tap sizes, compression fittings Options

[Randal]

This is somewhat racing related (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif)

I bought a new air pump for my old compressor but have to build a new manifold and re-plumb my air connections.

Need some help.

I'm using two lines, one is 1/2 steel and the other 1/4 copper. I'm using compression fittings on both.

What tap size do I use on the 1/2" compression fitting to tap into my new manifold? On one side the compression fitting will be connected to the 1/2" pipe, the other side (minus the compression fitting) will be threaded into my new manifold. Both sides of the compression fitting are the same.

Likewise for the 1/4" compression fitting, i.e., what tap size?

Thanks.

[J P Stein]

Augghhh..... I hate this. I usually end up rumaging thru fittings at multiple FLAPS for a couple hours.

I think I understand what you are trying to do (I've been wrong before). Most compression fittings can be bought with a pipe tap on one end....an adaptor. So, all you would need is 1/4 & 1/2 pipe taps with appropiate drill sizes.
See if you cans find the fittings FIRST. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[Randal]

Augghhh..... I hate this. I usually end up rumaging thru fittings at multiple FLAPS for a couple hours.

I think I understand what you are trying to do (I've been wrong before). Most compression fittings can be bought with a pipe tap on one end....an adaptor. So, all you would need is 1/4 & 1/2 pipe taps with appropiate drill sizes.
See if you cans find the fittings FIRST. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

So is there some designation for pipe taps, like "AN?"

Here are a few of the choices at McMaster Carr?

Acme
BSPP
BSPT
Metric
NC
NEF
NF
NPS
NPSF
NPT
NPTF
NS
N/UN

And how do I tell which one works for this particular compression fitting.... nothing on the package. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

[J P Stein]

Ohjeeze.....plumbing 101

NPT= National Pipe Thread.

Go to you hardware store. True Values are good for this.Grab a short piece of 1/2 in & 1/4 in threaded pipe.
Find a reducer that fits each end......there's your check fixture, buy the reducer.
Go to the tap section. Find a tap that fits each end.....buy those. Marked on the tap package will be a drill size for the hole to be tapped.....buy those.

Go to a FLAPS. Find your required compression fitting that fits both ends of your check fixture *(your hardware store may have them)*. Take the check fixture back for a refund, ya cheepsumbitch.

You're in biddness. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[Randal]

Ohjeeze.....plumbing 101

NPT= National Pipe Thread.

Go to you hardware store. True Values are good for this.Grab a short piece of 1/2 in & 1/4 in threaded pipe.
Find a reducer that fits each end......there's your check fixture, buy the reducer.
Go to the tap section. Find a tap that fits each end.....buy those. Marked on the tap package will be a drill size for the hole to be tapped.....buy those.

Go to a FLAPS. Find your required compression fitting that fits both ends of your check fixture *(your hardware store may have them)*. Take the check fixture back for a refund, ya cheepsumbitch.

You're in biddness. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

It is pretty amazing what you can put together in the plumbing section of Orchard Supply.

I'll post a picture when I find my camera charger.

Thanks for the advice JP.

[Randal]

Another picture.

Simple enough once you figure it out.

[Randal]

Another picture.

Simple enough once you figure it out, with the help of guys like JP. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[J P Stein]

It's easy when you have an idea what you want to do AND know of a good hardware store. Looks like you had both covered.

[Randal]

Another picture.

Simple enough once you figure it out, with the help of guys like JP. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

And it actually worked after I installed a new pulley, belt and switch. Lots of adjustments and tinkering of course, but pressure gets right up to 110 and stops. Nice to have air back again.

[Randal]

Another picture.

Simple enough once you figure it out, with the help of guys like JP. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

And it actually worked after I installed a new pulley, belt and switch. Lots of adjustments and tinkering of course, but pressure gets right up to 110 and stops. Nice to have air back again.

One further data point for all you want to be good mechanics like me.

I was a Trekkor's favorite place yesterday, i.e., Home Depot. They had a bunch of larger compressors on sale and I was surprised to see that they used the same 1/2" brass tubing that I did running from the air pump to the tank.

I was thinking that I would have to change to a steel pipe, but maybe the brass will be OK.

I actually like the look of the brass after I found a proper bending spring unit to bent it without kinks.

[jd74914]

Copper is extensively used in applications like that. As long as it isn't in wetted with DI water (which is nasty corrosive stuff) it's not a bad deal. You might loose a bit because of the wet nature of your compressed gas, but not enough to hurt anything. Unless you go to 316 stainless, steel isn't a good choice because of its propensity to rust. Interestingly, alot of places are switching to stainless process gas piping now because brass and copper is geting so expensive.

Looks good.

BTW: If I understood the question correctly, you can get fittings from Swagelok (the best) or cheaper ones from McMaster (they call them YurLok or something like that IIRC) and avoid having to use pipe nipples and things like that. They are a bit more expensive but are a very clean solution.

[J P Stein]

All well & good, but how bout some pics of the car, Randal.....progress, damnit.
Keep this up & I'll have to post pics of my trailer rebuild or valve adjustment. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
I haven't got into the trans yet.......

[Randal]

All well & good, but how bout some pics of the car, Randal.....progress, damnit.
Keep this up & I'll have to post pics of my trailer rebuild or valve adjustment. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
I haven't got into the trans yet.......

Hopefully next week JP.

I'm waiting to hear from Len Hoffman on the status of the heads - but knowing Len he will be contacting me shortly.

Hoffman is a real solid guy, nice to work with.

BTW did you think about adding one of those truck air deflectors on the front of your trailer. I saw one done this way up at Hoopa and it was a cool set up. The owner said it help the gas mileage.

You can typically get the old deflectors from truck salvage yards. Pretty cheap, like $150.

[J P Stein]

The car/trailer snuggles up pretty well behind my truck. I have a winch to load/unload the car and such a gizmo would prolly just get in the way. If I didn't have the canopy it might be worth the hassle. My truck is gonna get crappy milage....unless the hand of God pushes.

[J P Stein]

New Improved trailer decking. I'll have to work on the valve adjustment pics. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[0396]

The car/trailer snuggles up pretty well behind my truck. I have a winch to load/unload the car and such a gizmo would prolly just get in the way. If I didn't have the canopy it might be worth the hassle. My truck is gonna get crappy milage....unless the hand of God pushes.

Question,

why did you 'tie' the rears straight back- instead of an x

[J P Stein]

The car/trailer snuggles up pretty well behind my truck. I have a winch to load/unload the car and such a gizmo would prolly just get in the way. If I didn't have the canopy it might be worth the hassle. My truck is gonna get crappy milage....unless the hand of God pushes.

Question,

why did you 'tie' the rears straight back- instead of an x

It's actually a one strap V....attached to each wheel and center point on the trailer then pulled up snug with the racheting straps (which angle inward) & the winch. With the winch cable pulled up snug to the wheel chocks there is NO fore & aft movement. I've also tried it with the winch cable detached & was able to feel the car move around while towing......didn't like that.

Last year we prolly towed it 3500 miles. I really don't like the single axle trailer but make the effort to keep the bearings & tires in top notch shape.....and carry a spare..... hay, it was cheep.

[Randal]

New Improved trailer decking. I'll have to work on the valve adjustment pics. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Nice work on the trailer JP.

If a guy was looking to buy a trailer there are some good ones out there.

Like this one if you didn't want to spend $10,000 for a light one:

http://redding.craigslist.org/cto/984570598.html

I love removable fenders; wish I had them.

[Randal]

I also like this one and it's cheap, but would have to be sand blasted and re-done:.

http://eugene.craigslist.org/cto/985015885.html

Interesting design.

Here is a good buy: http://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/cto/987681198.html

[J P Stein]

IIRC, I paid 800 for mine bout 6-7 years back.