MY SDS EFI Install, Some details of my recent installation of a SDS EFI Options

[Larouex]

I have read a number of threads on the SDS, Fuel Only option and I am going to take the plunge, I am tired of fighting the old MPS and other issues.

I have a Crane Ignition setup, so I feel good about that part of the system.

I want to order the ultimate setup for FO, so this is my list...

$1021 EM-4D 4 cyl EFI system (no ignition control)
$100 optional fast idle
$70 MAP sensor 1 Bar Ab
$90 All Black TPS kit for CCW 5/16 D shaft
$21 optional head temp sensor for air cooled engine
$165 Mixture meter with heated sensor and boss

Does this look like the right list of parts? Anything you would add or omit?

TIA,
Larouex

[Larouex]

Added wide meter kit and costs summed up...

$299.00 PLX wideband meter kit
$1,021.00 EM-4D 4 cyl EFI system (no ignition control)
$100.00 optional fast idle
$70.00 MAP sensor 1 Bar Ab
$90.00 All Black TPS kit for CCW 5/16 D shaft
$21.00 optional head temp sensor for air cooled engine
$165.00 Mixture meter with heated sensor and boss
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$1,766.00

Larouex

[Joe Owensby]

Your estimates are pretty much correct, at least in noting what you need. I don't know the current prices. I am assuming you have all the other FI stuff from the 914. Make sure you have 4 good matched injectors. With your own control system it doesn't matter quite as much exactly which ones you have as long as the flow is in the ballpark and they are all matched in flow. You will tune it to match your motor configuration. You may need a few other things such as a couple of in line fuses, etc, but not much. Jake used to sell a complete set up , but I am not sure he still does.

The SDS only has an on-off air valve for fast idle. It works fine on my car. Idles about 1500 or so when cold. I have it set to turn off at 187F temperature on the head temp sensor. Thus, I have the fast idle until the engine warms up, then it drops to the set idle. I have cleaned out a stock aux air valve, and intend to try it to see if it gives the fast idle, and then gradually reduces the rpm as the engine warms up.

Starting the engine is fine for most all conditions I have noticed. No throttle opening is needed until started. Since I put the SDS system in and wrote the original post, I have updated the cam to one of Jake's FI cams, I think the 9550. Jake's cam for this type of FI engine is great. The car now runs perfectly over all RPM ranges, including idle. This includes back in the winter when it was cold outside, maybe down to 30 or so. JoeO

[Larouex]

Thanks Joe, the cam upgrade is good note to consider. I will do that when I pull the engine for paint.

I am placing my order in the morning.

Have you been tempted to go for the ignition and crankfire upgrade?

Larouex

[Mark Henry]

Is that the right TPS? take a look at my TB on the previous page. Send Ross that pic.
I might have that TPS and TB up for sale soon...

Crankfire rocks... installing it sucks, PITA but doable. you need to R&R the engine.

[hydroliftin]

FUEL INJECTORS:
" I fould new Bosch 0282150007 injectors that were originaly for a VW 411 or 412. "

I think this is actually Bosch 0280150007.

[ottox914]

Have a look at the SDS install thread linked to my sig- it includes the crank fire stuff. Not impossible, but pulling the motor helps. It could possibly be done in car, but I didn't want to spend that much time upside down and backwards working left handed in the dark. I needed to pull the motor for some other work on it anyway, so it all worked out in the end.

[Joe Owensby]

I had read somewhere that there wasn't too much to gain from the ignition upgrade, so I decided to go the simpler way and just use the FI portion- which was what I needed anyway. I have AC, and am using the AC pulley that most people use for a spark sensor so I would have had to consider other means of picking up a spark sensor. If I had it to do again, I would have considered buyingthe SDS with the ignition option, and then could use it if I were to later put in a Suby engine. Otto's write up on the complete unit is good.

Good luck. JoeO

[DNHunt]

Here's what I did to mount the SDS ignition pick up. I used a 1/8 inch piece of steel to mount the sensor. I machined slots so the sensor could be moved in or out from the center line of the crank and the distance from the magnets (important) could be adjusted by using washers ( I didn't need any. ). It is important to remember that you have to machine 1/8 off the corresponding mounts for the cooling shroud or it will not fit.



The wheel is and AC or air pump pulley that fits between the fan and the fan hub. The bright metal ring is a scribe line that is the distance the sensor is from the center line of the crank. The magnets are epoxied into the pulley.



To do it this way you definitely need the engine out. I had access to a lathe (for the scribe line in the pulley) and a mill ( for relieving the cooling shroud) which helped a lot.

Dave

[Joe Owensby]

Quick update. Now it is August 28, 2015. Car has been a daily driver for about 6 years. Absolutely no issues with anything, summer or winter. The only problem in 46,000 miles driven during this time was when the Mallory dizzy crapped out on me and I had to replace it with a standard dizzy. It has been so long since I have looked at anything on the FI system that I don't remember how to access it. I still carry the programmer just in case I have to troubleshoot anything. I have had it set for closed loop on the highway, and it has been running great all these years. I am now thinking about a Suby update so that I can get a better heater and defrost (even though I have SS heat exchangers in great shape). Also want about 100% more power. I am now trying to decide on what controller to use for a Suby.

[914forme]

Wow congratulations on a successful build (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)

Why not SDS? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

They do a lot of Subbies, an you have liked their product, know it semi well, and they can fill in your lack of knowledge on the Subaru side. Are there more convoluted systems out there, YES! Are you try to eke the last 10th of a HP out of a daily driver, most likely not. An NA Subaru 2.5 will be a 50% improvement on power if not more. A 3.3L will take you to 150% More Power!!! And you get into the turbos 200-300% More power. And that is with out going (IMG:style_emoticons/default/screwy.gif)

Or you could learn an entire new setup, nothing wrong with that.

I have been an SDS fan for years, and see no reason to go away from it, unless you want or need functionality it does not offer.

Things that could pull you away.
Launch Control
Staged Injection
Dual Fuel - Dino gas / E85
I know there is more, but Im not thinking you need multiple boost control, with methanol injection, and a NiOx Controller, and automatic shifting. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)

I would love SDS to run dual fuel, but then, that is not really an issue for me, it is a want.

You would need to upgrade your unit to run coils, and since you have a 4-cyl. unit I would stick with a 4-cyl. Subaru engine.

That being said, I am sure someone would be happy to buy your complete drive train and plug an play their car. Can't wait to see the build threads (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)

[Mark Henry]

I'm pretty sure I'm the first here to use SDS, even long before Jake was using them.

Although I like the SDS, it's better on a single TB configuration with not a too wild cam as it needs a good, strong and steady vacuum signal. It can be made to work on a ITB config, but systems like MS are more flexible with wild cams and ITB's.

If you want SDS and gobs of power I would go turbo subie. For an SDS turbo app you need the ignition as well, because you will want to retard your ignition curve at boost.

[Jeff911C]

I'm new to the 914 forum, but not new to modifying cars... I recently bought a 914 in 100000 pieces. It came with the SDS EM-4 efi system. The previous owner stated it ran great until he tore the car into a ton of pieces for welding up the hole from hell and the floor pans. So after he decided to ditch the project I purchased it and now I'm in the process of putting it back together. I've tried cranking the engine outside of the car to confirm the engine is good. I have everything (minus a green wire coming out of the tins on the right side of the engine) and it wont seem to ignite. I have great compression and it turns over freely but just wont seem to fire. I don't know if my MSD coil is bad or if my MSD box isn't getting the 12v it needs to power the coil. Any ideas would be awesome!

[Gplracer]

Does Jake still make engine rebuild kits?