Easy 5-Lug Conversion - 911 Running Gear, For High Power Applications... Options

[naro914]

My exact C&P email conversation with Eric Anders at Sway-a-Way

Axle orientation

3 messages

Mark H <***@gmail.com> Mon, Jan 20, 2014 at 9:19 AM
To: tech@swayaway.com

One quick question I have is are the axles directional?
I have part number 2420 that I bought direct from you last summer, they are new. I notice that the one axle is marked "L" and the other one "R", both are only marked on one end. I've heard they take a twist.

I know left and right... I'm guessing left outside and right outside?

Thanks
--
Cheers Mark
===============================================

Eric Andres <eric@swayaway.com> Mon, Jan 20, 2014 at 2:05 PM
To: Mark H <***@gmail.com>

The part number and stamp need to go towards the outside and can only twist in the one direction.

Eric Andres
818.700.9712, ext. 230

Sway-A-Way, Inc.
9667 Owensmouth Ave., Unit 100
Chatsworth, CA 91311
================================================

Mark H <***@gmail.com> Mon, Jan 20, 2014 at 2:12 PM
To: Eric Andres <eric@swayaway.com>
That's what I thought, thanks

That's exactly what he told me too when I replaced my axles with SwayAway - letters on the outside.

[Mark Henry]

Paul in re-reading the exchange, my answers, I see where some confusion may have occurred:

In post #97 is a direct answer to markings on Sway-a-Way axles.

In post #98 it was in regards to a question on casting numbers on a factory transmission output flange.

Does that clear things up?

[tomeric914]

Hmm, this doesn't seem right. Is there a part number for this 5mm spacer?

Also, they reference hub centric which usually refers to a wheel spacer which centers the wheel on the hub.

Also, don't forget the 5mm spacer required for the stub axles. As you know, I prefer the hub centric style.

Do you have later style stub axles? No idea if that's the problem or where the spacer goes. I bought this setup from Eric several years ago and haven't installed it yet.

I'm still wondering if my transmission flanges are the correct ones. I'll have to check and see.

[Mark Henry]

I seem to think there was a spacer, but honestly it was 2 years ago and I could be wrong.

[mepstein]

I think people had the spacers made. I don't believe 69-73 need spacers.

[mgp4591]

I think people had the spacers made. I don't believe 69-73 need spacers.

I've been advised to use an old bearing inner race to make the 5mm spacer to fit my 911SC hubs/flanges to the 914 arms but I have no idea what year they are. My car is a 71 - I can do some measuring and find out though. I've still got a while before I install these so if anyone has some info that would help, I'd appreciate it. This thread has already steered me in the right direction for a 5 lug setup and now I've got everything I need- the upgraded brakes will be a big bonus too! I know, I know... brakes don't stop the car - the tires do. Yeah, I've got bigger ones of those too...

[mepstein]

I mean when you use 69-73 911 parts.

[Justinp71]

Fyi, you can use 911 axles if you use the adapters from Patrick's motorsports along with the axle spacer kit. I have been running them for 5 years or so. The key is to use the cv end caps instead of any gaskets. the stock 914 gaskets kept wanting to crush out.

http://www.patrickmotorsports.com/part/rea...4-transmission/

[mgp4591]

Fyi, you can use 911 axles if you use the adapters from Patrick's motorsports along with the axle spacer kit. I have been running them for 5 years or so. The key is to use the cv end caps instead of any gaskets. the stock 914 gaskets kept wanting to crush out.

http://www.patrickmotorsports.com/part/rea...4-transmission/

Thanks, but I'm using the Subaru trans so I'll have to mix and match....

[tomeric914]

Hmm, the stubs I'm using came from a '71.

I mean when you use 69-73 911 parts.

[Mark Henry]

Fyi, you can use 911 axles if you use the adapters from Patrick's motorsports along with the axle spacer kit. I have been running them for 5 years or so. The key is to use the cv end caps instead of any gaskets. the stock 914 gaskets kept wanting to crush out.

http://www.patrickmotorsports.com/part/rea...4-transmission/

Many of us know that, this whole thread is about the strongest possible 914/901 5 bolt conversion method with no adaptors.

[6freak]

I see frosty balls in the first few pictures ..those are shot , and I would never have rebuilt a CV with them..premature failure is immanent! ...good bearings are mirror shiney

and im not trying to bash anyone ...just the facts

[Mark Henry]

I see frosty balls in the first few pictures ..those are shot , and I would never have rebuilt a CV with them..premature failure is immanent! ...good bearings are mirror shiney

and im not trying to bash anyone ...just the facts

What the fuck are you talking about?....hey wait a minute (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) Keep your comments about my Canadian testicles out of this topic (IMG:style_emoticons/default/stick.gif)

[6freak]

Pardon me the proper term is Etching...around here we always called them frosty

[6freak]

I mentioned it a few years back about the condinsation in bearings and it causing microscopic explosions because you cant compress water...someone asked what i was smoken haha...i dont think they believed me ,but its true

Mike

[Mark Henry]

Did you get it that I was joking about frosted balls? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Maybe you do need some (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smoke.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[6freak]

Did you get it that I was joking about frosted balls? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Maybe you do need some (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smoke.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

I did! and it was funny.... is it still frosty balls cold up there (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif)
and no i dont need to (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smoke.gif) id never get anything done and all the cheetos would be gone in my house and at the corner store.. so anyway in the first couple pictures you can see 4 shiney balls and 2 etched balls that are bad,they`ll work for a short time but wont last long
Mike

[tomeric914]

Hang on a second though, I don't think this is my problem. The 911 hub to stub axle width dimension I measure where it slips into the bearing is 37mm like it should be.

The problem I have is that the 108mm diameter is rubbing on the inside of the 914 control arm. The cause may be my 911 handbrake. I fabbed and welded a bellcrank to the bottom of the control arm. The heat added was just enough to distort the metal and cause the contact. A dremel and a few mini sanding drums and a mirror was all it took to get the clearance needed. The concern now is how much does the hub expand once it all warms up. That just might suck. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

Also, in rebuilding the CV joint boots, the Oetikers that Pelican stocks are roughly 74mm which don't fit the boot plates I have, even when fully crimped. With the boots installed, mine measure about 66.5mm. Apparently, there was a change some time in the early 70's to the larger 74mm. I found 2-3/4" (71mm) Oetikers at MSCDirect and they upgraded my shipping to Next Day UPS. http://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/48549729

The inner boot location measures about 33mm so a 1-3/8" Oetiker (34.6mm) should work http://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/48549364

[Cupomeat]

That sucks. And tough to get in there to grind some metal off. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/ar15.gif)

[tomeric914]

For clarification, the 31 ft-lb torque spec in Eric's original post are correct for CVs which have six M8 bolts.

For CVs with four M10 bolts, the correct torque spec is 61 ft-lb.

A quick reference to the "good book" and let the torquing commence:
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-1110-1232676864.jpg)