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> Easy 5-Lug Conversion - 911 Running Gear, For High Power Applications...
Mark Henry
post Jan 19 2014, 11:45 PM
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Oh.... and a bit of axle porn. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Fully loaded and ready to go. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
The 928 end caps are just on there temporary to keep things clean.



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Mark Henry
post Jan 20 2014, 07:59 AM
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One question I have and I guess I should email Swayaway

Are they directional?
I notice that the one axle is marked "R" and the other one "L", both are only marked on one end.
I know left and right... I'm guessing left outside and right outside?

If you look at my axles the green tape is telling which end is marked, so I don't have to go digging in the new grease to find the marks later.
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Mark Henry
post Jan 20 2014, 01:17 PM
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Yes the Swayaway axles are directional. Got an reply from Swayaway.

The end stamp and the L/R must be placed on the correct side and facing out.
The axles do have a definite twist that must be correctly orientated.
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Qarl
post Apr 16 2014, 10:38 PM
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Mark,

What did you end up using for an end-cap for the G50 CVs?

What part fit?

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bdstone914
post Apr 17 2014, 06:25 PM
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Read through this thread and understand the options discussed.
I think I found another option. Using VW Bus CV joints (100 MM) on 914 axles with 911 100mm stub axles, 911 hubs and 911 output flanges. Tried a bus CV I had and it fits on the 914 axle. Bus CV's are about $50 each for Lobro and less modification is needed.
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76-914
post Apr 17 2014, 09:24 PM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)
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get off my lawn
post Apr 18 2014, 03:41 AM
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Huh uh huh uh, he said Schnorr.


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Mark Henry
post Apr 18 2014, 08:49 AM
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QUOTE(Qarl @ Apr 17 2014, 12:38 AM) *

Mark,

What did you end up using for an end-cap for the G50 CVs?

What part fit?


You can't use the end caps, although I did use the 928/G50 end caps in the pics to keep my uninstalled, cleaned, loaded and greased axle/CV assembles clean. I will remove the 928 end caps when I install the axles.

I cut my CV's for the factory grease seal/gaskets, but the CV material is hard as hell and I went through several carbide tool inserts. In retrospect I'd just leave the seals out and use a good sealant instead.
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0396
post Apr 18 2014, 08:53 AM
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Great info!
Thanks
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Larmo63
post Apr 18 2014, 09:12 AM
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Eric, what would the cost be of these shipped to SoCal........?
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bdstone914
post Apr 18 2014, 12:02 PM
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QUOTE(bdstone914 @ Apr 17 2014, 05:25 PM) *

Read through this thread and understand the options discussed.
I think I found another option. Using VW Bus CV joints (100 MM) on 914 axles with 911 100mm stub axles, 911 hubs and 911 output flanges. Tried a bus CV I had and it fits on the 914 axle. Bus CV's are about $50 each for Lobro and less modification is needed.


I checked out the use of VW Bus CV's a little more. They are the same dimensions as the 944 CV's. SirAndy has a thread on how to do this. It does fit the 914 axle but requires the axles to be machined. Looks like a slightly lower cost alternative to bigger CV's if you are going five lug.

The CV with grease is the 944.



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Mark Henry
post Nov 7 2014, 08:44 AM
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QUOTE(Harpo @ Sep 29 2013, 03:53 PM) *

QUOTE(tomeric914 @ Aug 21 2013, 06:52 PM) *

Adding to an already great thread...

Dimensions of a stock 914 transmission output flange



Overall length is 100mm

Total of 18 coarse splines


One of my new (to me) trans out put flanges is 1mm small here. I'm going to add a shim to get rid of the slop
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-13469-1380487966_thumb.jpg)


Wear can be an issue on these old stubs.
I had one of my stubs hard chromed and ground back to the proper size, cost me $70.

Correction I had this done to one of my wheel hubs, not the tranny output flange.
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restore2seater
post Feb 25 2015, 06:35 PM
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Mark, Paul, Eric or anyone able to verify this:

I have a couple axle flanges that have the 901332209/21 number stamped on them. But when I compare the measurements from the diagram in post 37 they don't match. The diameters of the 2 machined parts are the same. 35 mm and 45 mm. However the height of the 2 surfaces are different. The 22 mm is closer to 16 or 17 mm and the 36 mm is closer to 41 or 42 mm.
Makes me think they are for the 1969 sportomatic that Paul and Mark is referring to that look similar but have different dimensions than the 1970 part.

Question is: are the stamping numbers on the flanges irrelevant to what year the part is from?
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tomeric914
post Feb 15 2016, 10:22 AM
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Has anyone who has done this conversion had any issue with interference with the CV hub inside the trailing arm? I finally got a chance to install them last night. Everything was going all too well until the stub axle wouldn't turn. Loosen up the axle nut a little and it rotates metal on metal. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif)
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jmill
post Feb 15 2016, 11:54 AM
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QUOTE(PRS914-6 @ Feb 23 2013, 11:53 PM) *

Also, don't forget the 5mm spacer required for the stub axles. As you know, I prefer the hub centric style.


Do you have later style stub axles? No idea if that's the problem or where the spacer goes. I bought this setup from Eric several years ago and haven't installed it yet.

I'm still wondering if my transmission flanges are the correct ones. I'll have to check and see.
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horizontally-opposed
post Feb 15 2016, 12:03 PM
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QUOTE(Mark Henry @ Jan 20 2014, 11:17 AM) *

Yes the Swayaway axles are directional. Got an reply from Swayaway.

The end stamp and the L/R must be placed on the correct side and facing out.
The axles do have a definite twist that must be correctly orientated.



Once that tape is removed, is there any way to tell which axle is which?

Had my Sway-a-Ways redone in black when the CV boots failed.

Thanks!
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Mark Henry
post Feb 15 2016, 02:16 PM
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QUOTE(horizontally-opposed @ Feb 15 2016, 01:03 PM) *

QUOTE(Mark Henry @ Jan 20 2014, 11:17 AM) *

Yes the Swayaway axles are directional. Got an reply from Swayaway.

The end stamp and the L/R must be placed on the correct side and facing out.
The axles do have a definite twist that must be correctly orientated.



Once that tape is removed, is there any way to tell which axle is which?

Had my Sway-a-Ways redone in black when the CV boots failed.

Thanks!


The axle is stamped, marked "L" and the other one "R", both are marked only on one end. The part number is also marked on the same end.
The part number and stamp need to go towards the outside of the car and can only twist in the one direction.

So L is the drivers side (left), mark to the outside. Therefore R is the passanger side (right) mark to the outside.

That info is direct from Eric Andres at Sway-a-Way
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Mark Henry
post Feb 15 2016, 02:34 PM
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QUOTE(restore2seater @ Feb 25 2015, 07:35 PM) *

Mark, Paul, Eric or anyone able to verify this:

I have a couple axle flanges that have the 901332209/21 number stamped on them. But when I compare the measurements from the diagram in post 37 they don't match. The diameters of the 2 machined parts are the same. 35 mm and 45 mm. However the height of the 2 surfaces are different. The 22 mm is closer to 16 or 17 mm and the 36 mm is closer to 41 or 42 mm.
Makes me think they are for the 1969 sportomatic that Paul and Mark is referring to that look similar but have different dimensions than the 1970 part.

Question is: are the stamping numbers on the flanges irrelevant to what year the part is from?

I don't know other than VW/porsche stamping numbers can sometimes be whacked. Unless it's a 9 digit number that starts with a 901 or 911 it's not a known part number.

The best thing is to look at my post #77 for a visual comparison and Tomeric914 post #37 for the correct dimensions.
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PRS914-6
post Feb 15 2016, 03:22 PM
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The L or R is typically stamped on only one end. It's only a reference mark and each axle is identical when manufactured. But the axle should be installed so that the markings are on the inside flange. If it was originally installed with the mark on the outside, it should be reinstalled that way. If they have been used in low horsepower applications it's probably irrelevant. If they have been wound up like a pretzel many times and then get reversed or swapped side to side they can snap.
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Mark Henry
post Feb 15 2016, 03:44 PM
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My exact C&P email conversation with Eric Anders at Sway-a-Way

Axle orientation

3 messages

Mark H <***@gmail.com> Mon, Jan 20, 2014 at 9:19 AM
To: tech@swayaway.com

One quick question I have is are the axles directional?
I have part number 2420 that I bought direct from you last summer, they are new. I notice that the one axle is marked "L" and the other one "R", both are only marked on one end. I've heard they take a twist.

I know left and right... I'm guessing left outside and right outside?

Thanks
--
Cheers Mark
===============================================

Eric Andres <eric@swayaway.com> Mon, Jan 20, 2014 at 2:05 PM
To: Mark H <***@gmail.com>

The part number and stamp need to go towards the outside and can only twist in the one direction.

Eric Andres
818.700.9712, ext. 230

Sway-A-Way, Inc.
9667 Owensmouth Ave., Unit 100
Chatsworth, CA 91311
================================================

[Quoted text hidden]
Mark H <***@gmail.com> Mon, Jan 20, 2014 at 2:12 PM
To: Eric Andres <eric@swayaway.com>
That's what I thought, thanks
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