GPR - 5 lug rear conversion kit., who does the machine shop work? Options

[Aaron Cox]

http://www.gprparts.com/specials/index.asp 1/3rd way down page
are all machined hubs the same? are they the early or late hubs? can i get my hubs machined at a shop and get the same reult?

thanks guys!

[SLITS]

Any machine shop can drill the rear hubs for a 5 lug pattern. Bolt circle is 130 mm.

The controversy rages on about early vs late hubs and their strength. Either will work.

Front rotors can be drilled and tapped - theyre was a place in HOT VW that would do any pattern for $59.00 including the rotor. I would suppose they could be studded also

or

You could buy a complete 911 front end too! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/bs.gif)

[Joe Bob]

Yor not gonna get early ones unless YOU supply them.

[415PB]

Mike, would the part number on the rear hubs tell me if they are early or late hubs? I have a set that have been drilled and the guy told me that they were early hubs.

Rod

[JFJ914]

That's a fair price. It has everything you will need (except the wheels and lug nuts). No one has ever reported a problem of breakage with the "late hubs" so go for it.

[seanery]

Aaron,
I just sent hubs and front rotors to Fat Performance to get done. I'll let you know what I think. They are drilling and pressing studs, too.

[jim912928]

415pb...you can tell if they are early by looking at where they were drilled for 5-lug. The early hubs had raised flat spots where the 5-lug studs would be. The late hubs do not have these raised flat spots. So, late hubs drilled the studs are pressed into the curved part and early hubs drilled the studs are pressed into flat raised areas. About the best I can explain it.

[415PB]

Thanks Jim, I think they are late hubs. I have them up for trade for a sway bar if anyone is interested. Aaron, let me know (stock sway would be fine).

Rod

[machina]

I had the drilled late hubs and converted to the early style hubs with the raised mounting surfaces.

For a racecar, I just felt better.

dr

[Dave_Darling]

I would strongly suggest that you not drill and tap either the fronts or the rears for the stock lug bolts. I feel that press-in studs, when properly done, are stronger than the screw-in bolts. Most particularly when the new threaded hole is in a thinner area, as some of them will be if you drill the later rears (or any of the fronts). It takes a little more machining--the area around the holes has to be spot-faced for the shoulder of the stud--but it's well worth it. Stronger (IMHO), and you don't have to mess with the bolts any more.

Screw-in studs, however, should not be used IMHO. I and several others I know have had bad experiences with them.

--DD

[machina]

I would strongly suggest that you not drill and tap either the fronts or the rears for the stock lug bolts.

Of course I meant I had the hubs drilled and then the studs pressed in. Sorry I wasn't clear.

dr

[Gint]

http://www.gprparts.com/specials/index.asp 1/3rd way down page

If I had a 4 cylinder car and wanted a cost effective way to go to 5 lug, I'd pop for that setup in a heartbeat. That's a decent price when you consider that you get all new rotors with it. Rotors alone are worth over $200.

EDIT: I see that it only includes rear rotors. It's still a good price to minimize hassle cause wheel bearings are $80.

This post has been edited by Gint: Feb 22 2004, 05:25 PM

[Dave_Darling]

I don't know for a fact who does the machining for them, but I do know that Rich Johnson has done at least some for them in the past.

--DD