wheel. When I bought my Electromotive, it was missing the trigger wheel. A friend had the wheel, the oil pump and a set of $2,000 cams that I picked up for a song.

My 1st motor should be ready by the time #673 is painted.

T.C.

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SirAndy
post Jan 26 2009, 06:20 PM
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QUOTE(burton73 @ Jan 5 2009, 03:57 PM) *

I just wanted to point out that I believe the kit strengthen this part.


I don't think so. This part is a double-wall and the GT piece is on the other side of that double-wall. There's 1/4" of air between the spot-welds inside the trunk and the GT "reinforcement" on the other side.


What people don't realize, the GT chassis kit was a complete shot in the dark by Porsche. They added a few patches where they thought they might add some strength. They were under tremendous time pressure to get those cars ready for the track, this wasn't a well thought out and engineered product.

I'm sure there's quite a few people today who could come up with better solutions ...
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/stirthepot.gif) Andy
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FourBlades
post Jan 26 2009, 08:00 PM
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T.C.: What kind of cams cost $2000?

Were they used by Angelina Jolie as a sex toy? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)

John
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carr914
post Jan 26 2009, 10:02 PM
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The cams are Elgin 310/296 grind for a 2.8 race motor. This motor will be a twin-plug, Factory P&Cs, Carillo rods, Weber 46's, built on a sand-cast aluminum case. I think it will be at least 300hp.

My other motor that will be done 1st will be a 2.7, Single-plug, RS P&Cs, aggresive cams (don't have the specs handy), balanced factory rods, Weber 40's on a magnesium 7R case that has already been machined, shuffle-pinned etc. I expect this one will be 250 hp. Both motors will be Dyno'd

I base the projected HP numbers on the last motor I had built, which was a 2.5 Twin-Plug.

T.C.

here is the 2.5 on the Dyno

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dlestep
post Jan 26 2009, 11:03 PM
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QUOTE(SirAndy @ Jan 26 2009, 07:20 PM) *

QUOTE(burton73 @ Jan 5 2009, 03:57 PM) *

I just wanted to point out that I believe the kit strengthen this part.


I don't think so. This part is a double-wall and the GT piece is on the other side of that double-wall. There's 1/4" of air between the spot-welds inside the trunk and the GT "reinforcement" on the other side.


What people don't realize, the GT chassis kit was a complete shot in the dark by Porsche. They added a few patches where they thought they might add some strength. They were under tremendous time pressure to get those cars ready for the track, this wasn't a well thought out and engineered product.

I'm sure there's quite a few people today who could come up with better solutions ...
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/stirthepot.gif) Andy


...I agree with SirAndy...I have been researching the web and looking through historical books for placement and attachment of the stiffening plates.
This is what I have found.
CONUS - most of the people that have added their stiffening plates have actually applied them to the outside vertical wall of the boxed section only and have not carried the additional metal over the seam. This is focusing more stress to the spot welds along the seam. The 90 degree sections just above the seam would act like "live" hinges under extreme stress. The stiffening plates end at least 6 to 9 inches forward of the trans-axle cross member. I would seam weld all that is shown in your picture on both sides.
Europe - Porsche welders were not known to produce beautiful welds. Most of them were pretty uguly in fact. But note the wrapping of the metal over the seam in the attached photos. This wrap ties the two 90 degree bends with the seam and is much more stronger than just laminating the vertical wall.
Dave

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Lavanaut
post Jan 27 2009, 12:52 AM
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QUOTE(carr914 @ Jan 7 2009, 12:36 PM) *

Another new addition. Thanks Lavanaut

Happy to contribute a part to the cause, since you did to mine as well. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

QUOTE(carr914 @ Jan 7 2009, 05:16 PM) *

FedEx just got here at 8pm with a package from Pelican - new rear trunk seal and a 930 Rubber shift boot like the one on my RennShifter as I'm in the process of making a custom center console for my other 914-6

If you think of it, please let me know how that trunk seal install goes TC, I've got one to do myself.

Reid
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carr914
post Feb 1 2009, 12:25 PM
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Not as much progress as I would like, but the 2 guys in the shop have been sick lately.

Thanks to bcheney for stopping by the shop to take these pictures for me.

T.C.

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carr914
post Feb 1 2009, 12:28 PM
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The passenger rear fender is back on after all the repairs were done underneath.

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carr914
post Feb 1 2009, 12:29 PM
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The floor is next.

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sixnotfour
post Feb 1 2009, 05:28 PM
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Looks great ,fender on (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) I'd loose th ducktail though. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)
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