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> 914 Starter, Starter Location
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post Feb 3 2009, 09:59 AM
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Hey. My name is Mike and im new here. Im only 17 but love cars and working on them. My dad owns a Porsche 914-4 1.8 and i want this car so bad but im about to go to college and he is saying if i dont have it running in 2 months hes going to sell it. This used to be my grandfathers and i would love to keep it in the family. it was fuel injected but my dad put a weber 32/36 dfav on it. its been sitting for about a year or so and when i try to start it it doesnt even make a sound. the lights go out when the key is turned to the start position and the stereo will stop. i wanna test the starter to see if thats the problem but i cant because i cant find it. can someone help me and tell me where the starter is?
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post Feb 8 2009, 05:21 PM
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well i got the new starter in and the same thing is still happening. lights go out when the key is turned to start. the starter turns when i jump the thread things with a screwdriver but when i try to jump from the wire to the positive i dont get anything. where do i look next?
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JoeSharp
post Feb 8 2009, 06:34 PM
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You need to in stall a relay in between the ignition wire and the starter. It's called a hot start relay. I don't have one on hand or a picture but what your doing is powering up a relay (a ford starter relay works perfectly) from the ignition wire and jumping from the positive side of the starter wires to the starter cylenoid. Giving it 12 volts like the screwdriver did. Anybody got a picture or a lead to a thread on Hot Start?
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Jeffs9146
post Feb 8 2009, 06:54 PM
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There is a wireing diagram in this thread

Starting Problem

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post Feb 9 2009, 12:25 AM
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thanks. where can i get one? and is it hard to install? i know it doesnt look like it but you never know. and will the hot start actually work on a car that isnt hot?
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post Feb 9 2009, 12:06 PM
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Hot start is just a saying that we use to describe when the car gets hot the starter solenoid stops functioning properly and won’t engage.

Any early Ford solenoid, 60's & 70's is what I always used but there are lots of them!

Basically, large wire in from power, large wire out to starter, ground wire to ground & ign wire hot switched to trigger
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ericread
post Feb 9 2009, 09:10 PM
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I just don't see this as a "hot start" problem. It seems to me that this may be more related to a starter key-switch issue.

The starter turns when the wires are jumped. So it's not really a voltage drop situation.

The starter doesn't engage when the positive wire is attached. I assume the "positive" wire is the wire from the key ignition. So it sems that thte key switch may be FUBAR.

Just a thought...

Eric
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post Feb 9 2009, 11:03 PM
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Maybe, he said he replaced the starter so that should have a new solenoid on it.

Disconnect the Yellow Wire and have someone look at the voltage on the ign wire when the key is fully engaged. That would tell you if the ign is not working.
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post Feb 9 2009, 11:09 PM
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LOAD TEST THE BATTERY BEFORE YOU GO ANY FURTHER!
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Jeffs9146
post Feb 10 2009, 12:25 AM
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I figured he already did that.....lesson 101.914 The first thing you do before attempting anything else!

But, he did say it turned over with the screwdriver trick!
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Spoke
post Feb 10 2009, 01:34 AM
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Help us help you. Please do these simple tests and let us know what your results are:

Connect your voltmeter (If you don't have one, buy one, you'll need it again and again) POS lead on the big red wire on the starter and connect the NEG lead on the chassis, not the engine. Measure 12V.

Connect the POS lead of your voltmeter to the little wire on the starter, and connect the NEG lead on the chassis. Turn the key to start and check the voltage. This should be 12V or so.

If previous voltage is below 12V, remove the little wire from the starter and measure the voltage of the little wire to chassis when key is turned to start. If this voltage is not 12V, there is a problem with wiring or your ignition switch.
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Dr. Roger
post Feb 10 2009, 01:47 AM
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QUOTE(Spoke @ Feb 9 2009, 11:34 PM) *

Help us help you. Please do these simple tests and let us know what your results are:

Connect your voltmeter (If you don't have one, buy one, you'll need it again and again) POS lead on the big red wire on the starter and connect the NEG lead on the chassis, not the engine. Measure 12V.

Connect the POS lead of your voltmeter to the little wire on the starter, and connect the NEG lead on the chassis. Turn the key to start and check the voltage. This should be 12V or so.

If previous voltage is below 12V, remove the little wire from the starter and measure the voltage of the little wire to chassis when key is turned to start. If this voltage is not 12V, there is a problem with wiring or your ignition switch.



Exactly. This can be a relatively easy fix. Just troubleshoot one step at a time.

Keep up the good work.
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post Feb 14 2009, 03:17 PM
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ok well while i was waiting for the starter i put in the new ignoition coil and nothing happened so i put in the old coil and now it makes like the worlds worst clicking noise when the battery in on the charger. i know the battery is dead for a fact now. but when it is on the charger it should still work right? any ideas on this one?
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Dr Evil
post Feb 14 2009, 03:54 PM
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Not exactly. If your battery will not hold a charge then when you hook it up to the charger you will only have a load on the charger and no juice. If you try to start it in charge mode with a dead battery you get the clicking you describe. If you try to start in with start assist on the charger, it will likely not work with a dead battery as the amps will go to the dead battery instead of to your starter.
New battery fisrt before you do any thing else.
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dlee6204
post Feb 14 2009, 04:31 PM
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I agree. Get a new battery. You won't be able to do anything with a dead battery. When I first got my current project, it came with an incorrect and aged battery. The first thing I did was get a correct new one and put in there before I started to diagnose anything.
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