What's the best way to adhere your basket weave dash facing?, Just checking Options

[PeeGreen 914]

Got a new roll of basket weave to cover the front of my dash and want to know what is the best product for this (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[Todd Enlund]

Got a new roll of basket weave to cover the front of my dash and want to know what is the best product for this (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

3M 77

[mojorisen914]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)
IMO, 3M makes the best adhesive products.

[IronHillRestorations]

The most time consuming part of dash face replacement is cleaning off the old adhesive. Make sure you get off all the old adhesive. The best glue in the world won't hold to old gummy adhesive. BTDT, re-did it right.

[underthetire]

3M Super 90. Way stronger than the Super 77.

[r_towle]

The nice part is that the three pieces, the dash face, the radio cover, and the glove box cover all get removed for this process.
You need to remove all the switch bezels and heater stuff, but that is all that holds the metal pieces in place.
Glove box is screwed in from the rear.

You can then remove these pieces, remove the old vinyl and use a DA or random orbital sander to remove all the adhesive and old loose paint.
Re-paint and glue up the new piece while on a bench...LOADS easier than doing it in the car...

Clean both sides of the pieces because you will be slicing and bending over, then glueing the vinyl to the back also...so get it all clean and sanded before you start...on both sides.

RIch

[PanelBilly]

I use 77 and 90 for my business, but I think you should get a small can of plain old contact cement. It would be alot cheeper and if you do it right it sticks great. Brush a thin coat on BOTH surfaces and let it dry. In this weather give it 30-45 minutes. Line everything up, because when you put them togeather they are going to stick. There will be no sliding around. And don't get the water based contact cement. By the way, your going to need to let the car air out before you sit in it, don't let you kid sit in teh car for a day or so. Nasty fumes.

[PeeGreen 914]

The nice part is that the three pieces, the dash face, the radio cover, and the glove box cover all get removed for this process.
You need to remove all the switch bezels and heater stuff, but that is all that holds the metal pieces in place.
Glove box is screwed in from the rear.

You can then remove these pieces, remove the old vinyl and use a DA or random orbital sander to remove all the adhesive and old loose paint.
Re-paint and glue up the new piece while on a bench...LOADS easier than doing it in the car...

Clean both sides of the pieces because you will be slicing and bending over, then glueing the vinyl to the back also...so get it all clean and sanded before you start...on both sides.

RIch

Well, the nice thing about this is my car doesn't have anything in the dash.

[r_towle]

Its held on with double stick tape...get a putty knife behind it and peel it off..be gentle not to bend it.
The glove box it held on by the two screws that hold the handle on...take them off and you can peel off that piece also...it also uses doulbe sided tape...
Its kinda a beotch to get it off around the steering column...
If you need to leave that in place, bend the little piece on the dash face...it will be fine...bend it back later.


You will need to use new tape...its 30 year old crap.

RIch

[McMark]

Metal plates are held to the dash frame with double stick foam tape (available at my local auto paint supply shop). Vinyl is best held to the metal plates by upholstery grade adhesive which is not available 'over the counter', at least in CA.

[tag]

3M Super 90. Way stronger than the Super 77.

I'd use Super 90, it has a temperature rating of 200 degrees. I believe Super 77 is 110 degrees.

[ConeDodger]

Jon,
Why do you need to replace it? Mine appeared to be pulling up at the radio face area. I bought the new material from Appearance and Performance and had it on my to-do list and when McMark and I put in the new stereo system the new radio had a bigger flange and it pulled the puffy end by the radio back to where it belongs. Fixed.

By the way, anyone need dash face material? I think I paid $20 for it...

[PeeGreen 914]

I wouldn't say I need to cover it but my dash has nothing in there and I want to take and cover the entire panel so you don't see the holes.

[ConeDodger]

I wouldn't say I need to cover it but my dash has nothing in there and I want to take and cover the entire panel so you don't see the holes.

Oh hell... That's easy! Just look out the window and watch where you're going! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/chair.gif)

[PeeGreen 914]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/huh.gif)

[Eric_Shea]

3M did not work for me. Fresh vinyl and fresh metal. Peeling. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

[Katmanken]

If you don't clean the crap out of the surfaces, your adhesives may never work for you.

Here we go again, when you glue something, you are gluing to whatever is under it.

If you have a spotlessly clean layer of metal dash surface you glue to the metal dash surface.

If there is a spotlessly clean layer of paint, you are gluing to the paint.

If you have a 30 year old layer of oxidized glue on the dash, you are gluing to the oxidized glue.

If you have a spotlessly clean painted dash and you smear your greasy fingers on the dash, you glue to the dash and the grease.

Some joker sprays it with silicone adhesive, armor all, or fish oil impregnated rustoleum, you are in for fun.

Clean the crap out of the dash using 409 cleaner (no residue), laquer thinner, and alcohol. Each one cleans different problems. If it has that brown coating from dried former glue, get out the sandpaper, the cleaners and the NON RUSTOLEUM touchup paint.

Do the cleaning, and I guarantee it will stay. Oh yeah, new basketweave is essential.

Kennydoingitonceandnotoverandoverandoverandoverandoverand...